I need to get a new clutch for to match up with the new 8lb ACT flywheel, I am not sure what to get that will be good for Auto-X and perhaps roadracing later. With 6 choices and mix match pressure plates I am really confused. The shop that I will get it from do not have experience with autocross only Drag so they do not know what to recommend.

Any recommendations and why?

Thank You

 

OEM... or if you're going ACT the street disc.

 

I guess I have to ask why you wish to change your clutch. What about it is proving inadequate?

Unless you're increasing your engine torque dramatically (30% or more) your stock clutch will have sufficient clampload.

Clutches make almost no difference in autocrossing - except making you illegal for certain classes (Stock, Street touring).

IMO, unless your engine requires it, you don't want an "extreme" clutch. All they will do is cause extreme chatter and extreme discomfort in your left leg from modulating a heavy pedal.

 

We are running the HC5-HDSS kit in our Civic with a HC legal D16Z6 motor.

This kit includes these components:
H-023 - Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
HSD802S - Performance Street Disc
RB820 - Release Bearing
PB1002 - Pilot Bearing
AT20 - Alignment Tool
Torque Capacity: 223 ft/lbs.

We have had very good results with this set up over the last two plus years of racing, etc. Since it isn't using a 'solid' hub, it is as easy to use as the stock unit.

BTW, the difference over a stock clutch is noticeable. There is a more positive/faster engagement.

 

this is my 2nd season AutoX'ing, about 30 or so races and over 20K miles, 210whp motor, using ACT street & strip disc....still pulling strong and no signs of slipping...I think I paid less than $100 just for the disc itself.

 

Where clutches are concerned, I tend to be a "Keep it stock" proponent. As an OEM clutch development engineer, we go through great pains to make sure the clutch in the vehicle is the best balance of performance, durability, and comfort. The clutches are designed so that the minimum production specification for torque capacity is 130% of max engine torque (and with most clutches, it actually goes up). They are designed to accept significant amount of heat input and retain torque capacity. And they are developed for optimal comfort and drivability.

Obviously, there are times where a performance aftermarket clutch becomes a necessity. Major modification to the engine. A severe increase in duty cycle. But most "autocrossers" looking for the best "autocrossing clutch" don't need, or likely want, anything too crazy:

Ceramic/cera-metallic/kevlar facings = chatter (chatter sucks.)
"Unsprung" hub = transmission noise
High clampload pressure plate = more shock to the rest of the driveline, not to mention high pedal effort

..and on and on...

So - my answer, based on what I can surmise from the original poster, would be to "Keep it stock" or "OEM equivalent."

 

thanks for all the replies.

I just rebuilt my D16A6 block, the clutch is pretty bad, the flywheel and pressure plate have grooves in it so I figured might as well go all new. I got the ACT 8lb Flywheel and was hoping to use a (OEM comparable) Exedy clutch I bought a few months ago from some vendor on Ebay, but it turns out it is the wrong clutch even though the invoice says it is the right one. Anyways can't return it, in the end I need to buy a new clutch.

I'm mostly worried about feel of it, don't want anythign too stiff. I already called DNR for the price on a full face ACT street disc, will see how much they say....

 

personally, i think my ACT street setup with HD pressure plate is too stiff. pretty much everyone else who drives my car feels so too. you get used to it of course, but i honestly feel better when im driving someone elses car.

GRM had an article about choosing the right clutch. their conclusion, as well as many other road racers i have talked with, is basically OEM will do just fine. go to something else when and if you have the need. i cannot percieve any benefit of my stiffer clutch while i was racing either autox or road racing since youre really not timed off the line. but i didnt do standing starts as NASA does, and my autox region has a decent starting strip and speed reducing corner before you trip the timer anyway.



Modified by Tyson at 7:04 PM 4/20/2004

 

I'm thinking about going with an ACT replacement, the stock one feels so soft. Its really hard to tell when the clutch has engaged, even with driving shoes on. I've botched a few heel-toe downshifts this way, its just really frustrating.

I know karl had good luck with his, and that dude breaks everything.

 

i dont think having a harder plate has helped me determine the friction point. perhaps ACT upgraded discs with stiffer marcels would offer a more direct feel tho.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking about going with an ACT replacement, the stock one feels so soft. Its really hard to tell when the clutch has engaged, even with driving shoes on. I've botched a few heel-toe downshifts this way, its just really frustrating.

I know karl had good luck with his, and that dude breaks everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've put a act hdss in my ep civic. it had alot better feel. you can feel the engaugement point and just stiff enough.