proper break-in methods...
ok, i'll keep it simple...
b18a1
aebs sleeved block (basically now a 2.0)
11.5:1 compression
je h-beam rods
cp pistons
ls crank
supertec valves/springs/retainers
jun3 cams
b16a2 head w/ 3angle v.j. and ported
there are other mods, but as of this weekend, it will be completely done, and i was wondering what the proper break-in method would be to break it in properly i.e. how many miles not to ragg on it, how much time, what rpm, etc...
thanks alot guys, i really appreciate it!
p.s. please do not respond by criticizing on the engine modifications, i just need to know how to take care of it after the motor is in the car
b18a1
aebs sleeved block (basically now a 2.0)
11.5:1 compression
je h-beam rods
cp pistons
ls crank
supertec valves/springs/retainers
jun3 cams
b16a2 head w/ 3angle v.j. and ported
there are other mods, but as of this weekend, it will be completely done, and i was wondering what the proper break-in method would be to break it in properly i.e. how many miles not to ragg on it, how much time, what rpm, etc...
thanks alot guys, i really appreciate it!
p.s. please do not respond by criticizing on the engine modifications, i just need to know how to take care of it after the motor is in the car
I didn't take the time to read that page that he posted too long
If what it says in there is to use a non-detergent motor oil for 500 km's and make sure you change up the rpm's. Don't let the rpm's stay constant(speed up then slow down). Then change the oil and go another 3-400km's.
Should be good to go from there.
If what it says in there is to use a non-detergent motor oil for 500 km's and make sure you change up the rpm's. Don't let the rpm's stay constant(speed up then slow down). Then change the oil and go another 3-400km's.
Should be good to go from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C8V6C »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So does everyone agree with this guys method of break in?^^</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup.. I did.
<FONT SIZE="4">www.<FONT COLOR="red">NAR-SPEC</FONT>.com</FONT>
yup.. I did.
<FONT SIZE="4">www.<FONT COLOR="red">NAR-SPEC</FONT>.com</FONT>
it's not that his theory seems uneducated, but i'm just not too sure if we should run this motor too hard after it's assembly....
does anyone else have input on motor break in?
does anyone else have input on motor break in?
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After my B16 build up, went with 30wt non-degergent oil for 1000 miles. No high rpms during this stint. Tried to vary speed as much as possible.
At the 1000mile mark, changed the oil to 5w-30 and hit the dyno. My engine builder wanted me to wait until the 2000mile mark before I hit the dyno but the car ran like complete sh*t in it's untuned state.
I did a used oil analysis at the 6000 mile mark and it showed extremely low wear metals regardless of the type of engine, but considering it revs to 9000rpms and only had 6000miles since the rebuild it was a great looking report.
That is my personal experience and it seemed to work well for my engine.
Regards.
At the 1000mile mark, changed the oil to 5w-30 and hit the dyno. My engine builder wanted me to wait until the 2000mile mark before I hit the dyno but the car ran like complete sh*t in it's untuned state.
I did a used oil analysis at the 6000 mile mark and it showed extremely low wear metals regardless of the type of engine, but considering it revs to 9000rpms and only had 6000miles since the rebuild it was a great looking report.
That is my personal experience and it seemed to work well for my engine.
Regards.
I wouldn't trust his method, might spin a rod bearing. I broke in my LSVTEC with easy 500 city miles (under 4k RPM), then I put on 200 Highway miles and called it broken in. I changed oil after every 300miles. Get a magnetic oil plug too, they help collect all the bearing material.
I would agree, but my knowledge is somewhat limited. From personal experience I did a 2000 mile break, with a slow increase of rpms along the way and my friend with the identical motor took the hard short route. Needless to say with identical cars, (gearing and weight) his car was just a little faster and has had no problems. 2 different people and 2 different shops made the motors so that my have something to do with it. Still I I don't know what I am going to do with my new motor break in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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I did that break in method and I will do it on every other new motor I have from now on
I've been running this motor hard since it has had 20 miles on it. It has well over 2500 miles on it so far. 1000+ that have been hard boosted. Compression checked perfect after 1200 miles or so. I haven't been able to do a leakdown, but ring seal seems to be very good since there is no fluid showing up on the catch can indicator yet.
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I did that break in method and I will do it on every other new motor I have from now on
I've been running this motor hard since it has had 20 miles on it. It has well over 2500 miles on it so far. 1000+ that have been hard boosted. Compression checked perfect after 1200 miles or so. I haven't been able to do a leakdown, but ring seal seems to be very good since there is no fluid showing up on the catch can indicator yet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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I agree with this method.
Basicaly, get the rings seated right or quit wasting your time building a motor.
Many of you may not be familiar but anyone who has been around V8 builds will understand. What's the first thing most people do after the machine shop get done building them a high dollar V8? Get that bitch put on the engine dyno. Spend a few minutes getting it dialed in and then it is break in time. What does that mean? With the engine under a load run it hard up through the RPM range and let it decell under its own power. Do this a couple of times to seat the rings and "wham-bam-thank you mam"
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree with this method.
Basicaly, get the rings seated right or quit wasting your time building a motor.
Many of you may not be familiar but anyone who has been around V8 builds will understand. What's the first thing most people do after the machine shop get done building them a high dollar V8? Get that bitch put on the engine dyno. Spend a few minutes getting it dialed in and then it is break in time. What does that mean? With the engine under a load run it hard up through the RPM range and let it decell under its own power. Do this a couple of times to seat the rings and "wham-bam-thank you mam"
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Black R
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Dec 2, 2008 06:42 PM




