hey guys, I'm at the point where I spent WAY too much money and it's time to do things myself... god damn boost spike got me which could have been prevented if my boost controller was connected, but thats another topic...


Update:

The head is now off... the gasket looks fine along with the deck and cylinder wall, but I'm not sure if I'm inspecting things right... would my next step be to take the piston out to inspect the rings?

my last compression numbers were: 175, 90, 180, 180
cyl #3 is the problem











here's the head surface, cylinder #3 is second one from right in this pic:



Please let me know what you think? I'll take any pics that will help, just let me know...

thanks for any input!


Modified by turbosi03 at 1:17 PM 4/3/2004


Modified by turbosi03 at 1:19 PM 4/3/2004


Modified by turbosi03 at 1:19 PM 4/3/2004


Modified by turbosi03 at 1:43 PM 4/3/2004

 

Dustin,
you are indeed brave but certainly following in the footsteps of many of us.

You are only looking to remove the head.
If you were smart (well you are but let me rephrase and say thinking ahead), you would have marked your timing belt and cam gears and crank position with a crayon or marker so that you may when you put things back together, just slip the belt back over the gears in its original position and be sure your timing wasn't affected. I doubt you thought to do that and its not an easy task anyway with the engine in place or at least be prepared to cut up your knuckles doing it.

In any case, you leave the cam gears on. There is no need to remove them.
you take off the cam holders and the camshaft with the gear lifts out. You dont touch the valve adjusters but when you are all done, I advise setting them anyway since its a 15min job to do.

 

you can also leave the intake manifold on and save yourself one more gasket to buy, i did this and it wasn't that hard at all to take the head off with the manifold still attached

 

thanks Torin! I did not think of marking the timming belts with the gears. I thought the mark on the crank pulley along with the cam gear marks would alow me to line up everything in order to put the belt back on the way it was...??

is this not true? or are you just telling me it will be a pain in the ***?

 

no. you will have to reset your entire timing mechanism to be absolutely sure. ie set piston to TDC along with the cams at zero (TDC marks lined up) and crank pulley mark zero'd.

You'll be able to do this without loosening the timing belt adjuster if you take your time and carefully slip the timing belt back on the cam gears a little at a time but for the time it takes, i recommend just loosening the timing belt adjuster and doing it as it says in the helms. no different than if you were changing a timing belt.

 

or if he was really smart( i'll also say thinking ahead) he would have did a search and he would have found this thread....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=810161

 

nice link paybac4223, don't have to be the regular HT wise *** though... I always do searches before I post but a lot of times I get crap for results. a lot of the threads I find having simular questions to mine with replies such as "do a search"...

anyway, thanks for the replies... I now have the answers I was looking for. the head is ready to be removed with the exception of the intake bracket bolts I over looked. now I know to get the bolt from under the car thanks to paybac's searching skills





with any luck (which hasn't hit me yet) the only problem will be the head gasket. lets see what I find...

 

LOL....sorry bro i usually am not a wise azz.... i was just giving you a hard time in good nature hope the write up helps....

 

bump for help... updates at top...

 

its your ringlands