Fuel Pressure at 58psi, Bad idea???
I have a b18c1 engine with cold air intake headers exhaust, walboro fuel pump a/f gauge and B&M pressure regulator beore i put the B&M on my fuel pressure was at 43 stock regulator, after i put it up to 58 psi, my a/f guage doesn't read to rich at idle and on throttle, just WOT it is rich but thats normal, is this to much should i lower it down to 50psi?? thanx
dont pay attention to your a/f guage unless it is wideband
it is useless, there for nothing but a light show for the "showkaa" status
you should only be running maybe 44-45psi with the minimal mods you have
there would be no reason for you to run that high of a psi and on top of that you really have no need for the walbro either
it is useless, there for nothing but a light show for the "showkaa" status
you should only be running maybe 44-45psi with the minimal mods you have
there would be no reason for you to run that high of a psi and on top of that you really have no need for the walbro either
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont pay attention to your a/f guage unless it is wideband
it is useless, there for nothing but a light show for the "showkaa" status
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Says the kid who probably has no clue how it all works......
I agree, though; I would leave the fuel pressure close to stock.
it is useless, there for nothing but a light show for the "showkaa" status
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Says the kid who probably has no clue how it all works......
I agree, though; I would leave the fuel pressure close to stock.
who says i hav no clue as to how a wide band o2 works
dood you really need to look into the quality of tech replies
i have posted before you open your mouth and drop
judgements.
seriously man grow up
dood you really need to look into the quality of tech replies
i have posted before you open your mouth and drop
judgements.
seriously man grow up
Quality of tech replies? Maybe you should check some of my "tech" replies.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have posted before you open your mouth and drop
judgements.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And that made no sense whatsoever.
Don't get your panties in a wad; I'm not tryin to argue just for the sake of arguing. Wanna know why I think what I think?
The OEM O2 sensor is a "narrowband" sensor; it only does the small job it has to do. This job is to tell the ECU when it is lean or rich; not how rich or lean, just a general idea. It does this job, and it does it well. If you hook it up to an a/f gauge and it says the car is running lean, then it is running lean. If it says it's running rich, then it's running rich.
The reason it does not work well in high-performance cars is that the range you want to keep the a/f ratio at is usually not at 14.7:1, it is usually lower. Therefore, when you try to tune it at a lower ratio, it gets very inaccurate. Whether it be 13.0:1 or 8.0:1, the guage and sensor will only read rich.
One thing you have to think about is this: the gauge only reads what the sensor tells it; no more, no less. If the sensor was NOT doing its job, then your car would run like crap from the factory. But it does do its job; people just don't like the fact that it doesn't do anything more than necessary.
So the point I would like to make is that an a/f gauge on the stock O2 sensor is NOT worthless; it WILL tell you if you're running rich or lean. But it will NOT help you very much at tuning, especially if you are running much higher HP levels than stock.
I'm Chase, nice to meet ya
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have posted before you open your mouth and drop
judgements.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And that made no sense whatsoever.
Don't get your panties in a wad; I'm not tryin to argue just for the sake of arguing. Wanna know why I think what I think?
The OEM O2 sensor is a "narrowband" sensor; it only does the small job it has to do. This job is to tell the ECU when it is lean or rich; not how rich or lean, just a general idea. It does this job, and it does it well. If you hook it up to an a/f gauge and it says the car is running lean, then it is running lean. If it says it's running rich, then it's running rich.
The reason it does not work well in high-performance cars is that the range you want to keep the a/f ratio at is usually not at 14.7:1, it is usually lower. Therefore, when you try to tune it at a lower ratio, it gets very inaccurate. Whether it be 13.0:1 or 8.0:1, the guage and sensor will only read rich.
One thing you have to think about is this: the gauge only reads what the sensor tells it; no more, no less. If the sensor was NOT doing its job, then your car would run like crap from the factory. But it does do its job; people just don't like the fact that it doesn't do anything more than necessary.
So the point I would like to make is that an a/f gauge on the stock O2 sensor is NOT worthless; it WILL tell you if you're running rich or lean. But it will NOT help you very much at tuning, especially if you are running much higher HP levels than stock.
I'm Chase, nice to meet ya
you need to read the post in its entirety<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you really need to look into the quality of tech replies i have posted before you open your mouth and drop
judgements.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was just letting off steam, i apologize
i have been getting tired of people judging others when they have no previous
evidence or reason to.
and yes i agree with your statement that you have had an impact with quality information.
also the narrowband o2 is rather inaccurate in the lean and rich field
the "narrow band" o2 sensor only uses a 0-1v voltage spectum which yields a very
innacurate reading.
a wide band o2 sensor has a active sensing range from 1-5volts which lets the
sensor detect smaller and more accurate values throught the lean stioch rich
spectum.
the narrow band o2 sensor is only accurate in the stioch area of sensing so the ecu
has the information needed to create a closer more accurate adjustment while in
open loop(not in WOT)
(WOT is a closed loop circut and tuning is not affected by the o2 sensor, but
controlled by a pre-programmed fuel plot in the ecu)
judgements.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was just letting off steam, i apologize
i have been getting tired of people judging others when they have no previous
evidence or reason to.
and yes i agree with your statement that you have had an impact with quality information.
also the narrowband o2 is rather inaccurate in the lean and rich field
the "narrow band" o2 sensor only uses a 0-1v voltage spectum which yields a very
innacurate reading.
a wide band o2 sensor has a active sensing range from 1-5volts which lets the
sensor detect smaller and more accurate values throught the lean stioch rich
spectum.
the narrow band o2 sensor is only accurate in the stioch area of sensing so the ecu
has the information needed to create a closer more accurate adjustment while in
open loop(not in WOT)
(WOT is a closed loop circut and tuning is not affected by the o2 sensor, but
controlled by a pre-programmed fuel plot in the ecu)
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