Car: 99 EJ6
Engine: 99 B20Z2

Partial throttle up to 4k rpm, fuel delivery seems ok. After 4k, full lean on my autometer A/F, no power, hesitation, etc.

WOT at any rpm, full lean, etc.

I swapped my stock B20Z intake manifold this weekend for a 96 LS manifold.

I'm running my old D-series injectors (the B20 units are smaller & shorter, weird). The injectors had sat in my parents garage for 2 years. Could be dirty, clogged, etc. I'm also using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, very much like the B&M unit. (same shape design, O-ring included).

I tested the the vacuum side of the regulator (sucked on it), and it had a slow draw of air (leak). That's probably where the problem is.

But also, I'm not running any kind of spacer in between the manifold studs & the fuel rail. The rail is mounted directly onto the manifold, metal to metal. Is this wrong ? The fitment seems ok, I would think there would be slack between the injectors and the rail if I put any kind of spacer in there.

Here a pic for reference. # 6 is the spacer I'm referring to.



Any ideas ? I've already purchased a stock fpr, should be here leter this week.

 

bump

 

I'm running a B20B VTEC setup in my 1997 EK Hatch w/ D-series fuel pump, injectors & fuel rail. I combined the fuel rail with a OEM ITR FPR. I'm using a AEBS Intake Manifold with a Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket. Yes, I added a couple of spacers between the rail and the manifold.

Hmm... if you're not sure if there is a leak, buy a can of carb cleaner and spray around the injectors and fuel rail. If there is a leak your car will choke a little depending on how badly its leaking.

I hope this fixes the problem.

 

your running lean because god doesnt like cars with 2 cams


sohc biatch!!!!!!!!!!

j/k , free bump

 

Joke:

Why do D-series cams ********** so much ?


Because they're always single !

 

hahaha . i like that

 

Auto meter should read rich at WOT, and bounce back and forth between rich and lean below that since it is just a voltometer that measures the O2 signal, and since it is constantly reading only an area figure, you can't get a true reading from it. I wouldn't try any tuning procedures based on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Auto meter should read rich at WOT, and bounce back and forth between rich and lean below that since it is just a voltometer that measures the O2 signal, and since it is constantly reading only an area figure, you can't get a true reading from it. I wouldn't try any tuning procedures based on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, I'm not using it to tune. But it's confirming the fact that I'm not getting any fuel. At WOT, the gauge reads full lean, and nothing but full lean (no movement). I can tell it's not getting fuel because it's making no power.

My motor was running fine before the manifold swap. So the problem lies with either the injectors, or the regulator (both of which were not on the previous setup). I found an old B16A fpr lying around, so I'll swap it on in the morning and see how it runs.

 

i have 92 dx with d15b vtec. my autometer a/f gauge started doing the exact same thing. so i kept an eye on it. after a while it started reading more and more lean all the time, so i tried replacing my fpr, injectors, fuel rail, used a fuel system cleaner swapped to a gsr fuel pump, fuel filter, then an o2. all still the same. hmm, whats left, the gauge was going bad and finaly took a **** on me and wouldnt read any more at all. So, took i back and they replaced it for free. works perfectly now. not saying that its the gauge. but it was in my case.