Sorry if this has been covered, didn't see anything in search...do you guy's think brake pads go bad, like milk? I've had some Axxis Metal Masters on my civic for about 1.5 years, with only about 4k miles and maybe 6-7 autocrosses. They still have plenty of meat left, but would it be worthwhile to replace them with some Ultimates, since they are on the old-side? Does anyone have a low-miles car like this where they replac stuff according to time, not miles/races?

 

I dont think pads go bad.

 

Pads generally do not go bad over time-they wear out. You would do well to flush and bleed the brakes at this point. If the pads are under 50% thickness-then consider replacing them.

 

they do not go bad with age, but Axxis Metal Master pads are not very good compared to expensive (but effective) pads like Porterfield. Once you ahve used REAL racing pads, you will never go back.

Scott

 

I ran an old (5+ years sitting new in the box) set of PF pads for a school and they worked perfectly. I'm not aware of anything in the pad compound that would change over time (like race rubber).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbstd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they do not go bad with age, but Axxis Metal Master pads are not very good compared to expensive (but effective) pads like Porterfield. Once you ahve used REAL racing pads, you will never go back.

Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>

For street and autocrossing I prefer the Axxis Ultimate pads over the Porterfield R4S that I used, I use Cobalt Friction GTR.spec.VR pads for the track, and will be upgrading my daily driven pads to a street pad recommended by Andy at Cobalt Friction.

Austin

 

Yeah, this is for autocross. Word on the street is that Ultimates or Metal Masters are the way to go...I've been very happy with the Metal Masters, but am looking forward to checking out the Ultimates.

Bleeding the brakes is a given, though most all of the fluid was replaced a few months back, while fooling around with, and replacing (with stock) my speed bleeders. What trash. (another rant).

On a related note, aside from the minimum thickness of the rotor, to what other factors do people pay attention when changing rotors? Since I don't actually have a run-out gauge or whatever, just eyeball it?

 

Ultimates are much better than metal masters.

I like carbotech panther plus for autox