Hi All,

My trusty old Civic is almost dead and I must get a another car. I don't have much experience buying cars and I don't know much about cars so I was hoping someone may be nice enough answers my questions and/or give some useful suggestions.

I'm thinking about a used Honda Accord V6:
- No older than 2000
- priced around $15,000 (should be under $20K)
- Around 50,000 miles

So far, based on KBB/Edmunds and looking at Autotrader/Reclycler this seems to be a reasonable combination. So my questions are:

1. Are there any specific problems with used (Y2K+) Accords that I should watchout for? Is there a year that is particularly bad (mechanically) or particularly good?

2. What do you guys think of "Certified Used"? Is it worth it? If I am interested in a vehicle from a private party, I intend to take it to a mechanic for inspection before buying. Would this be similar (or as good?) to the "150 point inspection"?

3. What do you think of vehicles that just came off of a lease?

4. I'm still torn between the 4 and 6 cylinder... my old car was "minimal" to say the least and I would like to drive a nice V6 but I'm not sure I can justify the cost.... Will the maintenance and repair cost of a V6 be significantly higher than that of a 4 cylinder?

Any useful input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Please feel free to point me to other useful sites/resources as well. Thank you for your time and your help.

-C


Modified by H0nda1 at 10:40 AM 3/21/2004

 

Getting a used Accord is not a bad idea. But for sure get it check before buying. Candian tire does it and it is pretty cheap. Now the mantice differeces between 4 cylinder and 6 are not that much. But there still is a differece. So just make sure u ain't getting ripped off and that the vechlie is in good shape.

 

check into the prices of a 4 cyl and a 6 cyl...if the 4 cyl is close to 4-5 g less...then get the 4 cyl and either turbo it or swap an h22a in it...you will have tons of power and still have a 4 cyl thatll give you good gas mileage...if you dont want to deal with that then just get a 6 cyl and just keep searchin till you find a steal. good luck on ur search good choice going for an accord

 

Thanks for all your inputs. I'm going to stop by some dealers early next week to see what they have.

 

I have a 98 accord with 95,000 miles for sale. $7800 Email or Pm me.

 

I believe the V6 honda accord from 2000 have automatic transmission issues.

Also, have you checked out http://www.carsdirect.com for ballpark prices?
You can get a new 2004 4clyinder Honda Accord w/ ABS + 160hp engine for $14,258 (automatic for 14,977).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the V6 honda accord from 2000 have automatic transmission issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

all honda auto trannies suck IMO........and all pre 03 v6 were auto.....
if ur gonna get a v6, get an '03 w/ the 6spd manny....otherwise i agree w/ fatjoe.... get a 5spd 4cyl and turbo that bitch......

that certified **** is DEFINANTLY worth it if u dont plan on modifying the car.....good luck, and welcome tot he accord family

 

IMHO, the 99-00 Accords are the best looking Accords ever. Except for maybe the new 2 door Accords, those are damn good looking cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMDC2NH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMHO, the 99-00 Accords are the best looking Accords ever. Except for maybe the new 2 door Accords, those are damn good looking cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean 98-02, cause there all the same model (6th gen)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mclaren F1 LM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But for sure get it check before buying.</TD></TR></TABLE>

some private dealers don't let you do that lol. they think its 'wasiting' their time. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe the V6 honda accord from 2000 have automatic transmission issues.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

and yes all honda tranny's suck lol maybe the 03s+ are a bit better.. but still suck.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also, have you checked out http://www.carsdirect.com for ballpark prices?</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats ballpark mean?

 

I say get a lx 5 spd 2003 or 2004 model for roughly around that price. I bought a new 2003 ex auto for my mom a couple months ago for 19500 and man they are such a huge improvement over older generations. Better power, better luxury, and mucho better road feel. Drive it and you'll see.

 

could someone answer atleast one of my questions lol

 

saying something is in a "ballpark" is like saying "it's a reasonable guess...."

like when a ball player hits a baseball....it lands "somewhere in the ballpark"...

So carsdirects' internet pricing is somewhere in the "ballpark" of what you would actually pay (though you could probably get a better deal)

 

Thank you all again for all the helpful replies. I've done some asking around and looking at some of the replies, it seems that the 6th generations (auto) have transmission problems. So I'm leaning more toward a new one... so I have yet some other questions:

I checked CarsDirect.com they have the 4-dr, automatic, 4-cyl EX Accord for $19,470 (this is including a $300 discount if I finance through CarsDirect). I went to one dealer today and test drove both a 4-cylinder and a V6 they're both nice but due to $$ reasons, I'll be leaning toward the 4-cyl (but man that V6 with leather is nice!)

I asked this dealer about beating/matching the CarsDirect price and he said he couldn't do it because they don't include shipping & destination charge... (which is not true, I see the $490 destination charge on the web site but they're right it doesn't say shipping). Anyways, he said he coud do this:

Invoice + Destination charge. Which is $20,020 + $490 = $20,510. What do you guys think of this price? I am hoping for $21,000 out the door including tax and everything, is this reasonable (I'll pay cash for the car)? It seems to me they should be able to do at least $19,770 for the price of the car (if I let them have the $300 CarsDirect finance discount).

I'm going to go to another dealer tomorrow. I know they'll try to work me with high pressure sales. What kind of tricks will they pull? What are some negotiation tips? (i.e. what if they start saying again that the internet price doesn't have this and that)

Final question(s): How does this CarsDirect.com thing work? Can you actually buy a car from their web site? Has anyone bought a car from them? I'm asking because $19,770 seems like a good price and since it's listed on the web site I'm assuming someone is able to sell at that price.... I've e-mailed a few dealers and they all try to tell me that the the online price is not taking into account some things (several said they'll "match" any carsdirect price, I'm not sure I undertand "match" in terms of dealer-speak)

Once again, thank you all very much for your time. It has been very helpful. I hope to be driving an Accord soon.

 

I picked up my 2000 Accord EX-L with a 4-cyl/5-speed with only 27,000 miles on it in April of 2002 for $14,000 (I paid cash, so I had a little more haggling power). The EX-L is the fully loaded top-of-the-line 4-banger with leather interior, all the power goodies, moon roof, etc. And on top of that it was a Honda Certified Vehicle so Honda extended the factory warranty to 48,000 miles or 2004. Only problem I have had so far is that now with ~60,000 miles my passenger side CV joint is making noise.....so time to replace it

You can save a boat-load of money if you pick up a slightly used model and save the extra cash for other toys or mods to your car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've e-mailed a few dealers and they all try to tell me that the the online price is not taking into account some things (several said they'll "match" any carsdirect price, I'm not sure I undertand "match" in terms of dealer-speak)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most dealers are crooks by nature.....They will say they will match the price and get you hooked to stay around but then when the final paperwork comes through and they show you the selling papers they throw in so many extra BS charges that it is very difficult to figure out exactly what you are paying for. FYI, DO NOT SIGN ANY PAPERWORK until you go over EVRY LINE ITEM DETAIL on the sales contract and agree with what they are trying to sell you.

 

bump for more replys. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0nda1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. Are there any specific problems with used (Y2K+) Accords that I should watchout for? Is there a year that is particularly bad (mechanically) or particularly good?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cars are all the same, they all have there problems. Look out for trannys and suspensions. Check with http://www.alldata.com for recalls.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0nda1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. What do you guys think of "Certified Used"? Is it worth it? If I am interested in a vehicle from a private party, I intend to take it to a mechanic for inspection before buying. Would this be similar (or as good?) to the "150 point inspection"?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Certified used does not mean anything. IMHO, it is a 150 point inspection and i think it should be taken with a grain of salt. Used cars are used cars. I do not trust salesmans or shops...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0nda1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. What do you think of vehicles that just came off of a lease?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

COuld be good, could be bad. Depends who drove it and how they took care of it... Hard to say just by looking at the vehicle.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0nda1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. I'm still torn between the 4 and 6 cylinder... my old car was "minimal" to say the least and I would like to drive a nice V6 but I'm not sure I can justify the cost.... Will the maintenance and repair cost of a V6 be significantly higher than that of a 4 cylinder?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No really. Maybe the gas mileage, a couple more sparkplugs but that is about it.

Get yourself a couple of people that are highly skilled mechanically to go with you and check these cars out. If that is not possible, bring the car down to a trustworthy shop for a thourough inspection (body, frame, suspension, interior, engine and tranny). Of course they cannot identify if the tranny will blow up for some stupid reason, but at least it lays a good foundation. That is the only way to protect yourself from big surprises. Be vary carefull dealing with salemans.. They want to make a sale, they want your money... They do not care about you or the car you drive.

fs

 

Here is my thread about buying a new TSX (but completely applicable to your new accord). This applies 100% to you especially since your in the LA area (i'm in Pasadena myself).

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=709678

My advice about cars in general? At your price point (15k) it makes sense to buy a new one b/k NEWER used hondas retain too much of their value...(if you read my write-up you'll understand). Why buy a 4 year old car, with no (or barely a) warranty, used up, scratched, farted in, with possible auto-tranny issues and 50k+ miles when you can, for about the same price, get into a new one?

Good luck (on your very first new car?). That's great!

 

You really can't do too much in terms of performance(other than that $4k comptech supercharger).

If you must get this gen, make sure a mechanic checks that tranny.

Din't you have civic before? Why not an integra? Just curious.

 

Thanks A LOT guys for all your advice. I did a lot more looking around and Internet searches after reading your responses and this is what I've gained so far:

I have gotten the following quotes from dealers ('04 Accord EX auto 4-cyl 4-dr):
$20,424 (Sierra Honda, beating CarsDirect price by $200)
$20,510 (Honda of Pasadena)

These prices are very close, have I hit the price floor? (Is Sierra a volume dealer? They have lots of cars in their lot.)

As I searched the late model used Honda's I did find (to my surprise/dismay) that they held their value very well so it does seem more reasonable to buy new. I've learned from reading RotaryBzzzz's TSX post that I should look for high volume dealers and buy on the 30th.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r2N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Din't you have civic before? Why not an integra? Just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wanted a slightly larger car. Often times, I have passengers in my car and it will be more comfortable for them. I kinda wanted a sporty feel and passenger comfort at a reasonable price.

Since you guys are so helpful, I'll present my entire situation here and perhaps you guys can let me know if I'm taking the best steps:

I have a 1990 Honda Civic hatchback base model (150,000 mi) with an expired registration. The car failed smog and I was quoted a figure of approx $400 to fix it so the overal cost to operate the car legally is above the cost of the car.

So in parallel, I've searched for the cheapest methods to pass smog (thanks again to another existing honda-tech post ) and I'm looking for the best price for a new car. If I find a great deal, then I'll buy a new one ASAP. Or if I can get the car to pass smog now I'll drive it until August (or September?) when the 05's are in and try to get a deal on the 04's.

How much cheaper can I get a car for if I wait until the 05's are out?

Part of me is willing to wait but I don't feel comfortable driving with an expired registration as I'm not sure if the tricks will get me past smog. Just yesterday this big Chevy truck came into my lane without warning, luckily I reacted fast and avoided a collision. There's no doubt that it was his fault had we collided; except for the fact that my registration is expired and I shouldn't be on the road... After this near-accident, the issue of safety also crossed my mind: I don't have airbags (nor do I have AC, clock, cigarette lighter and a right side mirror... but I do have genuine Honda floormatts... oh and this big dent on the side because some guy backed into my parked car in the lot)

So, what do you guys think? Also, I've been mainly e-mailing dealers because I don't want to deal with high pressure sales this early in the game (I don't mean to judge but... a majority of the salesmen standing in the lot look like crooks straight up... you could see it in their faces). But it seems like the quoted prices are staying around $20,424 is it time to actually go to the dealers and haggle?

 

best thing to do is go to a dealership with the intent not to buy anything. they will deal with you like crazy. their life depends upon you buying a car and they will do what they can to make a buck off of you, or just get you to support their life a lil bit. also salesmen also get very desperate to sell sometimes because if they arent selling like they should, they get the boot. we had a salesman (i work at a sales, service dealership) and he was able to sell cars like crazy all the time. he didnt sell very well one week and was fired. its nutz how it can get sometimes.

when you go to the dealership make sure to not show too much excitement towards any car. "oh damn this thing looks good!" the salesmen is gonna be like... "heh, sucker..." just always keep a straight face and always DEAL. never settle for a price they give you right off the bat. they will tell you a price above what they are actually selling it at at first more than likely, then lower it for you to the price they advertise it at. ive seen it done, and they tried getting me to do it once (i filled in on a snow day when there were no salesmen to be found, yet customers were present, i also had the enjoyment of a sunny day sale as well).

test drive everything you are interested in and drive like you would normally drive a car, they dont care if you drive it hard because its not their car

if i were you i would def wait for the 05's to come out because thats when they need to REALLY clear out the lots for the 05's so they are willing to let the cars go for cheaper. just pay for extra registration right now and you will save money in the end. good luck on buying the new car, good decision on thinking about an accord. oh and, of course accords keep their value well, its an accord!!!!

 

your volume honda dealer is in Cerritos. Norm Reeves Honda superstore in Cerritos.

They don't typically advertise prices in the LA Times that I've seen (but sometimes they do)....an excuse to peruse the Wednesday/Friday/Saturday & Sunday editions.

Advice #1 re: failed smog civic. You can get an 1-year "hardship" smog exemption from the DMV since smog repairs exceed $350 (&lt;-i don't remember the exact $). This will allow you to register the car and takes the heat off buying a car "NOW"...as well as keep you legal.

linked: http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/st...m.htm

Have you investigated insurance yet? xlnt companies:

Costco/AMEX - A rated
Wawanesa General - A rated (my company)
AAA insurance - A rated

all these companies are exlnt and, in my experience, offered far superior quotes with high service than Mercury or even 21st century

EDIT: If you still have them, why don't you post up your smog-check numbers for your civic? That way everyone here can point you in the right direction



Modified by RotaryBzzzz at 10:40 PM 3/26/2004

 

Thanks, I looked at the smog check web page and I don't think I qualify for the assistence (if that's the one your talking about). I don't make very much but I still make above the maximum annual gross household income. Also, the car will be registered in CA for the first time (one of the items on the Consumer Assistence Program checklist). The old registration was done in CO. I am still insured through StateFarm.

Here is my smog information: (I failed on NO so these are the NO(PPM) numbers)
15mph MAX(835) AVE(237) MEAS(1066) FAIL
25mph MAX(774) AVE(199) MEAS(743) PASS

The HC and COare at least 50% below the MAX. From reading other posts, I'm going to get an oil change, put in some fuel injector cleaner in the gas, drive it for a while before my next smog appointment. Oh, the tech told me that I had an exhaust leak also. Basically I'm looking for the cheapest way to get it to pass smog.

 

duct tape that exhaust leak up!

 

Have you considered all cars that could be had for around $15k?