Got the turbo bug. Little input and help for a newb please.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
Blah, stupid friends, why do they have to go and mess up my plans
. I was planning to do a pretty extensive all motor build for my ITR mainly due to the fact that it is starting to burn oil and I have nothing else to spend my money on.
Well one of my good friends came down in his new turbo B18B hatch. Stock block, running 10lbs on a T3/T4 60trim, tuned conservatively with hondata. It short it freaking hauled ace and put about 4 car lengths on a stock LS1 within the span of 60mph (from a roll). Needless to say I was impressed.
I've decided to just build the R back OEM style (selling my 84.5mm CP pistons if anyone is interested
). I never bought it to be a drag car and will spend my money for its auto-x needs (where it actually excells). It will continue to be my very responsive all motor car, and besides it runs 13's (hopefully faster once its actually tuned on a dyno and not burning oil) so its not THAT slow.
So now every time I walk out to my 91 Si beater car it whispers to me that it needs boost. I think I'm fixing to give in to its evil demands and come to the dark side.
Here is my newb plan.
Engine: B18B. Before I swap it in I'll throw in a set of forged rods and pistons (not going 2.0 liter with the R now so might as well waste money on something
). The reason I'm leaning toward the B18B is because I like how it produces similar torque and horspower numbers as opposed to a more peaky (yet more potential filled) B18C.
Turbo: A proper T3/T4 setup. Old but it works. Since I already have a nice all motor car I could really care less about lag. As long as it makes the power where it needs it I'll be happy.
Manifold: Just a high quality log style.
Intercooler: I'll spend good money here, cool air = da good.
Fuel management: Hondata of course.
Wastegate: Tial 38mm
BOV: DSM should work right?
My wants: Eh I'd like to piddle around most of the time with say 270whp or so, but I would like the ability to hit the wick and lay down a solid 350-370whp when needed on pump gas. My friend is fixing to start putting some heavy mods on his LS1, I can't let him have all the fun.
My questions: If I want a good solid setup should I really fork out some more cash for a better turbo or manifold? Where would you spend your most money if you could only pick a few areas? Anything wrong with going with a B18B?
Any input in any area (swap, powertrain, drivetrain, fuel system) would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
. I was planning to do a pretty extensive all motor build for my ITR mainly due to the fact that it is starting to burn oil and I have nothing else to spend my money on. Well one of my good friends came down in his new turbo B18B hatch. Stock block, running 10lbs on a T3/T4 60trim, tuned conservatively with hondata. It short it freaking hauled ace and put about 4 car lengths on a stock LS1 within the span of 60mph (from a roll). Needless to say I was impressed.
I've decided to just build the R back OEM style (selling my 84.5mm CP pistons if anyone is interested
). I never bought it to be a drag car and will spend my money for its auto-x needs (where it actually excells). It will continue to be my very responsive all motor car, and besides it runs 13's (hopefully faster once its actually tuned on a dyno and not burning oil) so its not THAT slow.So now every time I walk out to my 91 Si beater car it whispers to me that it needs boost. I think I'm fixing to give in to its evil demands and come to the dark side.
Here is my newb plan.
Engine: B18B. Before I swap it in I'll throw in a set of forged rods and pistons (not going 2.0 liter with the R now so might as well waste money on something
). The reason I'm leaning toward the B18B is because I like how it produces similar torque and horspower numbers as opposed to a more peaky (yet more potential filled) B18C.Turbo: A proper T3/T4 setup. Old but it works. Since I already have a nice all motor car I could really care less about lag. As long as it makes the power where it needs it I'll be happy.
Manifold: Just a high quality log style.
Intercooler: I'll spend good money here, cool air = da good.
Fuel management: Hondata of course.
Wastegate: Tial 38mm
BOV: DSM should work right?
My wants: Eh I'd like to piddle around most of the time with say 270whp or so, but I would like the ability to hit the wick and lay down a solid 350-370whp when needed on pump gas. My friend is fixing to start putting some heavy mods on his LS1, I can't let him have all the fun.
My questions: If I want a good solid setup should I really fork out some more cash for a better turbo or manifold? Where would you spend your most money if you could only pick a few areas? Anything wrong with going with a B18B?
Any input in any area (swap, powertrain, drivetrain, fuel system) would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Fuel is somthin not to skimp out on. Injectors and a pump along with your Hondata. Dont forget your gonna have to convert to obd1 to run it. If you dont want to do that, try turboedit. Free standalone. still in beta versions but by the time you need it, it will be well on its way from being bug fee. As for a manifold, try http://www.lovefab.com hes got shorty manifold that will support 400+hp for 300 bucks. Search around a lil bit and see what you can dig up... IM me if you have ne more questions.
Blaze
Blaze
Lovefab's shorty manifold is a great choice, i'm using one on my DA and it's nice. The DSM bov works great, I'm also using one and it sounds awesome. Hondata is a good choice for fuel management, paired with some large injectors (RC and Precision, to name a couple). Since your goals will require you to run 12+ pounds, internals are a good choice, glad to see you have money
Here is a thread about the B18C vs the B18B argument https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=717595
Precison SC series turbos are a good choice and are quite popular on here, or you could be a balla and run a Garret GT series turbo
Here is a thread about the B18C vs the B18B argument https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=717595
Precison SC series turbos are a good choice and are quite popular on here, or you could be a balla and run a Garret GT series turbo
heres my setup ill be runnin soon str blockguard inline pro log mani
sc34 precision turbo
custom 2.5 in dp
inline pro intercooler piping
tial 38mm wastegate
hks ssq bov
precision 31.5x8.0x3.5 fmic
rc 550cc sat inj w obd2 clips
walboro 255lph in tank fuel pump
cometic headgasket
str block guard
hondata s200b p28 ecu
cm stage 4
sc34 precision turbo
custom 2.5 in dp
inline pro intercooler piping
tial 38mm wastegate
hks ssq bov
precision 31.5x8.0x3.5 fmic
rc 550cc sat inj w obd2 clips
walboro 255lph in tank fuel pump
cometic headgasket
str block guard
hondata s200b p28 ecu
cm stage 4
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuel is somthin not to skimp out on. Injectors and a pump along with your Hondata. Dont forget your gonna have to convert to obd1 to run it. If you dont want to do that, try turboedit. Free standalone. still in beta versions but by the time you need it, it will be well on its way from being bug fee. As for a manifold, try http://www.lovefab.com hes got shorty manifold that will support 400+hp for 300 bucks. Search around a lil bit and see what you can dig up... IM me if you have ne more questions.
Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I definitely won't skimp out on fuel. Like I stated Hondata will be used no questions asked along with properly sized injectors and an upgraded fuel pump.
Anyone think it would be wise to just upgrade my valvesprings? I would think the stock retainers would be fine as long as I don't push any rpm limits.
Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh I definitely won't skimp out on fuel. Like I stated Hondata will be used no questions asked along with properly sized injectors and an upgraded fuel pump.
Anyone think it would be wise to just upgrade my valvesprings? I would think the stock retainers would be fine as long as I don't push any rpm limits.
For a newb you seem to have done your research
Like others have said and you knwo don't skimp on fuel managament.
Turbo well i would look into the precision lineup, can't go wrong there.
Now the main thing is your power goals 350-375 isn't impossible with the Ls, it's just that when you get to running high boost and aiming for 350+ the Ls head just doesn't flow for ****.
I think with your setup you can meet you goal without touching the head, but it will play a big role in your #'s.
I can't remember his screen name, but he made a thread when his Ls almost made 400. I fim not mistaken it wsa stock head, stock sleeves,only forged pistons/rods and about 20 psi. I'm sure someone has a link. Fact is thier aren't alot of high hp Ls's because most that are aiming that high go with the Gsr motor.
If it were me I would make the hp goal a little smaller, tune to about 18-20 psi and aim for around 350
Just to keep things simple, trust me you be satisfied with 350 in a hatch, not to mention you'll be making an assload of torque.
Like others have said and you knwo don't skimp on fuel managament.
Turbo well i would look into the precision lineup, can't go wrong there.
Now the main thing is your power goals 350-375 isn't impossible with the Ls, it's just that when you get to running high boost and aiming for 350+ the Ls head just doesn't flow for ****.
I think with your setup you can meet you goal without touching the head, but it will play a big role in your #'s.
I can't remember his screen name, but he made a thread when his Ls almost made 400. I fim not mistaken it wsa stock head, stock sleeves,only forged pistons/rods and about 20 psi. I'm sure someone has a link. Fact is thier aren't alot of high hp Ls's because most that are aiming that high go with the Gsr motor.
If it were me I would make the hp goal a little smaller, tune to about 18-20 psi and aim for around 350
Just to keep things simple, trust me you be satisfied with 350 in a hatch, not to mention you'll be making an assload of torque.
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