anyway to tell if its the alt. or just the belt?
as the tittle said can you just tell if i need a new belt or a whole new altanator? when i drive it its fine unless i have the heater or lights on or if i drop my rpms alot comin to a stop from speeds. and last nite i drifted down a hill to a stop and by the time i got to the light my lights and radio cut off.
untill i gave it more gas.
untill i gave it more gas.
I don't really think it's either.
I'm sure it's not your timing belt if your car is running. Honda's are interference engines if you timing belt was broken you would most likely right now have valvetrain soup. Although if you're saying things aren't getting power from the alternator (accessories and such) then most likely it's the alternator.
I'm sure it's not your timing belt if your car is running. Honda's are interference engines if you timing belt was broken you would most likely right now have valvetrain soup. Although if you're saying things aren't getting power from the alternator (accessories and such) then most likely it's the alternator.
i had my alt go out. but im pretty sure my batt light doesnt work becasue it never came on. and it never came on when my batt died either. and i checked the light in the cluster and it was fine. but anywho. hope you get that thing fixed.
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Why not test the alternator out to see if it is working correctly...
TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15–20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15–20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.
Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drewthomas14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah my car squeeks like a motha hoe.
noob question : where's a good place to get a new belt and how much?
thanks,
drew</TD></TR></TABLE>
Autozone, there 6 bucks there.
noob question : where's a good place to get a new belt and how much?
thanks,
drew</TD></TR></TABLE>
Autozone, there 6 bucks there.
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