I plan on getting some steel 13x7 or 14x7 race wheels (Aero or King spun steel one) for the car. E Prepared class only allows up to 7" for the integra, so I am mearly just curious on how 8" wide tires would benefit handling. I know that there is more contact area with the 8" if you go to a wider tire, but what tire range would fit 7" wheels for the most part anyways. 205 tires are usually the minimum width on 7" wheels so 215 or 225 tires would be more of the middle size range. And those require offset to clear the suspension links. I can't imagine going with 8" wide tire with anything more than the smaller width tire ranges - even then you are looking at changing the suspension geometry a lot to allow for 8" wide wheels.

If basically you wanted to keep the stock suspension geometry the same, would 8" serve any benefit at all? Since they are heavier and need a noticable offset to fit, I'd assume they would only be a benefit if you were going to redo the integra's suspension geometry setup.

For competition legal DOT tires, should you go low profile/stiffer side walls or go "ballooney"? I'd imagine "Balloney" would give you the grip while "low and stiffer" would give you the carving capabilities at expense of ultimate grip.

Just curious and want to see what yall think on this issue.

 

Hey Vracer111,

For what it's worth, I went from using 6.5" to 7.5" wheels mid-way through the season (using 225's) and noticed a big difference with turn-in and cornering. The extra width really helped maintain sidewall integrity. If I could fit 8" wheels on my ITR I would, but I'm very happy nonetheless with the 7.5" set up.

 

For E-prepared, if you want to be really fast, you won't even look at the DOT tires. Start looking into used racing slicks (get the 13" wheels if possible).

You will run something like a 20x9.5x13 tire
http://www.rsracing.com/rscatalog/as...rt-rrslick.asp

I have been told going from a DOT tire to a real race slick is just like going from a street tire to a DOT race tire.

If I were running DOT tires, I would go for low profile myself.

As for a wider wheel, for the weight of the integra, you can probably "over tire" it as it is with 7" rims. Get a tire too wide and you never heat it up. Sometimes in an autocross a skinnier tire will grip better because it will heat up faster (particularly in the winter).

Scott

 

Since EP allows cantilever slicks, you can probably get about the same (if not wider) contact patch as I can with my 9 inch wheels for SP. I have no idea how cantilever slicks "behave" since I've never raced them, but I've heard they're pretty much superior to any DOT race tire (when it's dry).

You wanna go fast in EP? My suggestion is research Tom Lombardo's EP Civic (also driven by John Thomas) and do exactly what they did. then you can ask JT to drive it for you if you want to see how fast it can go.

 

Good luck beating his EP Civic. That freaking thing is fast. I lined up against him in a ProSolo (I was in my SM Type R) and we launched about even, but as soon as we hit the first slalom he was gone.

Even the HART guys can't come within a second of him, and they are running some crazy parts in their EP Civics.

 

Thanks all for the info! For the first set of tire I would like to go with DOT tires though as it will be an entirely different car once I've finished building it - some 300-400lbs lighter, a few more horsepower extra, and as good handling as possible. I'm going to use next season as a test session for the car. Once comfortable at the limits with the car on DOTs and competent enough to go with race slicks on the Slicks will go...


Here's what I'd like to do (and what I have done) with the integra:

Current rundown on the car:
-Completely gutted (meaning dash out and everything -save for the steering column and wiring harnesses) and sitting on jackstands.
-side trim on body removed (door trim still there)
-Wipers, antenna, and mirrors removed, all front lights except for main headlights removed.
-front bumper assembly center section cut-out. (will probably take the bumper apart to see what can be lightened on it....) Also use the opening left by front signal removal for air ducts...
-Previous taken out a long time ago - the entire A/C system and cruise control

Things left to take out:
-Mechanical parts of the ABS system
-sunroof (moonroof)
-gas tank (replace with 5 gallon fuel cell in wheel well)
-Door glass and associated braces, motors, etc....
-battery (replace with lighter gell racing battery near center of passenger side door -that nice mounting place between the floor seat rail braces....)

Interior work to be done:
-Install 6-pt Autopower rollcage
-Install 4point harness
-buy and install race seat
-mount instrument gauge pod (original one)
-cut out center tunnel around the shifter to allow a cover plate to be installed (problem needing correction from my auto-to-manual tansmission conversion)

Chassis/Suspension work:
-replace all bushings
-get GC coils with Koni yellows to replace current setup. (And try and figure out how to mount the Koni's upside down.)
-Get really stiff rear roll bar (22-25mm)
-buy and install Neuspeed front tower brace (once ABS is removed)

Tranny work to be done:
-find a tightly geared tranny to replace current stock one (GSR or Civic SI)
-install a Quaiffe LSD
-install ACT Clutch (street performance) and pressure plate (HD)

Engine work/etc... to be done:
-Rebuild the b18A or find a B18B1 in good shape
-install a lightened flywheel
-Maybe find a manual ECU, main harness, and Intake manifold (currently still running on the auto ones - and still might keep it as is)
-Energy Suspension motormounts.


P.S. - this car isn't street legal anymore, and won't ever be again, so It's being stripped to the bone. Nothing without a racing function will be on the car. every, nut and bolt that doesn't need to be on the car wont. and all the stud on the interior will be cutoff. I'm fanatical about the weight of the car and aboulutely nothing will be overlooked. Every lightbulb will be removed, the door's inside wall will be cutout, the hood bracing will be cut off and removed for the most part (and hinges removed), all sound deadening material will be removed, all window gaskets removed, and the rear spoiler is comming off. After all the 6-point cage is going to add some weight back in!

In the future I plan on having a CF hood and polycarbonite front and rear windows...but those are really luxury items that I can't afford for some time to come.


[Modified by Vracer111, 9:15 PM 10/29/2001]

 

If you use cantilevers and you start to wonder why your doors aren't shuting like they once did or everything starts to rattle, don't say that we didn't warn ya! However, I've only seen once Prepared car get extensive street use, and that dude is just nuts anyhow

 

>>Even the HART guys can't come within a second of him, and they are running some crazy parts in their EP Civics.<<

That really confuses me. I've gotten a pretty thorough run-down on the Lombardo car from John himself. Nothing all that spectacular, especially compared to the HART cars. The only thing I found unusual was (at the time) they were running Goodyears on one end and Hoosiers on the other. Can't remember which end, but they felt it was a faster combination. But the numbers don't add up. A Civic just should not be faster than a F-mod car!