lbj (lower ball joint)
i was removing the lower ball joint when i messed up the thread. I just got another one but i don't know how to take the old one off. I have a helms and they got a special tool to get it off. I can't seem to find where i can get one. Can someone tell me how to get it off without the tool or do i have to out to find the tool to remove the lower ball joint so i can install a new one. Help me please I need my car
Modified by integraGSR213 at 9:41 PM 2/23/2004
Modified by integraGSR213 at 9:41 PM 2/23/2004
well, they are pressed in...and the tool kinda looks like a "C" clamp in a way...
I dunno if there is anyway for you to remove it other than put a metal rod on top of it, and pound like hell with a B.F.H.
I don't know if I would do that though.
I dunno if there is anyway for you to remove it other than put a metal rod on top of it, and pound like hell with a B.F.H.
I don't know if I would do that though.
yeah that is what i am trying to figure out. It looks like a clamp. with a tool (looks like a socket) to press the bottom part of the joint out. But there is a another tool on top so it gives it room to come out. the clamps are pressing against both sides. i don't know where to get that tool. i tried to hammer it out but it is not working. damn i need help
need a circlip remover/installer - like a pliers with points to expand the clip out of its ring grove - kinda like a how a piston ring sits. then pound balljoint out - if you messed up the thread you might be able to use a die to clean the threads while still in LCA.
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You can get them off with a flat blade screwdriver, it just takes a little longer. After you get the clip off you can pound out the old one. The originals on my '90 had 160K on them and they came out without too much effort. The new ones go in the same way, but you have to make sure you get it in there straight or you'll pound and pound and it won't go anywhere.
This really sounds like a case of take it to a mechanic kind of deal, where, hopefully, he won't charge tooooo much extra for fixing the "work" you have done.
Our labour rates are:
$85/hr
$95/hr if you watch
$105/hr if you help
$150/hr if you worked on it yourself..
Our labour rates are:
$85/hr
$95/hr if you watch
$105/hr if you help
$150/hr if you worked on it yourself..
i just changed both of mine yesterday
i had the knuckle out though
so i put the kunckle on a vice and i just hit the bottom of the ball joint with a hammer to get it out. u have to hit it really hard
then i just hammared the new one in
it was really easy just hit it really really hard with a hammer
i had the knuckle out though
so i put the kunckle on a vice and i just hit the bottom of the ball joint with a hammer to get it out. u have to hit it really hard
then i just hammared the new one in
it was really easy just hit it really really hard with a hammer
i went to autozone to get the ball joint press but the tubing is too big for acuras. It does not fit. I am having so many problems just removing this ball joint. Does anyone know if a puller such as the pitman or a universal puller would be able to remove the ball joint. I need help bad, I need to use my car to drive to school. Please I am getting desperate.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,019
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This really sounds like a case of take it to a mechanic kind of deal, where, hopefully, he won't charge tooooo much extra for fixing the "work" you have done.
Our labour rates are:
$85/hr
$95/hr if you watch
$105/hr if you help
$150/hr if you worked on it yourself..</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha are you being serious? Do you actually let people help and/or do stuff themselves and charge more??
Most places don't allow it just because of insurance reasons.
Luckily my friend lets me work on my car for free at the car dealer where he works.
Our labour rates are:
$85/hr
$95/hr if you watch
$105/hr if you help
$150/hr if you worked on it yourself..</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha are you being serious? Do you actually let people help and/or do stuff themselves and charge more??
Most places don't allow it just because of insurance reasons.Luckily my friend lets me work on my car for free at the car dealer where he works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
haha are you being serious? Do you actually let people help and/or do stuff themselves and charge more??
Most places don't allow it just because of insurance reasons.
Luckily my friend lets me work on my car for free at the car dealer where he works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
HA HA HA...I wish we could.
Although, if someone has worked on the car themselves, and they messed everything up, we will charge extra to do the work, usually about 50% more.
haha are you being serious? Do you actually let people help and/or do stuff themselves and charge more??
Most places don't allow it just because of insurance reasons.Luckily my friend lets me work on my car for free at the car dealer where he works.
</TD></TR></TABLE>HA HA HA...I wish we could.
Although, if someone has worked on the car themselves, and they messed everything up, we will charge extra to do the work, usually about 50% more.
Which part are you having problems getting off? The stud where it goes through the lower control arm, or the body of the joint where it is pressed into the knuckle?
This job is not that hard, seriously, it's one of the few jobs where about the only tool you need is a bfh. Take the castle nut off the ball joint stud and pound the stud till it pops out. If you want to do it right get the pitman arm puller at autozone. They do sell/loan one that works, thats where i got mine and it's one of my favorite tool. Anyway if you've got the knuckle out of the car remove the circlip and pound trhe hell out of the ball joint until it comes out. Not that hard at all
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