How do you strap "her" down?
No really! This RR related I'm picking up a new trailer and contemplating how to strap "her" (the race car) to the trailer.
I am a real newbie when it comes to towing so what is the best choice?
- four rachet straps to each corner?
- One non-adjustable strap front and two racket straps on the other end of the car?
- cross the straps on one end of the car?
I'm was planning to attach the straps to the lower control arms on the rear and front. Good? bad?
Thanks for any comments
Dave
#72 ITS GSR
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I use 4 ratchet straps with axle straps wrapped around each lower control arm. It's preferred to tie on to the "sprung" chassis of the car, so if you can get to your tow hooks, use those in the front.
Custom Tire bonnets from M & R on the fronts and motorcycles pull type camlocks to keep the rear from waving around on the trailer deck.
On my last trailer, I took it a step further and installed E-tracks on the deck. I had E-track clips installed on one the end of the bonnet in lieu of the standard hook clip and then modified/welded together two E-track clips and a "square" D-ring strap guide for clipping in the other side of the bonnet. The strap then travelled horizontal along the deck of the trailer to standard D-rings located on the front rim of the trailer. The ratchets were out in the open and easy to actuate.
The E-Track setup allowed me to move the car back and forth and few slots for weight balancing depending on how many tires were in the rack, fuel jugs being empty or full, different car, etc.
The bonnet method of tie down brings up a debate point. Is it favorable to let the suspension work freely on the trailer or should it be bound in compression?
Rick
On my last trailer, I took it a step further and installed E-tracks on the deck. I had E-track clips installed on one the end of the bonnet in lieu of the standard hook clip and then modified/welded together two E-track clips and a "square" D-ring strap guide for clipping in the other side of the bonnet. The strap then travelled horizontal along the deck of the trailer to standard D-rings located on the front rim of the trailer. The ratchets were out in the open and easy to actuate.
The E-Track setup allowed me to move the car back and forth and few slots for weight balancing depending on how many tires were in the rack, fuel jugs being empty or full, different car, etc.
The bonnet method of tie down brings up a debate point. Is it favorable to let the suspension work freely on the trailer or should it be bound in compression?
Rick
Does a GS-R have the tie down plates on the front end? If so, that's what I have used without any issues (CRX and a couple of 944s). On the rear of my car, there is a tow hoop and I connect both straps to that one point. I do think its recommended to cross the straps, in some cases (on my old trailer it was proximity to the tire rack) you can't - I'd think as long as the car is down tight, you'll have no problems.
Thanks guys!
Yup!
The GSR has the tow hooks on the front. I'm just not certain there is enough reach between the D-ring on the trailer and the tow hooks. I'll have a better look and let you know.
I also wonder about the benifits of attaching to the sprung or unsprung side of the car. I guess as the wheel rate increases the question becomes less important.
What I don't like about attaching to the lower control arms is the force you apply is not in the direction they were designed to take a load. Are they going to bend..... Probably not.
Hey Rick! can elaborate a little more on the "Custom Tire Bonnets" I think of a bonnet as another name for the hood of a car and I have a mental picture of straps over the hood and hatch.......I'm sure that's not what you mean
Dave
#72 ITS GSR
Yup!
The GSR has the tow hooks on the front. I'm just not certain there is enough reach between the D-ring on the trailer and the tow hooks. I'll have a better look and let you know.
I also wonder about the benifits of attaching to the sprung or unsprung side of the car. I guess as the wheel rate increases the question becomes less important.
What I don't like about attaching to the lower control arms is the force you apply is not in the direction they were designed to take a load. Are they going to bend..... Probably not.
Hey Rick! can elaborate a little more on the "Custom Tire Bonnets" I think of a bonnet as another name for the hood of a car and I have a mental picture of straps over the hood and hatch.......I'm sure that's not what you mean
Dave
#72 ITS GSR
Here is a link with a photo
http://www.tommystrailers.com/tire_bonnets.htm
The standard "in stock" fitments usually don't fit our racing tire sizes all that well which is why I order them custom to my dimensions.
Rick
http://www.tommystrailers.com/tire_bonnets.htm
The standard "in stock" fitments usually don't fit our racing tire sizes all that well which is why I order them custom to my dimensions.
Rick
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With my H3 GSR I use 4 ratchet straps. 2 in the front in an X shape to the stock tow locations and 2 in the rear to the tow loop. Works well. Car in neutral, hand brake off.
I used to use a fixed length chain in the rear of the car (at the front of the trailer) and two ratchet straps in front, but I have recently changed to a ratched on each corner because I think it's safer. I use the factory tow hooks in the front and I use forged "J" hooks in the rear mounted to the sub frame. I added my own "D" rings to the trailer so that the position would be ideal. So far, so good. The only trick is that it takes a little longer to tie it down since you have to keep adjusting the corners as everything gets tightened down (thereby loosening another corner).
J hooks into holes in front using 'x' pattern with ratchet straps. I also use a wheel chock up front. T hooks in the rear using 'x' pattern again with ratchet straps. These (T & J hooks) are the same things the commercial car carriers use. Do a search on 't hook' & you will see some pics on that thread.
I wouldn't recommend attaching to the rear tow loop as the sole attachment for the rear. IMHO, it doesn't seem that beefy.
I wouldn't recommend attaching to the rear tow loop as the sole attachment for the rear. IMHO, it doesn't seem that beefy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sexual connotations in this thread are numerous...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I only strap her down in the front, using tire bonnets. I use a tow dolly, these days.
She doesn't like to be backed onto the dolly, and have her rear strapped down...
I only strap her down in the front, using tire bonnets. I use a tow dolly, these days.
She doesn't like to be backed onto the dolly, and have her rear strapped down...
A point was made about crossing the straps. Very important. This helps eiliminate any side to side movement that might put the car off balance to one side of the trailer.
I drive a subaru and there's a tow hook at every corner... I cross in the front and the back.
--kC
I drive a subaru and there's a tow hook at every corner... I cross in the front and the back.
--kC
DC2:
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (straight).
-two ratchet straps, crossed, in the rear using the holes in the rear.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406
I would avoid using the suspension arms...
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (straight).
-two ratchet straps, crossed, in the rear using the holes in the rear.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=498406
I would avoid using the suspension arms...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DC2:
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (straight).
-two ratchet straps, crossed, in the rear using the holes in the rear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (crossed), the tow h00ks got bent a bit from the crossing of the straps, but nothing significant.
-Willard's method in back of my EG civic.
Works like a charm.
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (straight).
-two ratchet straps, crossed, in the rear using the holes in the rear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-two ratchet straps from the front tow points (crossed), the tow h00ks got bent a bit from the crossing of the straps, but nothing significant.
-Willard's method in back of my EG civic.
Works like a charm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the tow h00ks got bent a bit from the crossing of the straps</TD></TR></TABLE>
bent hooks = loose straps.
straight on the front for me.... no need to loose 'show' points with bent hooks.
bent hooks = loose straps.
straight on the front for me.... no need to loose 'show' points with bent hooks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bent hooks = loose straps.
straight on the front for me.... no need to loose 'show' points with bent hooks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Except that I need to pull the car up enough, and there is no way to use straps straight on (t00 close to the attachment point)
The tow h00ks bent enough to semi-align themselves with the straps and aren't bending anymore. No l00se straps since I started doing this.
Plus my car has negative show points anyway
bent hooks = loose straps.
straight on the front for me.... no need to loose 'show' points with bent hooks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Except that I need to pull the car up enough, and there is no way to use straps straight on (t00 close to the attachment point)
The tow h00ks bent enough to semi-align themselves with the straps and aren't bending anymore. No l00se straps since I started doing this.
Plus my car has negative show points anyway
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One other point - the nylon straps are wear items. They are quite sensitive to UV rays and deteriorate fairly quickly if left outside. Replace them frequently.
One of the cheapest places to get the racheting straps is Dave Turner Motorsports..
$27.50 for the G-Force ones..I love em..
http://www.daveturner.com/
Talk to Tim tell him Lee sent you
Ratcheting straps from Pep boys are $40 each..
$27.50 for the G-Force ones..I love em..
http://www.daveturner.com/
Talk to Tim tell him Lee sent you
Ratcheting straps from Pep boys are $40 each..
I use fixed length straps in the front (not crossed) and two ratchet straps in the rear to the center hook. I used to use the rear side tow hooks in the rear but cannot now with my current rear sway bar. Will definitely look at the J Hooks referenced above.
Look in the yellow pages for industrial strap dealers and they can make custom length straps for the front once you know where the car is to be positioned for optimum weight distribution.
I would also not cross straps or use suspension or wheel spokes due to bending things or the wheels rotating and then loosening your straps. The tow dollie style straps are very interesting when I have to change my method.
Look in the yellow pages for industrial strap dealers and they can make custom length straps for the front once you know where the car is to be positioned for optimum weight distribution.
I would also not cross straps or use suspension or wheel spokes due to bending things or the wheels rotating and then loosening your straps. The tow dollie style straps are very interesting when I have to change my method.
Regarding the hooks, I prefer to use the T hooks if possible. You will typically insert them into a 'oval' & then turn them 90*. Less chance of them falling out. Good point made about the nylon wearing from use & sun.
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