Im new to acuras, and have always done my own work, so can anyone give me tips or some advise on changing the belt and waterpump?? like what i might run into and to set everything back up the way it should be. thanks

 

It's pretty much as straight forward as can be. Set it to TDC and go from there. It may help to get two 5mm pin punches to help align the cams properly. There is a hole in the cam cap closest to the cam gears that allows you to insert the pin punch in order to hold the cams steady at TDC. Replacing the water pump is nothing hard, though it is a bit hard to access.

 

well maybe so ,but i work on domestic and have never touched foreign. im not stupid but when i get number 1 tdc, then the cams are already where they should be for me to put the punches in??? than tear it down and change the belt and pump? no specaisl tools and nothing to be aware of?? thansk for your help .

 

The pin punches aren't necessary, they just help a bit when putting everything back together. Remove the valve cover and you'll see the holes on the cam cap closest to the timing belt.

 

the only trouble that everybody complains about is
the crank pulley bolt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only trouble that everybody complains about is
the crank pulley bolt
</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a biatch to get off...impact gun sometimes doesnt help...good luck man

 

Mine wasn't that hard to get off, although I was using a crank holder that I made. I think they're torqued to 130lb/ft.

 

while i have this thing torn down, is there anything i need to do maintnace wise while im there, or should add performance wise while im playing with this. its bone stock, and runs good for 120,000 miles, but would would like a little more go from it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by getdrugtoday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while i have this thing torn down, is there anything i need to do maintnace wise while im there, or should add performance wise while im playing with this. its bone stock, and runs good for 120,000 miles, but would would like a little more go from it</TD></TR></TABLE>
A couple of things to be aware of.
Buy or borrow the HELMS shop maual for your year and model car. ( it really helps)
Borrow the honda crank pulley tool. (In my opinion it's a necessity)
Remember which water pump bolts are which, they are diferent lengths.
Have a floor jack ready, to hold up the engine after the driver side mount is broken loose

 

well, that shouldnt be that hard, just take alot of time. thanks for your help guys. so i guess theres nothing i can do performance wise while i have that side torn down huh??

 

get a helms manual!

 

If you know what your doing it isnt that hard, myself and a friend changed the timing belt and water pump on my teg at the weekend, took about 3 hours adding time for messing about into it. Once you have the crank pulley of which was the hardest part then its fairly straight forward from then on in. Theres now much performance wise that can be done if you dont want to start pulling apart the head to do the cams/valve train etc. Although you could fit under drive pulleys if you really wanted to but i'd say they'll only net maybe 3 or 4 bhp but do make a nice whirring noise on lift off (so i've heard)

 

its very straight forward I just changed mine on my 99 GS over the weekend. I would say defently use the 5mm punches they are a big help especially if your belt is very worn. the cam gears can move back a little when you remove the belt. Also as noted before make sure to mark the water pump bolts because of the different sizes. Also once I had my new belt on I took the butt end of the hammer and pushed up with a lot of force on the tensioner and had my buddy tighten it up. Good luck!

 

do the crank main seal and cam seals. its cheep inshurance.