Blown Jdm ITR, New Ls/Vtec Pics & Story inside.
Rotation Assembly is OEM ls. No balancing done.
Why would I need stronger rods?
Its a n/a build with less then 210 whp.
I previously have built an lsvtec for a friend using ctr pistons yielding 12:3:1 c/r using non balanced internals & factory rods....
I have friends who have built lsvtecs and ran them for 35k+ on non balanced internals & stock rods.
Why would I need stronger rods?
Its a n/a build with less then 210 whp.
I previously have built an lsvtec for a friend using ctr pistons yielding 12:3:1 c/r using non balanced internals & factory rods....
I have friends who have built lsvtecs and ran them for 35k+ on non balanced internals & stock rods.
Cause im a wussy when it comes to being safe. Anyway...
Even 200whp and higher redline is alot of stress on those tiny toothpick rods. But thats just my oppinion. Never the less GREAT JOB!
Even 200whp and higher redline is alot of stress on those tiny toothpick rods. But thats just my oppinion. Never the less GREAT JOB!
The lsvtec kit by GE works nicely. You need a 1 inch socket to install it.
I used tefelon sealand on the lines/plug etc..
The GE dowels require you to bore your headgasket to fit the dowels.
It also requires a bit of sand paper on the dowels them selves.
Besides that I like it...
I used tefelon sealand on the lines/plug etc..
The GE dowels require you to bore your headgasket to fit the dowels.
It also requires a bit of sand paper on the dowels them selves.
Besides that I like it...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow great story and great build up man
ls vtec is definately the way to go </TD></TR></TABLE>the pics of the ITR motor looks just like my friends ITR motor when it blew up on the dyno ......sorry about your motor but good luck with the new build ...
ls vtec is definately the way to go </TD></TR></TABLE>the pics of the ITR motor looks just like my friends ITR motor when it blew up on the dyno ......sorry about your motor but good luck with the new build ...
b20 vtec = forged internals... = money which I didnt have.
I will probably dyno the motor when I feel like spending money on hondata.
I might dyno the motor the way it sits.
I purchased the parts & put the block into the machine shop on monday.
I built the motor when I got the block back & had all the parts on friday.
I installed the motor the same night :-)
Thanks for the comments guys.
I will probably dyno the motor when I feel like spending money on hondata.
I might dyno the motor the way it sits.
I purchased the parts & put the block into the machine shop on monday.
I built the motor when I got the block back & had all the parts on friday.
I installed the motor the same night :-)
Thanks for the comments guys.
well a balanced assembly is going to rev higher and last longer than an unbalanced on will. and how far out of balance it is determines just how quick its likely to shake itself appart. Thats critical for an ANYTHING/VTEC as people try to rev these higher than they were designed to rev. And balancing adds to life and reliability in these situations.
Concerning balanced assemblys... I agree on your theory, but this is a street motor not an endurance motor. Hence the ls/vtec build with oem internals unmodified.
If I was to build a race motor, everything would be balanced & blueprinted.
If I was to build a race motor, everything would be balanced & blueprinted.
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.looks like your using honda bearings
