i think i cooked my ignitor last night, a friend of mine running an LS/VTEC DA has done this a number of times. i've heard a Blaster external coil will remedy this?

my question is, should i just bend over and shell out 117 CDN for a new ignitor? or will a used one suffice? if so.... for how long??

does the external coil really fix the problem?

i didnt do this swap to drive like a wuss.. my car see's 8K+ frequently, and i'd like to NOT be stuck on the side of the road again

any help would kickass.... TIA

 

Yo..

just wondering, my car is having the weird jumpy tach problem; the rev needle jumps around as it pleases with no relation to the actual engine revs..

any idea what this may be?

I gotta figure this shizz out before i go to aircare in a week or so..

Runnin' waaaay too rich still too...

 

Honda ignitors are notorious for going bad. You could swap in a used one that is known to be good. But, you won't know for sure how long it will last you. Unfortunately, new ones are expensive. An external coil won't help you from frying your ignitors. I've heard some people say that aftermarket ignition stuff will accelerate the "wear" on ignitors. I think OE coils are fine, unless you have F/I or N2O. IMO, suck it up and get a new one. HTH.

cyber13

 

i was sorta expecting to hear that... hehe i guess i'll just pick one up from honda.

they've got a CRX Si Ignitor in stock, i assume thats the correct part for the B16A distributor?

anyways thanx for the help dude

 

Maz: my tach did the same thing a few years back... i took my car to honda and they had it back to me in 10 minutes.. no charge *shocked*

anyways i think it had something to do with the distributor?

i wish i knew what they did... heh, coz im pretty sure its gonna happen with the new motor, knowing my luck

 

Yup the Si one will work, as will a 90-91 Teg one. The bouncy tach problems are signs of an ignitor that could be going bad.

cyber13

 

Speak of the Devil, eh? My cap and rotor went to **** last weekend....... caused alot of headaches.

 

Yup, fried my ignitor a few months back. When the engine warmed up, the idle fluctuated for a few seconds then the engine died. Another common problem with Hondas are the seizing up of distributor bearings. Personally i haven't experienced it (yet :crook , but can one get away by just replacing the bearings? 2nd hand B16a dizzies are sooo expensive these days.

 

just finished replacing my ignitor... turns out i had the black OKI ignitor, wich had a recall on it, replaced it with the brown NEC one, so hopefully that will be the end of that

 

When you guys had to repladce you ignitor, did you have to remove the distrubitor ? If so was it just held by those three bolts ?


[Modified by TRuST, 5:56 PM 12/18/2001]

 

i believe the tach jumping thing is caused by a bad cap and rotor....my car did that before and i replaced the cap and rotor and the tach returned to normal...let me know what happens

 

The only time I blew the igniters is when I went to buy an aftermarket distributor cap and rotor. This happened two times, once on my 1.5 DX motor, and once my B16a 1st gen. I put that Kragen cap on and it blew the cap and igniter the next day. Sorry *** crap.

RULE OF THUMB - Always get a HONDA OEM distributor cap and rotor.

 

bring this back from the dead........

my car took a dump last night, i left a stopsign driving very casual shifted into 2nd and my car died. and won;t start. need some help think its the ignitor??? im ganna check the valve timming to make sure it didn;tr jump a tooth, check to see if their is spark, check the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and also if their is spark then ill have to check compression to see if i droped a valve. any insite would be great. b16a 1g in a 91 integra.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXB16aJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> RULE OF THUMB - Always get a HONDA OEM distributor cap and rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive never had a problem with aftermarket stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crXBoy69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive never had a problem with aftermarket stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here...i dont see the relation.

 

I've tried aftermarket (GP Soresen- advanced autoparts brand) cap and rotor. The rotor button didn't fit too well on the shaft and wiggled around like none other.

Placed in a honda rotor button and no more play in the assembly...

Go honda parts... I'll never purchase another aftermarket cap/rotor again!

 

my ignitor went out in the beginning of august. i couldn't figure out what was wrong. i thought it was the coil, ecu, fuel, etc, etc...finally i bought a whole distributor off someone and just swapped the ignitors. found that that was the problem.

my car went out again 2 days ago. right before it did, there was a loud back fire: POP! then my car died, paid $80 again for towing. and $80 for another used distributor. sucks

you would think after all this time for making aftermarket parts for honda and turbo kits and swaps and yada yada yada.....no one could make a better ignitor?

 

ha i thought i was the only one!!!.. ive gone threw 2 coils sofar .. just make sure you use the lub they DONT give you when you buy a new one .. i didnt on the last 2 and finally did no problems sofar(knocks on wood) and its been quite a while!!

and make sure you get a warrany and reciept

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HyperREV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i cooked my ignitor last night, a friend of mine running an LS/VTEC DA has done this a number of times. i've heard a Blaster external coil will remedy this?

my question is, should i just bend over and shell out 117 CDN for a new ignitor? or will a used one suffice? if so.... for how long??

does the external coil really fix the problem?

i didnt do this swap to drive like a wuss.. my car see's 8K+ frequently, and i'd like to NOT be stuck on the side of the road again &lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0"&gt;

any help would kickass.... TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dizzy on my b16a broke 100 miles after the motor swap. I was in the same situation, stuck on the side of the road, very frustrated to say the least.

 

quick ? Which cap and rotor are you guys using for a 1gen b16 dizzy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by antone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick ? Which cap and rotor are you guys using for a 1gen b16 dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>


If I'm not mistaken cap and rotor from a 90 teg will work

 

I think I need a new ignitor too, I experience fluttering of the tach needle from 3k to 4k with no relation to the actual rpms/speed.

Also, my idle goes so low it seems as if its going to die, but then pulls itself back up a little then drops back down, but we are talking 50-75rpms changing, it settles at 550rpm and sometimes drops a little and picks back up a little, I HIGHLY DOUBT its a vacuum leak.

Need to find a new ignitor