As per my previous thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothreadid=760149
I was having bleeding problems. I got some plumbers sealent from the hardware store and the speed bleeders don't seem to be letting air in anymore; I have bled a few times and not had any air comming out (will confirm this again this weekend).

So now here is what is happening. At first start of the car the pedal is firm. After driving, when comming to the stop the pedal will feel softer, but if I double pump the brake it is them firm. At hard stops the pedal goes down farther and does not feel as firm (i.e. under hard breaking, pedal feel is not as firm).

Ideas? I am getting sick of this.

 

sounds like your M/C is about to take a crap. It'll be worse when the ambient temperature gets hotter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like your M/C is about to take a crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ what he said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It'll be worse when the ambient temperature gets hotter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that shouldn't be a problem in AZ.

Guess I better look for a new MC. I assume there is not re-conditioning kit for the factory one?

 

Autozone/napa/advanceauto/etc remans are about $50 (after core charge) and are OE units.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well that shouldn't be a problem in AZ.

Guess I better look for a new MC. I assume there is not re-conditioning kit for the factory one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, there isn't.

You could get what RJ mentioned OR you go the OEM route.

 

Is there any better way to test an MC going bad?

I am all about going OEM for stuff like this, but it is a good chunk of change; I want to be sure my MC is going.

Can someone give me some tests/symptoms I can further explore?

Could really use people's help on this.

 

If you have to pump the pedal a few times to get pressure, the MC is toast.

Seems to be a common failure item on integras if you do not take caution to limit pedal travel when bleeding/flushing brakes.

 

Ok, thanks.

Think I can get the dealer to replace under warranty?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think I can get the dealer to replace under warranty?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Possibly.

But i wouldnt count on it, since the fluid has been flushed out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any better way to test an MC going bad?

I am all about going OEM for stuff like this, but it is a good chunk of change; I want to be sure my MC is going.

Can someone give me some tests/symptoms I can further explore?

Could really use people's help on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just replace it.. it's worth the $50 at autozone or $125 on here in classifieds for OEM pieces..

 

Another quick question.

I bled again today and found more air in almost all the lines (except the drivers side front caliper). I have Speedbleeders; what makes the stock bleed screws better, speaking in the sense of air leaking in through the threads? If I had air leaking in because of the speedbleeders through the threads; how would using stock bleed screws correct this problem?

I am trying to make sure I don't replace the MC when it is actuall the speedbleeders causing the problem. Furthermore, I don't want to replace the Speedbleeders with stock bleed screws if air will leak in through the threads in the same way (assuming that was happening with the speedbleeders).

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated!

 

Chris - if you want to elimiate any equipment related problem from your brake problem, why don't you get another person to help you out & do old fashioned two-people brake fluid flush?

I'm sure there are people in the area that could help out. Heck, my dad helped me flush my brakes once... all he had to do was step on the brake pedal repeated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have Speedbleeders</TD></TR></TABLE>

Said it before... here goes again.

Throw the speedbleeders away, put the OEM bleed screws back in (or get new ones) and get someone who knows what they're doing to help you bleed the brakes.

Replacing the MC is only going to cause you more headaches since you've clearly got other problems with the system.

 

Okay, will get a new set of OEM bleed screws right now, and will try the old fasioned bleeding procedure.

When I install the OEM bleedscrews; do I need to put any type of thread sealant (sp?) on them, or just screw them in as is?

Thanks again for the help guys!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I install the OEM bleedscrews; do I need to put any type of thread sealant (sp?) on them, or just screw them in as is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone answer this question?

 

ttt

 

OEM bleed screws do not require thread sealant or teflon tape.

 

Thanks, will let this thread die now