This is my first motor build up so help me out a little here. I'm sending my CTR slugs and my stock B16a rods to the machine shop tomorrow. The rods need the mod to fit the wrist pin area I know..... plus I am having the rods nitrated for extra strength.

My old man tells me that I should also have them "reconditioned". Which he tells me, is when they cut a piece of the end cap off and re-machine the hole for the crand bearings perfectly round. I haven't heard of this at all on the honda websites. Is this something I sould do???

 

no.. not unless they are really fucked up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MAUCH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is my first motor build up so help me out a little here. I'm sending my CTR slugs and my stock B16a rods to the machine shop tomorrow. The rods need the mod to fit the wrist pin area I know..... plus I am having the rods nitrated for extra strength.

My old man tells me that I should also have them "reconditioned". Which he tells me, is when they cut a piece of the end cap off and re-machine the hole for the crand bearings perfectly round. I haven't heard of this at all on the honda websites. Is this something I sould do???</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, bring them some ARP rod bolts (only like $40 from Lightning Motorsports) while your at it. Get the stronger rod bolts pressed in and get the rods resized.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the rods resized. </TD></TR></TABLE> I think this is what your pops was talking about.

 

by the time you pay for the ARP bolts, which necessitate resizing, due to their higher tq spec, shaving the rods or pistons to fit eachother, and nitride coating them (some people also have them re-shot-peened to relieve stress-risers in the beams and increase tesile strength), i'd say get a decent set of new aftermarket rods and just have Rocket cheaply mod your PCT (CTR) slugs/pins to accept circlips. then you'll have fully-floated wrist pins, all of the benefits of running new rods, as well as those of running OEM pistons, and you'll likely have spent less, or gotten more for your $.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just have Rocket cheaply mod your PCT (CTR) slugs/pins to accept circlips. </TD></TR></TABLE>I wonder how much he charges for this?

BTW if he's going that far, might as well get some forged pistons while he's at it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder how much he charges for this?

BTW if he's going that far, might as well get some forged pistons while he's at it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That will be a great idea. The most expensive part in building a motor is the labor anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder how much he charges for this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any machine shop can do it, Im assuming thats where he takes it to get done. Just cut out the middle man and have it done yourself

 

Reconditioning the rod is a good idea since the roundness of the big end is key to engine longevity.

Most machine shops are equipped to recondition rods and machine shop guys are meticulous by nature so you should be be good.

I wouldn't spend money on nitridin the rod though.


Modified by Rocket at 2:17 AM 4/24/2004