i was wondering what i should go for next....i have about 500 dollars, should i continue to save? I was thinking of finishing off the OEM body kit with the rears andthe sides since i already have the front. anyways curent list of mods...I was thinking JDM headers, or apex ws cat-back.

aem cai w/bypass
h&r sports
tokico illuminas

 

you could probably get the rest of the oem kit and still have money for a used apexi ws

 

Well the is my look at it. You have 500, if I was you I would go for the exhaust (the apexi ws is the one i want to get) or some jdm header. Your car won't be any faster w/ the rest of the oem kit and w/ the front peice it already looks nice. But I'm more concerned w/ speed. I think my gsr lowered w/ a front lip would look nice enough. So my advice is header or exhaust.
Also, how is your suspension. How is the ride ? I am getting your exact same set up.
2000 GSR
aem cai
dc 4-1 cc header
h & r sports ( under my bed waiting for shocks )

 

my suspension is great. Cornering was much improved, and its pretty stiff on the stiffest setting...people were saying its too soft, but for me its a lil too stiff. It all depends on you i guess. THe softest setting feels like stock or even a little more soft...Yeah, i like the look of my car, but i think the rest of the OEM kit would complete my look. the thing holding me back from it is that i'd have to get it repainted. That itself will cost more then the sides and rear skirts, so i was thinking of forgetting that and going for some performance. for the JDM 4-1 header, whats everything i need? i heard i need a new cat convert, cat collector (whats that?). sorry i'm still a newbie at this.

 

You should still w/ performance mods imo. For the JDM header, you will need a 2.5 inch collecter. I'm pretty sure thats it..check out mintydip's site. he has detalied intructions on how to put them in and what you need. You also need longer bolt to connect.
I have to run but i'll be back to tell you exactly what you need.

 

I don't have a GSR, but w/ my Rota Sub Zeros were $450 (no tires) and now i have another $500 and i'm savin for a Drag turbo.

 

how much would a drag tubo cost anyways? around 3000-4000? lol thats a big range. If thats the case, i guess thats way out of my budget cause i'm making like 6.40/hour.

 

SAVE IT!!!!!!!!. and get cams !!! then someone drives up next to you they cannot see your cams like they notice a muffler. I would have more respect for a guy that has no external mods then a guy with. makes it a lil more of a sleeper!

 

Yea but w/ cams you need cam gear, v tec controller, tuning, and you need some other basic stuff before you go into cams ect. Like header and exhaust..baby steps, baby steps

 

i would say to go with a set of crower 63401's that way you can use all your stock equipment and upgrade later for more tuneablity

 

Nice car! I just installed my Koni Yellows w/ Tanabe springs and I love it. My mods are basically the same as yours. What I would definitely recommend for you is a ITR or Comptech Swaybar. I would go with ITR because of the price and it's OEM. That will definitely make the biggest handling difference in your car. The ITR bar w/ everything needed runs around $100-150 and I belive the Comptech kit is around $250-$300? After that I would complete the bodykit, it looks really clean all together, Slowerthanu has pictures of it which he'll post sometime and then you can see my setup. If your going for power, N/A, I would definitely save up and buy ITR or better cams. Good luck on what you do.

 

thanks. I was thinking of the ITR swaybar. but i've heard that the fit isn't perfect, and that'd i've have to drill some holes into my chassis. I don't really wanna tear up my chassis like that. Are the kits out there for the itr sway bar made so that you don't have to do any modifications? Is it worth getting a lower tie bar or a rear strut tower bar? Before i buy cams, do you guys think i should get headers and exhaust first? Maybe i shall save up for cams/camgears/vtec controller...should i buy new pistons too? Man...my car only has 2600 miles on it and i'm already talking about stripping it basically. this feels weird.

 

get the Itr rear sway bar and beaks kit
ask carlex for the whole package deal and u will have money left over.
Jdm header with cat,gasket, flange,etc will cost you almost $600. again go with carlex w/ import specialists since they can give you everything at once and u bolt it right on. seems u want to complete the look of ur teg. finish with the body kit,
get the rear sway bar then save ur $$ for future engine mods.

 

Your definitely welcome. I have the ITR bar with Beaks kit. The Beaks kit is somewhat pricey ($60), in comparison to Bret's BSQ kit, but reinforces both the inner and outer subframe. Looks nice too. You have to drill new holes which isn't hard at all and there are no problems with fitment. Just make sure you install the sway bar the correct way. If you do decide to get it and run into any problems you can always e-mail me or ask anyone else here on the board. It gets rid of practically all bodyroll and is huge in comparison to our stock bar (14mm vs. 24mm). I would definitely recommend it as well as most people on the boards. Next, I would finish off your body kit, just to complete the look. I'm on the same route as you though as far as power. I'm thinking turbo, but not sure due to reliability and money. If your going cams, which I most likely will I will go with a ITR setup with ITR valve springs and retainers and a ITR ECU which will complete my setup. Then I just need a JDM Header and an exhaust. I would go on....if you have AOL/AIM my name is Idyfohu and we can talk further, I would go on, but I'm tired as hell and I have to wake up soon, so good luck again, and IM me anytime.

 

is it true with the type r sway bar that if you get type r lower control arms that the kits are unnecessary? I thought that was the point of those, can anyone confirm or deny. if so, that is one way to avoid drilling.....

 

inigo9910,

What is that thing you call a car?

Rice, rice baby!

Trench

 

I just love the picture, i don't think i could ever weld a stove pipe to the back of my car even if you paid me.....

 

i say get the headers and then the exhaust..depends if you want show or go??

 

This is not true. The only reason that you would need Type-R rear lower control arms (LCA) is if you wanted to use Type-R rear shocks. Type-R rear shocks mount differently to the LCA, therefore different LCA are required.

 

i'm more towards go since i'm satisfied with the current appearance of my car. Maybe an ITR wing or OEM sides/rear kit. I don't think i'm going to go any farther than that though.

i still don't know if i want to do f/i or n/a. What kinda problems to f/i users have and what kinda problems to n/a people have?


[Modified by B-18C1, 10:24 PM 10/18/2001]