Ok...heres the deal. Just got done swapping a fully built LS(benson sleeved to 84mm, o-ringed, je pistons, crower rods, and knifeedged crank, JG head, crower turbo cams, skunk2 cam gears and type r intake manifold)....just put a DC 4-1 header on it to get it running before we install the turbo..its in an eg and the damn thing idles EXTREMELY rough until it warms up and then doesnt run at all....and while it idles the engine shakes reaaaally bad...weve got a P05 ecu on it until we can get an LS ecu next week and weve also tried a P75 and the problem still exists...What could it be??? There is also a slight tick somewhere (were thinking the valves but it all looked like it was set at top dead center...Just cant fig. out the problem....any advice is greatly appreciated!!!

 

check the ignition timing and cam timing...

 

ttt thanks will check that....any other opinions?

 

This is a simular set up like I have . I have found that the Crower cams have sharp ramps on the lobes thus getting this ticking noise from the valvetrain from the slapping of the valves . If i'm wrong about this i'm sure someone will let me know . My motor also idles like crap , so I adjusted the throttle cable to bump up the idle . I guess I have my own question about this also . Do you need hondata to correct this problem of zero idle or can it be done another way safe without going the hondata route ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheGreek00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> This is a simular set up like I have . I have found that the Crower cams have sharp ramps on the lobes thus getting this ticking noise from the valvetrain from the slapping of the valves . If i'm wrong about this i'm sure someone will let me know . My motor also idles like crap , so I adjusted the throttle cable to bump up the idle . I guess I have my own question about this also . Do you need hondata to correct this problem of zero idle or can it be done another way safe without going the hondata route ?</TD></TR></TABLE>


As soon as you installed the cams did it idle and then after it started to warm up..just cut off?? B/c thats what this one is doing and ive never had a cam do that....Thanks..

Keep'em comin

 

That is almost exactly the same problem that I had. I also have a 96 LS in an EG. And the swap is just done not even a week until I had the problem.

* Did it just die out after the radiator fan turned off the first round? I believe the ticking sound is come out from the distributor! The problem is that when the ignitor inside the distributor gets hot, for some reason the semiconductor within the ignitor start to short out. Try swap out the ignitor with a known working module
FYI: ignitor from a Civic distributor will work just fine, and when you take out the ignitor take note of the wires to where its connect to.
* For the bad idle when the engine is cold, the way to fix it is to take out your IACV and give it some "brake cleaner". Clean out all the residue on the screen and the valve next to it. When my IACV was dirty, the idle jump between 1500-2000 rpm, the engine shake as hell until it reach a normal temp.

Changing the ignitor and clean the IACV solve my problem, good luck with your let me know if you found anything interested about the problem.

 

come on guys...my buddy really needs the help on this one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10seceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">come on guys...my buddy really needs the help on this one...</TD></TR></TABLE>