i was looking around on http://www.dh-racing.com and they have a package deal with a stock PnP intake manifold and throttle body guaranteeing 25 WHP. (not too sure about that though)

and in their types to select they have a b18C and b18a

i have a 1994 B18B (RS) non-vtec and i was wondering what the difference would be and if it would work on my b18b

thanks - check it out - they have some other packages for example one with the stock ported intake manifold and crank pulley that gained 52 whp on a SOCH vtec

Brad

 

ttt

 

my friend is getting this package on his SOHC non-VTEC so ill see what kind of gains he gets from the dyno to see if its a worthy mod for me

will keep you guys informed

 

someone's shoveling some big heaps of BS with those claims...

 

B18B manifold actually has slightly larger (OD) runners than the B18A manifold. I believe that runner length and plenum size is basically the same. When porting, neither manifold should be advantageous over the other.

HTH

Adam

 

ttt

 

anyone?

 

ttt - would it be worth getting this package with my mods if it shows decent gains on my friends civic? or

 

Not with your mods, nah, don't buy it. And don't count on 50 hp from a manifold and throttle body. The best gain you'll see is out of cams and higher compression pistons, THEN you can dip into the manifold and TB and see gains.

 

would you guys suggest doing cams and high compression pistons in my engine with 187k?? is that too risky with the higher compression?

also im waiting to see the gains on my friends civic and ill get back to you guys once he gets it dyno tuned

 

Considering I have never seen ITB's even make 25 whp on a stock non-vtec head, and that is the *ideal* Throttlebody/intake manifold set up, I doubt you're going to see anything that big with that set unless you're pretty built and possibly pushing a lot of air in there (boosting)

 

ttt once again

 

If you add new pistons, you'll need to get the block worked and machined anyway. When you put it all back together with new gaskets, you have a 0 mile engine, fyi. You don't have to worry about high miles.

 

anyone else have opinoions? how much $$ would it cost to essentally go from 187k to a "0 mile engine"?

thanks for the replys

 

57 whp with anything short of nitrous or a turbo is probably just plain wrong. someone got owned.

 

ttt

 

up up again

 

ttt

 

Any one got an easy way to get off the crankshaft pulley?

 

moroso makes a crank pulley removing tool summitracing.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bullet7987 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any one got an easy way to get off the crankshaft pulley?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Way to hi-jack a thread. Go do a search, if you can't find your answer, post a thread of your own.

Integra21: My advice to you is, with 187K miles on the clock, if you want to see how healthy your engine is right now, do a compression/leakdown test. That will give you an idea of you engine is still healthy or on it's way out the door.

Next, before you jump into something like an intake manifold, you've gotta match it with where your powerband is going to be, when the intake valve opens, etc.

DH-Racing DID gain 25+ wheel horsepower on a B16A with their intake manifold. Now, what you must understand is, it wasn't just bolted on and Voila! there was 25 more horses to the wheels and the car ran great. they TUNED and TUNED that setup. The ignition timing, fuel pressure, cam timing, etc. etc etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jedubz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considering I have never seen ITB's even make 25 whp on a stock non-vtec head, and that is the *ideal* Throttlebody/intake manifold set up, I doubt you're going to see anything that big with that set unless you're pretty built and possibly pushing a lot of air in there (boosting)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You cannot compare ITBs with an Intake Manifold. An intake manifold has a "ramming" effect, whereas the ITBs rely on the pistons dropping down below the atmospheric level and allowing air in. That is a basic description of how they work anyways.

Point being, there is way more to it than just buy a piece like that an expecting it to perform at its fullest without it working properly with the rest of your setup, and some tuning knowledge.