How big of a rotor fits under a 16" Spoon sw388 's on a DC2?
I did some spirited mountain driving this weekend, and found my x-drilled brembo rotors in stock size to run out after just a few minutes.......how big can I go under them? 12", 13"? Any suggestions. Thanks.
I plan on taking this thing out to Buttonwillow/Thunderhill/Laguna Seca soon also!
I plan on taking this thing out to Buttonwillow/Thunderhill/Laguna Seca soon also!
I have a 12" OEM brake setup with 16" tires on my DC2R suspension. Using an OEM solution, this is the largest you can do . . .
HTH
HTH
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slow down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that's what he was talking about ... slowing down!
What I think RJ. and Jeff mean is that you might do well by using better fluid and pads.
Check the FAQ above wrt "brakes".
I think that's what he was talking about ... slowing down!
What I think RJ. and Jeff mean is that you might do well by using better fluid and pads.
Check the FAQ above wrt "brakes".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did some spirited mountain driving this weekend, and found my x-drilled brembo rotors in stock size to run out after just a few minutes.......how big </TD></TR></TABLE>
Your rotors didn't "run out" it was most likely the pads that got a bit overcooked. Hopefully you seasoned your rotors and bedded in your pads properly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can I go under them? 12", 13"? Any suggestions. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on taking this thing out to Buttonwillow/Thunderhill/Laguna Seca soon also!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great!
Then take a bit of time and search some topics here on pads and fluids, get your car into good safe running order and take it to the track. It will be an eye opening experience to say the least. And please be safe on public streets.
Best of luck.
Your rotors didn't "run out" it was most likely the pads that got a bit overcooked. Hopefully you seasoned your rotors and bedded in your pads properly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can I go under them? 12", 13"? Any suggestions. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on taking this thing out to Buttonwillow/Thunderhill/Laguna Seca soon also!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great!
Then take a bit of time and search some topics here on pads and fluids, get your car into good safe running order and take it to the track. It will be an eye opening experience to say the least. And please be safe on public streets.
Best of luck.
I have done SCCA driving schools in my Mustang, and autocrossed in my Accord. Thanks for the tips.
I bought the car with the brake/suspension combo on it. I am boosted, 300+ whp, soon to be over 450whp.
For example, driving in the mountains behind my friends EVO, I would go 15mph to 90mph to 20 mph on short straights repeatedly. We stopped frequenty at my request to cool my brakes. They were smoking pretty good the last time.
My set-up is Tokiko blues and Skunk coilovers, stock rate I assume.... Suspension techniques rear sway bar. I am going to check them out this weekend.
I had already purchased some stainless lines, and was about to upgrade the rear rotors. I have been watching group buys on rotors and pads. But since I was going to do the rest of the brakes, I was looking into bigger fronts, fastbrakes, Willwood, etc.
I am also looking at the Tien SS coilovers.
Thanks for the input.
I bought the car with the brake/suspension combo on it. I am boosted, 300+ whp, soon to be over 450whp.
For example, driving in the mountains behind my friends EVO, I would go 15mph to 90mph to 20 mph on short straights repeatedly. We stopped frequenty at my request to cool my brakes. They were smoking pretty good the last time.
My set-up is Tokiko blues and Skunk coilovers, stock rate I assume.... Suspension techniques rear sway bar. I am going to check them out this weekend.
I had already purchased some stainless lines, and was about to upgrade the rear rotors. I have been watching group buys on rotors and pads. But since I was going to do the rest of the brakes, I was looking into bigger fronts, fastbrakes, Willwood, etc.
I am also looking at the Tien SS coilovers.
Thanks for the input.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your rotors didn't "run out" it was most likely the pads that got a bit overcooked. Hopefully you seasoned your rotors and bedded in your pads properly.
You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid.
Great!
Then take a bit of time and search some topics here on pads and fluids, get your car into good safe running order and take it to the track. It will be an eye opening experience to say the least. And please be safe on public streets.
Best of luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
Your rotors didn't "run out" it was most likely the pads that got a bit overcooked. Hopefully you seasoned your rotors and bedded in your pads properly.
You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid.
Great!
Then take a bit of time and search some topics here on pads and fluids, get your car into good safe running order and take it to the track. It will be an eye opening experience to say the least. And please be safe on public streets.
Best of luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
*shakes head* Silly t00l, should have kept your mouth shut instead blowing hot air out of your ***. Put on your flame suit, the backdraft is about to own you...
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>*shakes head* Silly t00l, should have kept your mouth shut instead blowing hot air out of your ***. Put on your flame suit, the backdraft is about to own you...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*shakes head* Silly t00l, should have kept your mouth shut instead blowing hot air out of your ***. Put on your flame suit, the backdraft is about to own you...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<---Sits back and makes some popcorn
<---Sits back and makes some popcorn
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
Stock brakes won't work. Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.
Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
And to the thread starter - what is a bigger rotor going to do with stock calipers? Not much, other than increase rotational mass and push that weight farther away from the center of the hub.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>
BuT hE'z g0T d3m m4d suBw0oferZ in d4 b4cK. LiK3 5 0f tH3m.
A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect. If thats still not enough, pick up a set of 4-pot Wilwoods and you'll stop on a dime.
3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>BuT hE'z g0T d3m m4d suBw0oferZ in d4 b4cK. LiK3 5 0f tH3m.

A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect. If thats still not enough, pick up a set of 4-pot Wilwoods and you'll stop on a dime.
The 12" setup I am referring to uses a larger caliper and rotor, basically the same front brakes as the NA2 NSX. Look here for more info:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=840241
Jeff
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=840241
Jeff
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSR +
Added weight from turbo kit
All: AC, PS, ABS
A **** load of Dynamat
Speaker box w/ sub & amp
3050lbs? my car weighs less than 2600 with driver. ****, it might be 2550 or less when the A/C and some of the PS stuff comes out. or less. Are we talking about the same car??????????????
</TD></TR></TABLE>GSR +
Added weight from turbo kit
All: AC, PS, ABS
A **** load of Dynamat
Speaker box w/ sub & amp
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*shakes head* Silly t00l, should have kept your mouth shut instead blowing hot air out of your ***. Put on your flame suit, the backdraft is about to own you...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry, but for what Reilly plans on doing w/ the car, he is going to need more than "upgraded pads & fluid".
haha
*shakes head* Silly t00l, should have kept your mouth shut instead blowing hot air out of your ***. Put on your flame suit, the backdraft is about to own you...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry, but for what Reilly plans on doing w/ the car, he is going to need more than "upgraded pads & fluid".
haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Speaker box w/ sub & amp</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BuT hE'z g0T d3m m4d suBw0oferZ in d4 b4cK. LiK3 5 0f tH3m.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone atleast buy me a beer or something.
Speaker box w/ sub & amp</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BuT hE'z g0T d3m m4d suBw0oferZ in d4 b4cK. LiK3 5 0f tH3m.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone atleast buy me a beer or something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm sorry, but for what Reilly plans on doing w/ the car, he is going to need more than "upgraded pads & fluid".
haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And what exactly would those plans include? I'm curious as to how much reasearch you have done on using larger rotors and why they are better than upgraded pads/calipers/fluid.
I'm sorry, but for what Reilly plans on doing w/ the car, he is going to need more than "upgraded pads & fluid".
haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>And what exactly would those plans include? I'm curious as to how much reasearch you have done on using larger rotors and why they are better than upgraded pads/calipers/fluid.
What exactly are you talking about?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock brakes won't work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why? Mine and many others work more than fine. I'm the king of brake issues and the stock rotors with good pads and fluid are more than enough on the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much does the driver weigh? My car weighed in at 2,560 lbs in stock form with a 1/2 tank of gas and various crap. Even with me as fat as I am 2,800 lbs is the max and still no issues on the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Been there, did it numerous times as well as more than a few owners here and that will attest to no adverse issues other than eventually finding the need to upgrade to more agressive pads and higher boiling temp DOT 3 fluid, but Not rotors.
Please elaborate, because I think you're a bit confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock brakes won't work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why? Mine and many others work more than fine. I'm the king of brake issues and the stock rotors with good pads and fluid are more than enough on the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Especially when the car weighs 3050lbs with driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How much does the driver weigh? My car weighed in at 2,560 lbs in stock form with a 1/2 tank of gas and various crap. Even with me as fat as I am 2,800 lbs is the max and still no issues on the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's do some 100+ to 15mph stops numurous times with stock sized brakes on a car that weighs as much as his Integra, then lets see how those upgraded pads and fluid does.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Been there, did it numerous times as well as more than a few owners here and that will attest to no adverse issues other than eventually finding the need to upgrade to more agressive pads and higher boiling temp DOT 3 fluid, but Not rotors.
Please elaborate, because I think you're a bit confused.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And what exactly would those plans include? I'm curious as to how much reasearch you have done on using larger rotors and why they are better than upgraded pads/calipers/fluid. </TD></TR></TABLE>
None whatsoever. Never said that I have.
He plans on road racing it. I would think that road racing would be a little harder on the brakes than a quick mountain drive. I was stating that I think it is going to take more than upgraded pads and fluid
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"
Is this not what was said? I noticed you also mentioned "wilwood" calipers, but I was not arguing that. I am saying that from the way his brakes were giving up on a short mountain run, he is going to need more than pads and fluid.
Jesus christ. hahah
And what exactly would those plans include? I'm curious as to how much reasearch you have done on using larger rotors and why they are better than upgraded pads/calipers/fluid. </TD></TR></TABLE>
None whatsoever. Never said that I have.
He plans on road racing it. I would think that road racing would be a little harder on the brakes than a quick mountain drive. I was stating that I think it is going to take more than upgraded pads and fluid
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"
Is this not what was said? I noticed you also mentioned "wilwood" calipers, but I was not arguing that. I am saying that from the way his brakes were giving up on a short mountain run, he is going to need more than pads and fluid.
Jesus christ. hahah
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GSR +
Added weight from turbo kit
All: AC, PS, ABS
A **** load of Dynamat
Speaker box w/ sub & amp</TD></TR></TABLE>
And how much does all this junk actually weigh?
Or are you just speculating? Cause it really sounds like you are just guesstimating with accurate weights like "A **** load of Dynamat."
And last time I saw someone at the track that came with subs and whatnot, he removed them/it, solved the issue of it sliding all over the place, as well if it ain't secured, it won't pass tech.
GSR +
Added weight from turbo kit
All: AC, PS, ABS
A **** load of Dynamat
Speaker box w/ sub & amp</TD></TR></TABLE>
And how much does all this junk actually weigh?
Or are you just speculating? Cause it really sounds like you are just guesstimating with accurate weights like "A **** load of Dynamat."
And last time I saw someone at the track that came with subs and whatnot, he removed them/it, solved the issue of it sliding all over the place, as well if it ain't secured, it won't pass tech.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He plans on road racing it. I would think that road racing would be a little harder on the brakes than a quick mountain drive. I was stating that I think it is going to take more than upgraded pads and fluid
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"</TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said was 100% correct.
I am having zero issues with the stock braking system. Just "pads and fluid" on my *stock* ITR. Several road racers are in the same boat. However... he said
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am boosted, 300+ whp, soon to be over 450whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which means he's going to need more thermal capacity in the system. Period. Bigger/heavier rotors is the only answer here.
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"</TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said was 100% correct.
I am having zero issues with the stock braking system. Just "pads and fluid" on my *stock* ITR. Several road racers are in the same boat. However... he said
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reilly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am boosted, 300+ whp, soon to be over 450whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which means he's going to need more thermal capacity in the system. Period. Bigger/heavier rotors is the only answer here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NickQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
None whatsoever. Never said that I have.
He plans on road racing it. I would think that road racing would be a little harder on the brakes than a quick mountain drive. I was stating that I think it is going to take more than upgraded pads and fluid
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"
Is this not what was said? I noticed you also mentioned "wilwood" calipers, but I was not arguing that. I am saying that from the way his brakes were giving up on a short mountain run, he is going to need more than pads and fluid.
Jesus christ. hahah
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Simple question.
Do you personally know the original poster or his car and or setup and driving habits? Do you know what stretch of road he was on when his "rotor's" supposedly gave out?
Are you speaking for him?
Better yet, go a step further;
if you are so concerned with him setting his car up for road racing, howsabout listing the class and rules for said club and class as pertaining to brake upgrades because That is what dictates what you can and can't do regardless of If you Think you need anything or not.
If you're setting the car up for "roadracing" then I'd assume that alot of useless weight like the subs and shitload of dynomat will be ditched in the process of setting the car up to be competitive so your 3,000 lb weight issue is thus solved.
What class and club allows FI'd Integras to race again?
None whatsoever. Never said that I have.
He plans on road racing it. I would think that road racing would be a little harder on the brakes than a quick mountain drive. I was stating that I think it is going to take more than upgraded pads and fluid
'You don't need larger rotors. You need some seat time on a real track and maybe some pads and fluid"
"A set of Cobalt pads and some Motul RBF600 fluid should be perfect"
Is this not what was said? I noticed you also mentioned "wilwood" calipers, but I was not arguing that. I am saying that from the way his brakes were giving up on a short mountain run, he is going to need more than pads and fluid.
Jesus christ. hahah
</TD></TR></TABLE>Simple question.
Do you personally know the original poster or his car and or setup and driving habits? Do you know what stretch of road he was on when his "rotor's" supposedly gave out?
Are you speaking for him?
Better yet, go a step further;
if you are so concerned with him setting his car up for road racing, howsabout listing the class and rules for said club and class as pertaining to brake upgrades because That is what dictates what you can and can't do regardless of If you Think you need anything or not.
If you're setting the car up for "roadracing" then I'd assume that alot of useless weight like the subs and shitload of dynomat will be ditched in the process of setting the car up to be competitive so your 3,000 lb weight issue is thus solved.
What class and club allows FI'd Integras to race again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And how much does all this junk actually weigh?
Or are you just speculating? Cause it really sounds like you are just guestimating with accurate weights like "A **** load of Dynamat."
And last time I saw someone at the track that came with subs and whatnot, he removed them/it, solved the issue of it sliding all over the place, as well if it ain't secured, it won't pass tech.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would have to go to reilly to see how much it all "actually" weighs, but I have seen for myself him individual weighing the things going into his car. You asked why it was so heavy, I told you what was in the car. I don't see a problem
And as far as taking everything out at the track, that is true. Bu he is not only going to use them on the track. He might use them on, say for instance, another mountain run. In a situation where he is going to want to keep the sub box in the car to listen to while driving.
And how much does all this junk actually weigh?
Or are you just speculating? Cause it really sounds like you are just guestimating with accurate weights like "A **** load of Dynamat."
And last time I saw someone at the track that came with subs and whatnot, he removed them/it, solved the issue of it sliding all over the place, as well if it ain't secured, it won't pass tech.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would have to go to reilly to see how much it all "actually" weighs, but I have seen for myself him individual weighing the things going into his car. You asked why it was so heavy, I told you what was in the car. I don't see a problem
And as far as taking everything out at the track, that is true. Bu he is not only going to use them on the track. He might use them on, say for instance, another mountain run. In a situation where he is going to want to keep the sub box in the car to listen to while driving.



