I have had a problem with missing at idle on my 97 GSR for over 2 years now. A couple of years ago I had an Acura dealer look at it, and he said that the previous owner had probably never adjusted the valves, and that they had gotten too tight. He said it probably needed a valve job, but he wouldn't know for sure till they tore the head apart, which would be at least $1,000. He also told me that all the damage had been done, and as look as I kept the valves adjusted, or it didn't get any worse, I could drive it like it was. Now 2 years later it still hasn't gotten any worse. I took it to a local mechanic a few weeks later, and he said he was sure it needed a valve job, but he would only charge $600.

I checked my compression back in the fall, and the compression on 3 cylinders was over 200, I think either the 2nd or 3rd cylinder had low compression, only 165.

So I know my next step is to do a leakdown test to verify that the GSR is losing compression at the valves. If the leakdown test verifies this, is it better to get the valve job done, or simply replace the valves with new ones? The car has 135,000 miles on it, so I'm thinking it might be better to simply replace the valves.

Now that raises some more issues, what kind of cost difference am I looking at with replacing the valves as opposed to fixing them? Should I go with OEM valves or 'performance' ones? My GSR now only has a DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic header, and an AEM SRI on it. I might want to eventually add a cat-back exhaust, but that will be about it.

Any advice?

 

looks like your on the right track. Since you dont have any big future modifications other than exhaust and intake work id use the OEM valves with a 3 angle valve job on it. Just my opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like your on the right track. Since you dont have any big future modifications other than exhaust and intake work id use the OEM valves with a 3 angle valve job on it. Just my opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would I need a 3-angle valve job? I thought that was only for a Type R valve? Or am I missing something?

 

you dont need a 3 angle job, just a suggestion to help you breathe a little better. you should do a valve adjustment yourself, and if the problem doesnt get any better get your valves replaced most likely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need a 3 angle job, just a suggestion to help you breathe a little better. you should do a valve adjustment yourself, and if the problem doesnt get any better get your valves replaced most likely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see. So instead of getting the 3-angle job, why not just get Type R valves? Or would the seat have to be changed so they can fit properly, or can the Type R valves just drop in a GSR?


Modified by BamaGSR at 5:34 PM 3/29/2004

 

Also what's a good source online for OEM valves? Good prices?

 

Don't get ahead of yourself and buy new valves - valves don't really go bad unless something whacks em, so do this first - Do your own valve adjustment for free (- cost of new valve cover gasket, ~$40) and see if this fixes your problem. Perform a leakdown test and makes sure valves are indeed the problem.

It's possible that one of the valve rockers are set so tight that a valve on your 2nd/3rd cylinder isn't closing completely and that would result in lower compression and a funky idle. Do the simple checks and fixes first before you blow money on new valves and head work, just my two cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psychotic_z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't get ahead of yourself and buy new valves - valves don't really go bad unless something whacks em, so do this first - Do your own valve adjustment for free (- cost of new valve cover gasket, ~$40) and see if this fixes your problem. Perform a leakdown test and makes sure valves are indeed the problem.

It's possible that one of the valve rockers are set so tight that a valve on your 2nd/3rd cylinder isn't closing completely and that would result in lower compression and a funky idle. Do the simple checks and fixes first before you blow money on new valves and head work, just my two cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry I forgot to mention, but when i took it to Acura to look at it a couple of years ago, they adjusted the valves then. After that the idle problem didnt get any better, has stayed the same since.

One guy sells Type R valves on ebay, he said they will fit in my GSR with no problem. Is this right?