Car is dying everytime I disengage the Clutch
I have some major problems on my hands. Evertime I shift and disengage the clutch while driving, my rpm will dip below normal idle and just die out. Sometimes it will dip and return to normal, but lately it just dies.
My compression is super low at 125-145 across all cylinders after swapping in a different block (b18c).
Background:
Drag turbo
450cc w/VAFC
TPS sensor when engine is off is .40 closed and 4.2 wot.
TPS sensor when engine is on is 0!!!
There's been post similiar to this before, but there was no solution. Like so:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=626932
I'm going to check for vacuum leaks first, then might do a valve adjustment, then back to TPS.
help!
My compression is super low at 125-145 across all cylinders after swapping in a different block (b18c).
Background:
Drag turbo
450cc w/VAFC
TPS sensor when engine is off is .40 closed and 4.2 wot.
TPS sensor when engine is on is 0!!!
There's been post similiar to this before, but there was no solution. Like so:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=626932
I'm going to check for vacuum leaks first, then might do a valve adjustment, then back to TPS.
help!
I have the same problem but its only when I come to a stop sometimes. Ive already changed the plugs and wires. And I had my battery and alternator tested and they are fine. Im getting it checked out tomorrow so Ill let ya know if I find anything out.
the iac isn't opening quick enough? try cleaning it out...
the throttle plate has carbon built up? try cleaning out the throttle...
those would be the easiest to check first....
you said the tps voltage is at 0 with the engine running? are you reading that through a scanner or multimeter at the tps?
the throttle plate has carbon built up? try cleaning out the throttle...
those would be the easiest to check first....
you said the tps voltage is at 0 with the engine running? are you reading that through a scanner or multimeter at the tps?
I cleaned out the throttle body, butterfly, iacv previously and have also checked the battery and altenator which are fine.
I checked the tps sensor with a DMM. Seems to only happen after I drive the car for a while.
I checked the tps sensor with a DMM. Seems to only happen after I drive the car for a while.
i have the exact same problem with my ek4..
except that mine's kinda worse...
cos the engine skips sometimes when i drive and when u're not in gear, the engine will rev up and down by itself if u step on the accelerator constantly...
so far, i've checked for vacuum leak..
cleaned the IAC..
re-set the ecu..
and cleaned the throttle body...
but it still happens...
need help as well!!!...
might get the IAC changed to see how it goes..
will let u know how it goes...
except that mine's kinda worse...
cos the engine skips sometimes when i drive and when u're not in gear, the engine will rev up and down by itself if u step on the accelerator constantly...
so far, i've checked for vacuum leak..
cleaned the IAC..
re-set the ecu..
and cleaned the throttle body...
but it still happens...
need help as well!!!...
might get the IAC changed to see how it goes..
will let u know how it goes...
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Cleaned the iacv...I'm going to change the cap and rotor, then back to finding vacuum leaks. I hear a buzzing noise from the intake manifold when the car's adjusting the idle. The car also will not hold a steady rpm range when I hold the throttle open. sucks...
Trac226...looks like we're on the same track huh... 
got my iacv cleaned as well but i've checked for vacuum leaks and couldnt find any...
now i'm waiting for a new iacv from honda...
will let u know if it solves the problem..
joe

got my iacv cleaned as well but i've checked for vacuum leaks and couldnt find any...
now i'm waiting for a new iacv from honda...
will let u know if it solves the problem..
joe
did u check ur iacv first cuz the way to check it easy is to unplug it while the car is warmed up and see if the idle changes i dont think thats the prob cuz if it was then the car wouldnt be stumbling through the rpm range just idle i just had a coil/ignitor problem and my car was doin almost the same thing as urs id just replace them and see if that works cuz ignition demons are a constant problem on all hondas
Well, changed the cap/rotor and I got a little better response from ignition, less misfires, but I'm still stumbling when I hold the throttle constant...for example, I'll be on the highway and can accelerate, but once I hold at a constant speed, I'll start to misfire and my rpms will drop as I hold the gas pedal constant.
Time to find a spare distributor I can test out. Thanks guys, keep up the responses.
edit: I did chech the iacv and it will start to die if I unplug it.
Time to find a spare distributor I can test out. Thanks guys, keep up the responses.
edit: I did chech the iacv and it will start to die if I unplug it.
I would say it has more to do with your compression. If you can spare the time, I would get new rings because without proper compression you won't burn fuel and thus cause you to lose power. OR it might not be in your rings but in your valves that you're losing compression in... Do a leak down test to find out.
if it's coil/ignitor problem..
will the rev skips all the time on driving mode or only once in a while...
cos my car is only having that problem once in a while while i'm on the accelerator...
but it happens most when i drive the car hard...
anyways..where is the coil/ignitor?...
which part of the engine does this belong to?...injector???
lemme know...
thanks..
will the rev skips all the time on driving mode or only once in a while...
cos my car is only having that problem once in a while while i'm on the accelerator...
but it happens most when i drive the car hard...
anyways..where is the coil/ignitor?...
which part of the engine does this belong to?...injector???
lemme know...
thanks..
the coil and ignitor are really tricky they work sometimes but **** up other times so u could be driving and experience the problem once in a while thats what happend to me o and usually the ignitor and coil go out at the same time or one causes the other to go out so u might as well get them both
if ur car starts to die with ur iacv unplugged it is working the way it should
if ur car starts to die with ur iacv unplugged it is working the way it should
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivichatch92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the coil and ignitor are really tricky they work sometimes but **** up other times so u could be driving and experience the problem once in a while thats what happend to me o and usually the ignitor and coil go out at the same time or one causes the other to go out so u might as well get them both
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's what I've been experiencing...sometimes I lose spark all over and sometimes its not too bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if ur car starts to die with ur iacv unplugged it is working the way it should</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tested it that way and it does cut out when I unplug it, so I think its fine. But I'm definately losing spark.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's what I've been experiencing...sometimes I lose spark all over and sometimes its not too bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if ur car starts to die with ur iacv unplugged it is working the way it should</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tested it that way and it does cut out when I unplug it, so I think its fine. But I'm definately losing spark.
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