I've lowered my car around 1.75 in the front and around 1.5 in the back.

Now today I went and got it aligned. It was pulling to the right.

These are the numbers Front

Camber Left- -1.0 Right -1.3

Caster 0.4 0.8

Toe 0.05 0.04

Back is as follows

left camber -1.2 Right -0.8

Toe left 0.03 Toe Right 0.06


Now he wanted me to get a camber kit but, I think I'll hold off from all of the horror stories. He put the toe in to compensate for the camber

Are these decent. He said these would be great for handling. But may wear the inside out.

 

Not that bad, you could always do the washer/bolt trick in the rear. For the front you could get some adjustable ball joints from progress and it'd make it better up to 1 degree, they're pretty inexpensive as well..

 

ingalls kit on mine, all around... works great.

 

I just dropped mine 3 days ago on Type Flex. Installed the following to compensate for camber:

SPC Rear (Work great!!)
Skunk 2 Front
SRR Rear Lower Control Arms

Have yet to get it aligned, but I just put it back in storage for the rest of winter, so an alignment will come first thing this summer. What should I be looking for in terms of toe and camber?

 

0.00

 

do the srr do anything to your camber in the back or is just for looks?

 

Forget the camber. Negative camber is good for handling, and you don't have all that much anyway.

Have him set the toe as close to possible to factory specs, or else its going to cause you uneven tire wear. A bad toe setting will ruin a tire much faster than a bad camber setting.

Why would he "compensate" the camber by adding toe-in? Sounds like a shitty alignment tech to me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stickercuttingcom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">0.00</TD></TR></TABLE>
. . . feels like *** from a handling perspective.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcroc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do the srr do anything to your camber in the back or is just for looks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually forgot to measure both arms when they were out, but I am almost positive the SRRs are shorter. I can check tomorrow if anyone is enterested.

 

[QUOTE=Targa250R]Forget the camber. Negative camber is good for handling, and you don't have all that much anyway.

Have him set the toe as close to possible to factory specs, or else its going to cause you uneven tire wear. A bad toe setting will ruin a tire much faster than a bad camber setting.

Why would he "compensate" the camber by adding toe-in? Sounds like a shitty alignment tech to me.
QUOTE]

Thats why i got the adjustable ball joints they were only like 75 bucks for a pair and it fixed my camber 1 degree so it's still off about .3-.4 degree, which i think is almost ideal for me. A little better handling and not much tire wear.

 

i would have just told him to set you toe to 0

 

I run no caster, -2.3/-1.5 and 1/8 toe out/0. My tires wear even steven.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would have just told him to set you toe to 0</TD></TR></TABLE> 1.5 negative camber will be almost un-noticeable in the tire wear aspect. I have around -2.0 on both l&r. Rear is around-1.0 on both. Toe is what HURTS your tires. But i'd say that amount is ok that you have there. but as stated above, sounds like a lazy dick of an alignment specialist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run no caster, -2.3/-1.5 and 1/8 toe out/0. My tires wear even steven.</TD></TR></TABLE>

caster has nothing to do with tire wear and isn't adjustable anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GARBhatch. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 1.5 negative camber will be almost un-noticeable in the tire wear aspect. I have around -2.0 on both l&r. Rear is around-1.0 on both. Toe is what HURTS your tires. But i'd say that amount is ok that you have there. but as stated above, sounds like a lazy dick of an alignment specialist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was some old guy. he could compinsate the toe and it would help the camber out. The front tires aren't even turning out. But the car should handle good.
I'm not worred about the tires. When I get some cash im getting new wheels and tires. Still kickin wit the steelies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankdatank &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

caster has nothing to do with tire wear and isn't adjustable anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't as "easily adjustable", but you can make it happen. Running "0" caster means no camber change when the wheels turn aka no (or very little) self centering in the steering.

Now as far as nothing to do with tire wear? Get serious. Incorrect Caster settings is what causes all the ricers out there who slam there cars without getting alignments excessive shoulder wear. You can easily tell this by the tread blocks showing a steady degrade of the tread pattern from out to in.

This is commonly mistake for "to much negative camber".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Now as far as nothing to do with tire wear? Get serious. Incorrect Caster settings is what causes all the ricers out there who slam there cars without getting alignments excessive shoulder wear. You can easily tell this by the tread blocks showing a steady degrade of the tread pattern from out to in.

This is commonly mistake for "to much negative camber".</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh caster only helps as SAI also in handling i.e. returnablity.. if you have 0 caster and you make a turn your wheel will not return to it's straight postion but just hold there like memory steering. if your talking about Toe during steering or caster sweep thats a different story .
Now when these ricers(as you stated) slam their cars you do get excessive camber and you also change toe.. now if you did your homework 2 of the angles that do the most damage on tire is Toe which is like dragging your tire as your drving down the road and there is camber which is like riding on the side of the tire.
What you metioned about the tires wearing from one side to the other is called feathering where your dragging the tire down the road with camber so your toe is out of spec.

Your best settings is to make it factory spec then alter from there. I will not disagree alittle bit of negative camber is good but thre is a limit to how much you can do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh caster only helps as SAI also in handling i.e. returnablity.. if you have 0 caster and you make a turn your wheel will not return to it's straight postion but just hold there like memory steering. if your talking about Toe during steering or caster sweep thats a different story .
Now when these ricers(as you stated) slam their cars you do get excessive camber and you also change toe.. now if you did your homework 2 of the angles that do the most damage on tire is Toe which is like dragging your tire as your drving down the road and there is camber which is like riding on the side of the tire.
What you metioned about the tires wearing from one side to the other is called feathering where your dragging the tire down the road with camber so your toe is out of spec.

Your best settings is to make it factory spec then alter from there. I will not disagree alittle bit of negative camber is good but thre is a limit to how much you can do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are very sorely mistaken. Caster is the best angle you can add to your car and you should add as much as you can until the wheel almost contacts the front of your wheel well. Caster has the effect of giving you negative camber on the front tires in the turns without having the negative camber when you're driving straight. It also has the added benefit of making your car less likely to bottom if it's lowered on decent springs, because the wheels are further forward resulting in less overhang.

It's not adjustable from the factory but you can either buy a kit or put some washers between the two pieces of your front control arms.

What causes tire wear for ricers is their idiocy transmitted to the tires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are very sorely mistaken. Caster is the best angle you can add to your car and you should add as much as you can until the wheel almost contacts the front of your wheel well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no doubt that some caster is good, but as with everything, too much of something good can actually be bad.

Ground Control posted an interesting blurb on the effect too much caster on cornerweights in the rear.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What causes tire wear for ricers is their idiocy transmitted to the tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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