Modest Turbo Buildup: Which is more important
I'm in the middle of having a shop do a motor swap for me. An H23a with a full exhaust (sans header), port-polish work on the head, and a forged crank.
He knows that I want this engine for boost, and has done evereything accordingly for that. I am moving to Florida and will be doing the rest of the work there. For obvious reasons the mechanic wants to do as much work as I can afford. I'm about at the end of my funds, but I still have 2 options left.
I can either: Resleeve (get rid of the FRM), and go with a thicker turbo head gasket to drop my compression (done the right way, with longer headstuds).
or
Replace my OEM clutch and flywheel with about 100,000 miles on them. Still in working order.
Which should be done first/is easiest to do now? If I go with the clutch/flywheel, which would handle modest boost (no more than .5 bar) the best?
He knows that I want this engine for boost, and has done evereything accordingly for that. I am moving to Florida and will be doing the rest of the work there. For obvious reasons the mechanic wants to do as much work as I can afford. I'm about at the end of my funds, but I still have 2 options left.
I can either: Resleeve (get rid of the FRM), and go with a thicker turbo head gasket to drop my compression (done the right way, with longer headstuds).
or
Replace my OEM clutch and flywheel with about 100,000 miles on them. Still in working order.
Which should be done first/is easiest to do now? If I go with the clutch/flywheel, which would handle modest boost (no more than .5 bar) the best?
You will need to resleeve to go w/ forged pistons. Without resleeving, you will be limited to no more than 10psi to be safe.
If you are going to boost regardless, then replace the clutch first. The stock clutch WILL give out when you start boosting.
If you are going to boost regardless, then replace the clutch first. The stock clutch WILL give out when you start boosting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freemantle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can either: Resleeve (get rid of the FRM), and go with a thicker turbo head gasket to drop my compression (done the right way, with longer headstuds). </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not a fan of using thicker head gaskets. If you want to lower your compression, do it right and get the appropriate pistons. Considering that sleeving is one of your options, I would assume that you are getting new pistons for this option, anyway, right? No point in sleeving if you aren't getting forged pistons.
I'm not a fan of using thicker head gaskets. If you want to lower your compression, do it right and get the appropriate pistons. Considering that sleeving is one of your options, I would assume that you are getting new pistons for this option, anyway, right? No point in sleeving if you aren't getting forged pistons.
1) Resleeve with forged pistons/rods.
2) By the time you get everything built and assembled, then broken in...you 'should' have saved up enough for a nice clutch.
2) By the time you get everything built and assembled, then broken in...you 'should' have saved up enough for a nice clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freemantle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm in the middle of having a shop do a motor swap for me. An H23a with a full exhaust (sans header), port-polish work on the head, and a forged crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>So does this mean you are using a differenct crank or something? Stock H cranks are already forged.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattmob
Forced Induction
1
May 11, 2005 09:39 AM



