Ok, so I know you guys are tired of answering these damn LS/VTEC questions...but I'm a detail person and I like hearing what you guys have to say, you've done it, I haven't and your word is gold to me...so please humor my questions and know I've researched.

I have purchased a B18B block and a USDM B16 head. Since I'm broke right now and I'm trying to do all this for 3g's I'm asking you guys for help. Here's the deal...it's a daily driven EK hatch I'm looking for 200hp NA in the end and I really have no reason to EVER rev over 9k, for that matter over 8k.

What I THINK I need...

Stock USDM B16 head/top end assembly (already purchased)
Stock USDM B18B block with STOCK INTERNALS (already purchased)
Golden Eagle oil line kit (planned purchase)
Golden Eagle Block Girdle kit (planned purchase)
USDM B16 transmission and linkage (next purchase)

What I THINK I need to buy for the engine...

ARP rod bolts
GSR/ITR TB
New bearings any and all (I'm confused on what to get here).
IM either stock B16 or Skunk2/AEBS
CTR pistons standard bore (using stock LS rods, ARP rod bolts and stock LS balanced/polished crank)

For now the head will have to remain stock but I will work on it soon. Either RS Machine or Portflow...either make me drool.

To my question...Do any of you feel like what I have listed here is what I should do to this engine to make it reliable, relatively fast (until head work is done) and would be fine as a daily driver. It will see some street action, but like I said, not above 8k. Do you guys feel like the parts I have listed is what I need to purchase? Did I leave any out or do you have better suggestions of what parts to buy?

Thanks again for taking the time to read this and answer one more LSVTEC question.

-Chris

 

you don't need a girdle
itr manifold
itr pistons
honda bearings

 

TREVER,

Which bearings do I use since I'm using the stock LS rods...I had read to use GSR bearings...opinion?

-Chris

 

do not use gsr rod bearings on LS rods ... use LS, CRV or B16a bearings only... very dangerous.

greg

 

ls headgasket

 

Get yourself a brand new LS timing belt too (factory is the best bang for your buck!)
-Replace all your gaskets
-Check condition of bottom end
-Look into getting new rod bolts
-vtec ecu!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do not use gsr rod bearings on LS rods ... use LS, CRV or B16a bearings only... very dangerous.

greg</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even if the rods are notched for gsr bearings?

http://www.Fast-turbo.com - LS/V Oil Line kit.. 45-50 great for budget setups.

No girdle needed, if anything.. a gsr girdle.

ARP rod bolts
TB- get a over bore tb.. 65mm
New bearings any and all... Gsr for all, get your rods notched.
IM - AEBS
Topline USDM ITR or P30 pistons.(using stock LS rods, ARP rod bolts and stock LS balanced/polished crank)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :thumbsdown: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Even if the rods are notched for gsr bearings?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm, and if you know rod is perfectly centered then yeah i guess its fine but i never did it, i just use the right rod/bearing/crank.

greg

 

my setup sounds similiar to what you have going on. b18b w/ b17 head/ctr's/and Shotpeeed ls rods. I rev to 9k daily. my rotating assembly is balanced to 10k. I would recommend shotpeening the rods.Also go with a vtec oil pump and timing belt. With an LS oil pump you may starve your motor in the higher rpm's as they arent made to flow so much oil as a vtec pump is. With my b17 head,oem ls headgasket, and ctr's...i have a compression ratio of 12.3:1. So make sure you or someone you know can tune. IF you are curious of my setup its in my sig.

 

OEM Bearings....The BEST you can get.

 

You said OEM bearings right...but which ones? Do I get the GSR, B16, or LS bearings? Anyone got a bottom line on that one?

-Chris

 

I using LS bearings. They were there from the factory so i keep it that way. BTW DEFINETLY get ARP Rod Bolts, which i think you mentioned.

 

I will most definitely get the ARP bolts...LS bearings are letting you spin to 8-9k and you haven't had a problem? I had read that it was better to notch for GSR bearings, if it's not worth the trouble then f-it you know? I am not disagreeing with you, in fact I really appreciate your help, I was just curious why everyone else was saying to use B16/B18C bearings...anyone?

-Chris

 

my popinion since you are on a budget buy the ff:

aebs manifold $165
acl bearing kit for LS $99 (get it at trackmasters)(best bearings in the market)
70mm throttle body $310 (get at an-r.com free shipping)
arp rod bolts is a must $?? not sure
aluminum act prolite flywheel $200-250
exedy stage 1 with 3puck clutch (thick disk)$300(good for 300 whp.)
ctr pistons standard $280 with rings (jhpusa.com)(go o.s only if walls are deeply scratched)

Head just go type-r valves and and buy a good set of springs and retainers (portflow) (skunk2)(EF-1) cus your heads life depeds on that and invest later on the cams like RS cams, Dynamic stage 1, skunk stage 2, EF-1 M23,jun 3s (my favorite)... and a decent porting is good enough like dnr performance is pretty competetive or alaniz or protflow

if block in good condition dont even balance and polish it cus theyre already balanced from the factory

invest on a good header im only using jg edelbrock proflow (its good enough but if you buy like dtr fab headers its a 1000 bucks but it will give you extra 10-12 whp.(this is where you need to work for it)Plus with a girdle you are safe to rev upto 9500-9800 rpm thats where my powerband is...

that should do it under 3g's cus i spent 3500 but you already have the important stuff already

I made 210@wheels 143 torque

 

Thanks very much for your insight...I appreciate it. I meant to tell you guys the clutch is a ACT street disc with street light flywheel.

-Chris

 

what stage clutch rod bolts r 35 @ lightnig motorsports

 

Putting a Block girdle in a LS is no easy taste, and unnecessary... It will cost you 4-600 just for the machine work to put the girdle in

get some PR3 b16 pistons, and some type r cams...

 

why would i cost 4-600 dollars don't buy and oem girdle get aftermarket endyn, z-10 etc like 200-250 get a gsr oil pan,pick up, windage tray like 150 total cost is like 350 junkyard have lots of oilpans and windage tray u need arp mainstuds to put girdle they are like 80 new the cost to install girdle gets high if u get the girdle doweled because then u must have block line honed to make it fit

 

why would i cost 4-600 dollars don't buy and oem girdle get aftermarket endyn, z-10 etc like 200-250 get a gsr oil pan,pick up, windage tray like 150 total cost is like 350 junkyard have lots of oilpans and windage tray u need arp mainstuds to put girdle they are like 80 new the cost to install girdle gets high if u get the girdle doweled because then u must have block line honed to make it fit i just did it w/o line honing

 

You can use gsr rod bearings only if the rods are machined to have them fitted. Gsr rod bearings have a moly coating that promotes better surface lubricaton and friction properties for longevity. This process was introduced by Honda in F1 and they've used it ever since on gsr/itr rod bearings. However, in your situation, this would just be an extra expense. You will be fine just using LS rod bearings.

-Brandon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Allmotordc2integ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get yourself a brand new LS timing belt too (factory is the best bang for your buck!)
-Replace all your gaskets
-Check condition of bottom end
-Look into getting new rod bolts
-vtec ecu!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Replace your waterpump with a b16 pump and then use the gsr/itr timing belt.

-Brandon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Allmotordc2integ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get yourself a brand new LS timing belt too (factory is the best bang for your buck!)
-Replace all your gaskets
-Check condition of bottom end
-Look into getting new rod bolts
-vtec ecu!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Replace your waterpump with a b16 pump and then use the gsr/itr timing belt.

-Brandon

 

There are a lot of skeptics on ls/vtec's. If you want the real info, talk to someone who has built them before or owns one. Only thing done to my motor that helps me rev that high is its balanced to 10k as i said above. I just rebuilt it over the winter and when i pulled it apart everything is in mint condition inside. Bearings were all perfect. Rods perfect, and the rod bolts were still up to torque specs. It saw 9k at least once EVERY DAY. If not more, and one time on a misshift it saw 11k. In all honesty revving is over rated. Everyone thinks the RPM's are what make the power which in a sense is true. But if you aint makin power that high, dont rev to it. Only reason i rev that high is my cams still pull to that high. But you seem to be rather conservative about it. For your application you dont need to go through the trouble of getting the **** notched to fit gsr/itr bearings. Go with OEM Honda LS bearings and you will be good to go. Any other questions just let me know...

 

PM sent...Thanks for the info, I appreciate someone who KNOWS what's going on. I will most definitely keep you posted.

Thanks to everyone for helping me...keep the responses coming please...any info is better than what I started with...thanks all

-Chris

 

use the gmb waterpump 19 teeth on ebay 44.00 i got 1 from speedymotorsports.com same company great stuff don't get the b16 waterpump timingbelt would have 2 be b16 then the gmb19 teeth will fit a gsr or an itr timing belt