what rotors are a better upgrade, cross drilled or slotted? what makes one better than the other?

 

i think by just (listening to experiences) not by my experience just slotted is perfered than cross-drilled/slotted!

Only if your a hard-core racer, 150 mph + then you need to have the cross-drilled/slotted!

But if just daily-driven most of the time 30 mph + then just slotted or aftermarket blanks!!

Reason is somthing to do with the heat-gases that goes through the rotor........

cross-drilled tends to crack b/c of the heat or something..... DAYMN i cant get too technical!!!!!!!!!!! Its not my field!!!!

TEG-OWNERS help your fellow foe!!!! Hey there explain the rest!!!!!

Hope that helps!!!!

 

most people think that those rotors help the car stop better. WRONG!! Threy only help dissipate heat so the rottor will not warp. You will only see benefits if you RACE around the track!

 

Yeah, big misconception. The stopping power is the area of the disc and the area of the pad touching the disc. Look at the touring cars and the F1 cars. They have large solid discs.

Sure, slotted/cross drilled might reduce brake fade, but not by much. The calipers are the weakest part of the brake, not the disc. Upgrading to a 4 or more piston caliper will put more of the brake pad under pressure for better stopping power. I know I worded that kinda wrong, but you proabably know what I meant to say.

 

I warped 2 sets of stock front rotors at track events. After the 2nd set, i got some power stop drilled rotors and good pads, no more warpage. Ive had these rotors on for about a year now, no cracking or anything.

 

Chryogenically treated rotors... don't remeber where i heard about them, but i think their name is Cryogenic something... cryogenically frozen rotors or something like that... anyway, i heard they are real good, not drilled or slotted. a few people have recommended them to me, but who know about them? (Spelling?)

 

BOTH

 

The don't even really help cooling that much...the original idea was that they would help dissapate the gases from the break down of organic pads. These days few pads require their use and they're primarily for looks.

 

actually.... in theory, the surface area in contact should not effect the ammount of retardation that the brake provides for the car.
it would help with heat dissipation, and life of the pad and rotor however.

the slots are meant to help remove the superheated gasses which induce brake fade.
the cross drilling helps to reduce unsprung weight. though it would probably help remove the gasses too.
and finally, i've heard that cross drilled brakes are more prone to warping than slotted ones.


[Modified by slimmy, 2:28 PM 10/18/2001]

 

ubermensch this is afaik absolutely correct.

slimmy surface area is what it is all about. the more metal that is in dirrect contact the more heat transfer will occur. the more heat transfer, the better braking.

think of a warm beer bottle, put it in a tub of ice, no water and ice mix, just ice, it will take about 15-30 minutes for that beer to chill properly. now take annother beer that is the same temp, put it in a tub of ice/water mix, it will take less than 5 minutes for the beer to chill properly. why is this?

the water is chilled by the ice to about 33-34 degrees, the air around the ice is also chilled to 33-34 degrees but the water/ice mix chills the beer faster because A) the water is more solid than the air B) there is more surface contact with a solid object (the water, which isn't a solid, but compaired to air, well you get it).

cross drilling and slotting are to do one thing. allow the gasses to dissapate. if you are using racing brake pads this is nessisary (as they still are organic), but with normal every day pads they are useless unless you want looks.

they are both equally prone to warpage compaired with the stock rotors.

all that aftermarket drilled or slotted are is stock rotors that have meat (metal) cut off of them. now, the more metal that there is (not just in contact area) the more heat you can dissapate. and the less heat you can dissapate the hotter and more prone to warpage your rotors become.

this is why I will never have my rotors turned and I urge anyone that says they are going to get it done not to. either deal with the warped rotors or get new ones.

honda/acura rotors are very lightweight as it is, and very prone to warpage, why go out and get some that already are more prone to warpage?

unless you do an upgrade of your rotor in size (which increases not only surface area contact, but the ammount of metal) don't upgrade at all. the gains are so minute you will never notice them, and the gains are pretty much negated by drawbacks.

I hope I was able to help a little.

 

nice job!

 

You're not going to notice a difference at all on the street unless you're experience serious outgassing problems with your current pads, which I doubt.

Stock is just fine, upgrade the pads and fluids or even the caliper.

 

samagon said it all best

~get neither drilled or slotted.
~spend your money on a bigger brake upgrade, like a fastbrakes 11" ITR front kit with used Prelude/Accord wagon/ITR calipers.

 

Brake fade can also be caused by overheating your brake pads. Brake pads have certain temperature regions in which they work best. Overheated brakes are the primary reason for fade for the people I know who go to the track.

I'm not certain what you mean by that. The racers I know use race pads but shun slotted/cross-drilled rotors. They tend to crack and fail more quickly than solid rotors. Warpage is not the failure mode, cracking is.

Disclaimer: I do not personally take my car to the track as I don't have the money to devote to it right now. My information is second hand, but gathered from people who were explicitly commenting on this issue, and whom I trust on such issues.

 

If you dont want to spend the money on a big brake kit, get slotted over cross drilled.

 

so if you do get crossed driller or slotted rotors, do u need special pads to go with them? which ones are best?

 

Like it was stated above, the slots/holes are to remove gases from old gseous pads. Pads are not made like that anymore for the most part. You are: 1. reducing contact area for the pad, 2. reducing cooling (less metal = less heat transfer, the vanes are what cool the rotor on vented rotors) and 3. running a POS rotor. I used to run powerslots. There were WORSE than OEM rotors if anything. I was going to throw them in the trash (running brembo blanks now) but a friend wanted to see how many blades we could break on the brake lathe first.. so pending that they are rusting on the driveway for now instead.

And any pads will work with slotted/cross drilled, but again, SAVE YOUR MONEY and get some brembo blanks. http://www.collettimotorsports.com/ has a AWESOME deal on brembo blanks for non ITR integras.