99SI 300whp possible with jrsc?
First off, 300whp is possible with JSRC. Personally if you want SC, get a vortech. More money, but more power. I like centrifugal > roots type.
But before any of that, you should consider turbo. After driving on 300whp for a while you'll get bored and want more. That's where just a replacement of turbo or beefing the motor even more and uping the boost comes into play.
But before any of that, you should consider turbo. After driving on 300whp for a while you'll get bored and want more. That's where just a replacement of turbo or beefing the motor even more and uping the boost comes into play.
i dont know for some reason the idea of a turbo scares me. whenever i hear the word turbo thoughts of exploding engines come to mind. and when i take my car for routine maintance i can picture cletus and bubba looking at the engine with beweldered looks.
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
but i gotta do something this guy in a kia tryed me yesterday. their 6cylinder 4 door. he saw me take off from a red light and tryed keeping pace with me. i didnt see him at first but i was doing like 80 look at my rearview and theres Jr. in his moms kia. a ways back but still.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
but i gotta do something this guy in a kia tryed me yesterday. their 6cylinder 4 door. he saw me take off from a red light and tryed keeping pace with me. i didnt see him at first but i was doing like 80 look at my rearview and theres Jr. in his moms kia. a ways back but still.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhettdec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know for some reason the idea of a turbo scares me. whenever i hear the word turbo thoughts of exploding engines come to mind. and when i take my car for routine maintance i can picture cletus and bubba looking at the engine with beweldered looks.
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
but i gotta do something this guy in a kia tryed me yesterday. their 6cylinder 4 door. he saw me take off from a red light and tryed keeping pace with me. i didnt see him at first but i was doing like 80 look at my rearview and theres Jr. in his moms kia. a ways back but still.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A FI system is as reliable as the setup... Doesn't really matter if you're going to use a turbo or supercharger. Do it right the first time and dont' cheap out on parts/tuning.
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
but i gotta do something this guy in a kia tryed me yesterday. their 6cylinder 4 door. he saw me take off from a red light and tryed keeping pace with me. i didnt see him at first but i was doing like 80 look at my rearview and theres Jr. in his moms kia. a ways back but still.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A FI system is as reliable as the setup... Doesn't really matter if you're going to use a turbo or supercharger. Do it right the first time and dont' cheap out on parts/tuning.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swatdog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A FI system is as reliable as the setup... Doesn't really matter if you're going to use a turbo or supercharger. Do it right the first time and dont' cheap out on parts/tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put.
A FI system is as reliable as the setup... Doesn't really matter if you're going to use a turbo or supercharger. Do it right the first time and dont' cheap out on parts/tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very well put.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhettdec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about how much i drive a week to and ive been running the greddy kit out the box since last april. only problem i had was the headgasket. but that was because of a mistake with a boost controller
other than that, u cant go wrong with a turbo.
but, if you really want a supercharger, i would opt for a centrifugal type.
the car is a daily driver and i put almost 100 miles on it 5 days out of the week. so i dont know. thats why i was thinking jrsc, they appear more reliable. i dont know if thats true.
how reliable are turbo setups? will they cause any conflicts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats about how much i drive a week to and ive been running the greddy kit out the box since last april. only problem i had was the headgasket. but that was because of a mistake with a boost controller
other than that, u cant go wrong with a turbo.
but, if you really want a supercharger, i would opt for a centrifugal type.
ok so you guys are saying a supercharger is no more safe then a turbo setup? i dont have a preferrence between the two i just always thought of a SC being safer. hmm, head gasket aye. how hard are those to change yourself? greddy kit on that EX? and you usually run it at 7psi?
well give me a list of good turbo components for reaching 300whp. ive heard people saying your better off peicing a kit together yourself then buying one complete. would you say this is true?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhettdec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well give me a list of good turbo components for reaching 300whp. ive heard people saying your better off peicing a kit together yourself then buying one complete. would you say this is true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were ok before. But since you posted that now you're going to be directed to the H-T search option.
You were ok before. But since you posted that now you're going to be directed to the H-T search option.
JRSC@8psi+bolt ons+50HPnitrous=over 300HP easy.
JRSC@11psi+intercooler+bolt ons= close to 300.
You sure about that? I saw a GSR with bolt ons at 10.5psi making only 210whp. Best I have seen is 240whp with a good tune. JRSC dont make close to the power you are saying, as far as I can tell. Plus, you cant intercool them.
JRSC@11psi+intercooler+bolt ons= close to 300.
You sure about that? I saw a GSR with bolt ons at 10.5psi making only 210whp. Best I have seen is 240whp with a good tune. JRSC dont make close to the power you are saying, as far as I can tell. Plus, you cant intercool them.
Before buying a JRSC, read this:
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/marc-jrsc.html
Then read this:
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t....html
I had originally wanted a supercharger as well, but decided to go with turbo. JRSC's produce stupid amounts of heat after 8 psi of boost. Unlike the Vortech's they don't have an aftercooling system to help cool the incharge air(well, they do, but liquid injection is a pain in the ***). Turbos' work better if properly done.
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/marc-jrsc.html
Then read this:
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t....html
I had originally wanted a supercharger as well, but decided to go with turbo. JRSC's produce stupid amounts of heat after 8 psi of boost. Unlike the Vortech's they don't have an aftercooling system to help cool the incharge air(well, they do, but liquid injection is a pain in the ***). Turbos' work better if properly done.
Bolting a supercharger to your car makes it no more reliable than turbos, like others said it's all in tuning, setup, and maintanance. Hitting 300 whp would be tough with the jr supercharger. I've read that some people have trouble hitting 200 whp with SI's with the stock jr pully
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhettdec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know for some reason the idea of a turbo scares me. whenever i hear the word turbo thoughts of exploding engines come to mind. and when i take my car for routine maintance i can picture cletus and bubba looking at the engine with beweldered looks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Q: Turbo Hondas are very fast cars for only 15 second spurts (1/4 mile) and then have to cool until the next run?
A: Another fallacy. If the system is properly designed there shouldn't be any problems that only allow you to run 15 second spurts. The phenomenon described here is an inadequate cooling system that cannot dissipate the heat produced by sustained high peak cylinder pressures. Try the tricks in #1. Maybe the cooling system has too many miles on it. But the other likely scenario is that a lean condition that produces Higher Than Allowable EGT, coupled with high BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) in the cylinder overwhelm the system. If the Air/Fuel ratio is correct for the application, turbo stochiometric, then perhaps there wouldn't be excessively high EGT's. w\ the air/fuel ratio correct and a stable EGT, there should be no problems with a properly working cooling system.
Q: There is no such thing as a daily driven turbo Honda?
A: Try telling that to those that own FMAX kits and run 10-15 psi daily, on the stock bottom end for years, trouble free. If detonation is eliminated there is nothing to say that your engine will not survive higher than intended cylinder pressures. Whether it is turbocharged, normally aspirated or supercharged, a given torque number, for a given engine, usually translates into the same cylinder pressure, the horsepower may vary. Cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure, detonate the same engine, when turbocharged, supercharged or normally aspirated, and the result will be the same. Don't let someone in sales tell you otherwise, ask an engineer or a professor.
Q: When driving a turbo Honda, you cannot downshift b/c it will hurt the engine?
A: Wrong again. 3000 RPM is 3000 RPM, in any gear engine speed is engine speed, but what does change is the load, the load is entirely different based on the gearing and the velocity of the car, aerodynamic load increases in factor as velocity increases. The load is actually harder on the engine at 2000 RPM 5th gear 30 MPH than at 6000 RPM 2nd gear 30 MPH. Try these combinations some time, and listen to how hard an engine is working. Given that you don't over rev the engine, have the proper air/fuel ratio and the abscence of detonation, there's no reason why the engine will grenade, unless the load and cylinder pressure exceed the mechanical limits of the engines components.
http://www.turbo-kits.com/turbo_kits_faqs.html
hope that takes the scare away.
Q: Turbo Hondas are very fast cars for only 15 second spurts (1/4 mile) and then have to cool until the next run?
A: Another fallacy. If the system is properly designed there shouldn't be any problems that only allow you to run 15 second spurts. The phenomenon described here is an inadequate cooling system that cannot dissipate the heat produced by sustained high peak cylinder pressures. Try the tricks in #1. Maybe the cooling system has too many miles on it. But the other likely scenario is that a lean condition that produces Higher Than Allowable EGT, coupled with high BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) in the cylinder overwhelm the system. If the Air/Fuel ratio is correct for the application, turbo stochiometric, then perhaps there wouldn't be excessively high EGT's. w\ the air/fuel ratio correct and a stable EGT, there should be no problems with a properly working cooling system.
Q: There is no such thing as a daily driven turbo Honda?
A: Try telling that to those that own FMAX kits and run 10-15 psi daily, on the stock bottom end for years, trouble free. If detonation is eliminated there is nothing to say that your engine will not survive higher than intended cylinder pressures. Whether it is turbocharged, normally aspirated or supercharged, a given torque number, for a given engine, usually translates into the same cylinder pressure, the horsepower may vary. Cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure, detonate the same engine, when turbocharged, supercharged or normally aspirated, and the result will be the same. Don't let someone in sales tell you otherwise, ask an engineer or a professor.
Q: When driving a turbo Honda, you cannot downshift b/c it will hurt the engine?
A: Wrong again. 3000 RPM is 3000 RPM, in any gear engine speed is engine speed, but what does change is the load, the load is entirely different based on the gearing and the velocity of the car, aerodynamic load increases in factor as velocity increases. The load is actually harder on the engine at 2000 RPM 5th gear 30 MPH than at 6000 RPM 2nd gear 30 MPH. Try these combinations some time, and listen to how hard an engine is working. Given that you don't over rev the engine, have the proper air/fuel ratio and the abscence of detonation, there's no reason why the engine will grenade, unless the load and cylinder pressure exceed the mechanical limits of the engines components.
http://www.turbo-kits.com/turbo_kits_faqs.html
hope that takes the scare away.
my buddy has a 99 si with the jackson racing kit with an 8lb pully and the water injuection kit and it runs pretty good, but i doubt its near 300hp, the torque curve is pretty impressive over stock though.
never put the car on the dyno yet so i honstly couldnt say
never put the car on the dyno yet so i honstly couldnt say
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^jefs0ng »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, 300whp is possible with JSRC. Personally if you want SC, get a vortech. More money, but more power. I like centrifugal > roots type.
But before any of that, you should consider turbo. After driving on 300whp for a while you'll get bored and want more. That's where just a replacement of turbo or beefing the motor even more and uping the boost comes into play.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well put. do some searching for b16 setups in the archived and recent threads in the Forced Induction forum and decide which setup is best for you
But before any of that, you should consider turbo. After driving on 300whp for a while you'll get bored and want more. That's where just a replacement of turbo or beefing the motor even more and uping the boost comes into play.
</TD></TR></TABLE>well put. do some searching for b16 setups in the archived and recent threads in the Forced Induction forum and decide which setup is best for you
is there a book that has all this crap in it? i know there are a few honda tuning books out there. i dont know how good they are, or what exactly they talk about. it seems to me if i were to peice this thing together my self i should start with the turbo. i always liked turbonetics for some reason.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcMONSTER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls/vtec that biotch</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i like to hear
but again build it right and dont cheap out or your fu@#ed
thats what i like to hear
but again build it right and dont cheap out or your fu@#ed
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