safe to buy used tial wastegate?
I currently have a deltagate..and i found a tial 38mm for $160 while the brand new ones cost around $210...is it safe to buy a used one? how can i tell if it's still in good condition? or should i just play it safe and spend the xtra $60?
Wastegates are pretty hard to mess up. I have never really heard of anyone breaking one. They wear out, but I suspect it takes quite a bit of time for this to happen, as I have seen many with high mileage on them. As with anything though you take that risk that the last guy was an idiot. I would go with the used one personally.
Jake D.
Jake D.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamCracka »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You also get the benifit of having the spring allready be broken in!</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, this is very true. also its important to properly break in the ball bearings as well.
yep, this is very true. also its important to properly break in the ball bearings as well.
alrite thanks guys!
just in case i decide to buy a new one anyway...how do I properly break in a wastegate...because my motor is currently being built...so when it's done...i'm going to have to break it in anyway...so having to break in the wastegate is not a big deal to me...i'd rather spend a lil more then not knowing what the last owner did to it ya knoe...but yea...how do you properly break in a wastegate?
just in case i decide to buy a new one anyway...how do I properly break in a wastegate...because my motor is currently being built...so when it's done...i'm going to have to break it in anyway...so having to break in the wastegate is not a big deal to me...i'd rather spend a lil more then not knowing what the last owner did to it ya knoe...but yea...how do you properly break in a wastegate?
Theres no way to "break-in" a wastegate except for hitting the PSI the internal spring (or a manual or electronic boost controller) is set for.
After a bunch of high-heat cycles and opening/closing's of the diaphram/spring everything will loosen up and settle and you'll be good.
The only con to running a non-broken in wg is that the spring is initially stiffer, so say if you have a 7.5 lb spring, it might allow 7.5-8.5 of boost before it startes bleeding exhaust.
After a bunch of high-heat cycles and opening/closing's of the diaphram/spring everything will loosen up and settle and you'll be good.
The only con to running a non-broken in wg is that the spring is initially stiffer, so say if you have a 7.5 lb spring, it might allow 7.5-8.5 of boost before it startes bleeding exhaust.
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