ok...so i just bought a sohc vtec engine (d16z6) from a friend for 500 bucks..the 500 got me the engine, tranny, computer, axles and short shifter from the car it was on...its got no header, or anything for exhaust, needs a starter, and some sort of intake...oh yeah...the top end has some work done to it like a cam, a.r.p. head bolts/studs (not sure wtf that is, but thats what the guy told me..lol) and is ported/polished..top end has roughly 20k miles on it, and the bottom end probly has around 70-80k miles on it...

now i have a couple of questions...first off, although i wont be doing the swap myself, is this a hard swap to do?? ive searched the topic, and saw something about dizzy's giving some type of problems or something...second off, what are some good exhaust systems for relatively cheap (im broke..) that are good for just like every day street driving...ive heard that there is some type of exhaust that has like a dual tip(small), and sounds relatively quiet, but still gives good flow...

i might be back with more questions, but i gotta go for now

but yeah, thanks in advance to anyone who has any input for me

 

A Z6 swap isn't very hard at all. The hardest part is probably the wiring side of things. You will need to use a D-series cable tranny (Si preferably) and the motor will bolt in without any sort of mount kit. As for the distributor, if you are going to use the Z6 ecu, then you won't have anything to worry about as far as distributor fitment. I'm assuming you have a 88-91 Civic (since you posted in here), so you will need to use an OBD0 to OBD1 wiring harness conversion in order to use the P28 (Z6) ecu. If you're not going that route, and plan to stay OBD0, then you'll run into some fitment issues with using an OBD0 distributor. I would suggest using the wiring conversion....trust me. As for an affordable exhaust, look into an Apexi World Sport, nice, quiet, and you should be able to find one for under $400. If that's too high, IM KTeller on this board, he sells pre-bent exhaust piping so you can make your own cat-back.

 

oopps..forgot to mention...this is goin into a 91 crx....

and when you say goin to OBD1...sorry for sounding soo much like a n00b, but wtf does that mean?? and would it hurt anything to stay OBD0? i need the hammer smiley..

 

All cars made before 91 are OBD0, cars made from 92-95 are OBD1, 96-98 are OBD2a and 99-up are OBD2b. Other than the distributor fitment issue, there is only one other problem staying OBD0, ecu options. The only OBD0 ecu that comes from Honda with the ability to activate and compensate for VTEC is the PR3 and PW0 ecus that are used for JDM 1st gen B16A's. You can use a PM6 (88-91 Civic/CRX Si), PR4 (90-91 Integra LS/RS), or a PG7 (88-89 Integra) ecus. If you do, you will need to use some sort of rpm activated switch to activate VTEC, or you can use an Apexi VAFC. Another option would be a Zdyne one wire ecu, more info here: http://www.zdyne.com

 

since you already got the obd1 dist and ecu, i think it would be beter just to convert it to obd1, well thats what i would do

 

convert to obd1 since all your parts are already obd1

 

ok..once again..pardon my ignorance, but what else do i need to convert to obd1...it might be posted above, but im in a hurry, and dont have time to read it again...

 

If you are going OBD1, then you'll use all that you got with the Z6 (other than the tranny) and you'll need an OBD0 to OBD1 wiring harness conversion (IM Blown90hatch for one). You will also need to convert your wiring harness over to MPFI if it already isn't.

 

[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline130 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are going OBD1, then you'll use all that you got with the Z6 (other than the tranny)</TD></TR></TABLE>

so i cant use the transmission that came with the engine? im confused, and stooopid...dont flame me..lol

 

Like I mentioned in my first reply, you will need to use a cable actuated tranny. The Z6 tranny is hydraulic actuated and will not bolt into your car.

 

obd1 is the way to gopilot make a great muffler twin tip souds good

 

I believe you have to change the drivers mount bracket on the engine to accomedate the z6 into the ef chasis. Atleast thats what i did to be safe.

Use your stock axles from the ef.

The dual tip exhaust you are talking about i believe it the hks sport.
I would suggest a Greddy sp. Very quiet and a nice look IMO.
The apexi world sport is my other favorite exhaust. Either one will get a from me.

Dont forget you will need the 4 wire o2 sensor to go along with the conversion. If you had the exhaust manifold on the motor still you would already have the o2 sensor but since you said you have nothing from the exhaust you will need the sensor.

Also get jasons conversion harness. Ifi you decided to convert to obd1 there are lots of people that will walk you thru it on here, including myself. Its pretty simple and straight forward.

Things you will need.

Your original engine harness.
The distributor plugs from the obd1 engine harness to make the distributor work.
Then you have to cut and splice the new grey plugs into the oringal harness.
Stock obd0 injectors.
Obd0-obd1 conversion harness: Blown90hatch has that. http://www.JKOBDConversionHarness.com
Obd1 Distributor: you already have that.
4 wire o2 sensor: Can be purchased for around 50 bucks used or 90 new from autozone, Bosch universal.

Then you have to run some wires thru the fire wall to the engine bay.

One to activate Vtec solenoid
One to activate Vtec Oil pressure
One to activate o2 sensor heater

And you have to connect a few grounds, pretty straight forwad.




Modified by brent_G at 11:32 PM 3/26/2004

 

here is a site that can help with the wiring http://www.geocities.com/chipm....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brent_G &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you have to change the drivers mount bracket on the engine to accomedate the z6 into the ef chasis. Atleast thats what i did to be safe.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I had to do the same thing, the drivers side mounts are slightly different, the rest of the mounts will work out fine (as the front and passenger side reside on the transmission) and the rear mount is cool. Wiring seems to be the biggest hassle and a lot of that will be whether or not your going to convert to OBD1 or just run a OBD0 ECU with a vtec switch.