Hey guys
I have seen something where people take out the box as well as the heater tube on the radiator and the resonator from inside the wheel well. Then they get a cone filter and attach it on the front of the stock tube that goes from the intake manifold to where the stock filter box used to be. It's a cheapo intake. Is that what you are thinking to do? Might as well get some dryer hose and run it where that resonator used to be to give that filter some extra cold air while you're at it.
Well i was just going to put a filter at the end of the tube that comes off the throttle body. And take the airbox out but the filter hits the battery so its not going to work. I think im going to just buy intake for it and then just save up for engine swap i do want intake right now tho. If anyone knows where i can get a good one for a good price show me link.
move the battery to the back cost is like 15 dollars and this is for the marine battery box, wire and bolts. You can pick one up at Wal Mart and you can get a filter from E-bay.
Just look around or try the classifieds.
Just look around or try the classifieds.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Furball »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">move the battery to the back cost is like 15 dollars and this is for the marine battery box, wire and bolts. You can pick one up at Wal Mart and you can get a filter from E-bay.
Just look around or try the classifieds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You shouldn't be using a marine box in a hatch back car unless you have a sealed (optima type) battery and a really good way to tie it down. Most good tracks won't let you race unless you have 5/8" bolts that pass through a thick battery tie down and through the underside of the car. If the car is a hatch, a sealed and externally vented case is required. It isn't good enough to just have the battery in a thin plastic box in the hatch.
That being said... To the original guy, just hang on to your money and save for a swap. An intake isn't going to make any real difference on a stock motor, and that is something you'll later have to replace with a turbo anyhow
.
Good luck!
Just look around or try the classifieds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You shouldn't be using a marine box in a hatch back car unless you have a sealed (optima type) battery and a really good way to tie it down. Most good tracks won't let you race unless you have 5/8" bolts that pass through a thick battery tie down and through the underside of the car. If the car is a hatch, a sealed and externally vented case is required. It isn't good enough to just have the battery in a thin plastic box in the hatch.
That being said... To the original guy, just hang on to your money and save for a swap. An intake isn't going to make any real difference on a stock motor, and that is something you'll later have to replace with a turbo anyhow
.Good luck!
Yea i know what your saying man lol... and thanks for helping me and saving me from moving that battery. Im gonna get a swap my g/f just says she would buy me intake and i dont really wanna turn it down. I guess should tho i was looking at these http://search.ebaymotors.com/s...earch=
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by therealciviczc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You shouldn't be using a marine box in a hatch back car unless you have a sealed (optima type) battery and a really good way to tie it down. Most good tracks won't let you race unless you have 5/8" bolts that pass through a thick battery tie down and through the underside of the car. If the car is a hatch, a sealed and externally vented case is required. It isn't good enough to just have the battery in a thin plastic box in the hatch.
Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>
what are you talking about
This is from the CCR for NASA
11.4.9 Battery
The battery shall be securely fastened to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber cords may
be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically non-conductive
material must cover the positive battery terminal. Any battery located inside the driverÂ’s
compartment should be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis (or tub) in a
marine type battery case
This is the Honda Challenge CCR which follows NASA which follows the rules above
4. Safety
4.1 Safety Requirements
All safety requirements will follow NASA standards as detailed in the NASA CCR. Where the Honda
Challenge Series Rules and the NASA CCRÂ’s differ, the Honda Challenge Series Rules will supercede the
NASA CCR. All vehicles and competitors must be outfitted with proper NASA CCR-compliant safety gear
including, but not limited to: legal roll cages, fire suppression device, harnesses, window nets, safety
switches, and proper driver attire. The NASA CCR is available for free online at http://www.nasaproracing.com
under “rules.”
You shouldn't be using a marine box in a hatch back car unless you have a sealed (optima type) battery and a really good way to tie it down. Most good tracks won't let you race unless you have 5/8" bolts that pass through a thick battery tie down and through the underside of the car. If the car is a hatch, a sealed and externally vented case is required. It isn't good enough to just have the battery in a thin plastic box in the hatch.
Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>
what are you talking aboutThis is from the CCR for NASA
11.4.9 Battery
The battery shall be securely fastened to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber cords may
be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically non-conductive
material must cover the positive battery terminal. Any battery located inside the driverÂ’s
compartment should be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis (or tub) in a
marine type battery case
This is the Honda Challenge CCR which follows NASA which follows the rules above
4. Safety
4.1 Safety Requirements
All safety requirements will follow NASA standards as detailed in the NASA CCR. Where the Honda
Challenge Series Rules and the NASA CCRÂ’s differ, the Honda Challenge Series Rules will supercede the
NASA CCR. All vehicles and competitors must be outfitted with proper NASA CCR-compliant safety gear
including, but not limited to: legal roll cages, fire suppression device, harnesses, window nets, safety
switches, and proper driver attire. The NASA CCR is available for free online at http://www.nasaproracing.com
under “rules.”
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