Headlight bulbs keep blowing out?
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From: Aye BaY BaY, california, usa
I have been through 2 sets of 9006 bulbs...they blow out now....what can be the reason.....I am running a hondata p28 ecu now...can that be the problem...any fuses i can check??...thnx
Make sure not to touch the glass of the bulbs when you are changing them. The oils in your skin get on the glass and can cause the bulb to fail prematurely.
are these stock bulbs? or those lame *** high wattage output blue hyper white y0 bulbs? I used to blow those lame *** blue hyper white y0 bulbs all the time. they are garbage, and from what I understand, there is too much heat generated in the projector housing that causes these LAME bulbs to fail. Stock bulbs dont have a problem, and currently Im running a set of PIAA bulbs that have been in the car a very long time with no problem. You get what you pay for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are these stock bulbs? or those lame *** high wattage output blue hyper white y0 bulbs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you nailed it.
I think you nailed it.
I think some of you guys should take a course on basic electricity 
Fuse is for over current protection. If the fuse was blown there would be no path for current flow and therefore your lights would not even turn on. So unless you've changed your stock low beam fuse to a higher amp rating, or your lights don't turn on at all theres no need to check the fuse.
Since when does a voltmeter measure output power? That's what a wattmeter is for
. And besides, even if you meant to say output voltage, voltage is proportional to current (I=1/R*V)- if he's getting less than 14V-12V input to his bulbs, that means less current pushing through the filament which equals less light output (P=IV). So checking the output voltage is redundant.
Halogen bulbs tend to fail because the filament falls off due to excessive on/off operation, excessive current flow through the filament causing it overheat and melt off (which i doubt in your case otherwise your stock fuse would have blown). If you touch the bulb with your fingers, when the bulb heats up the pores in the glass will open allowing the oil from your fingers to permeate through the glass structure. Since the oil heats up faster, and has a lower heating point than glass it will cause the glass to deform and possibly explode.
Modified by phackoff at 7:26 PM 2/16/2004

Fuse is for over current protection. If the fuse was blown there would be no path for current flow and therefore your lights would not even turn on. So unless you've changed your stock low beam fuse to a higher amp rating, or your lights don't turn on at all theres no need to check the fuse.
Since when does a voltmeter measure output power? That's what a wattmeter is for
. And besides, even if you meant to say output voltage, voltage is proportional to current (I=1/R*V)- if he's getting less than 14V-12V input to his bulbs, that means less current pushing through the filament which equals less light output (P=IV). So checking the output voltage is redundant.Halogen bulbs tend to fail because the filament falls off due to excessive on/off operation, excessive current flow through the filament causing it overheat and melt off (which i doubt in your case otherwise your stock fuse would have blown). If you touch the bulb with your fingers, when the bulb heats up the pores in the glass will open allowing the oil from your fingers to permeate through the glass structure. Since the oil heats up faster, and has a lower heating point than glass it will cause the glass to deform and possibly explode.
Modified by phackoff at 7:26 PM 2/16/2004
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure not to touch the glass of the bulbs when you are changing them. The oils in your skin get on the glass and can cause the bulb to fail prematurely.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that... dont touch the glass with your fingers
I second that... dont touch the glass with your fingers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phackoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Halogen bulbs tend to fail because the filament falls off due to excessive on/off operation, excessive current flow through the filament causing it overheat and melt off (which i doubt in your case otherwise your stock fuse would have blown). If you touch the bulb with your fingers, when the bulb heats up the pores in the glass will open allowing the oil from your fingers to permeate through the glass structure. Since the oil heats up faster, and has a lower heating point than glass it will cause the glass to deform and possibly explode.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wear powder-free latex or vinyl examination gloves when changing the bulbs.
Wear powder-free latex or vinyl examination gloves when changing the bulbs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crXBoy69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I second that... dont touch the glass with your fingers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bam. I bet that's it.
I second that... dont touch the glass with your fingers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bam. I bet that's it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Aye BaY BaY, california, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bam. I bet that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOPE ALL WRONG!!!...its stock oem 9006 bulbs from Acura, plus I use Latex gloves and i never touch the glass...c'mon folks i have a all motor Type R...i know these things
Bam. I bet that's it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOPE ALL WRONG!!!...its stock oem 9006 bulbs from Acura, plus I use Latex gloves and i never touch the glass...c'mon folks i have a all motor Type R...i know these things
here are some things u can check..
1. make sure your halogen fluid is topped off.
2. maybe the fuel maps in ur hondata p28 are conflicting with the signal.
3. make sure you have the bulbs in the correct place, side specific.
haha jk man, that really sucks. use a volt meter and check the power going through it. make sure all ur grounds are good.
1. make sure your halogen fluid is topped off.
2. maybe the fuel maps in ur hondata p28 are conflicting with the signal.
3. make sure you have the bulbs in the correct place, side specific.
haha jk man, that really sucks. use a volt meter and check the power going through it. make sure all ur grounds are good.
a volt meter will tell you nothing here. is what you care about is amperage, however they will never give you a spec. there is no way you can have more than 14.5 volts at the light because thats as high of voltage the alternator should achieve, and that is what the light is meant to run at. so if high current is running through it it is one of two things. low resistant bulb or another bulb in the system went out. get a wiring diagram- most likely cause is just a bad bulb. a bad ground would never cause a premature bulb failure, it would be a dim bulb. and the know it all guy- its not called a wattmeter, its a dmm or an ampmeter, and there should be no "output" voltage. you should never have voltage on ground. if you do you have a bad ground. but my advice is to make sure you have the right bulbs, replace them again and make sure every bulb wired in series or parallel is working. good luck.
how low does the car idle? you probably have a weak alternator. check idle voltage, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5. im guessing that it is not putting out sufficient current at idle, especially low idle. for one secure youre idle. at high idle the light will probably be bright but also check idle voltage and output. the alternator should be able to put out enough current at idle to keep the lights bright and keep the voltage at 13.5. if not replace it. the alternatar regulates by controlling field current. output increases with RPM but is regulated back down by opening and closing the field coil(through the internal voltage regulator). the alternator should be full fielding when the voltage is below 13.5. you can act as the regulator and full field the alternator with a screwdriver though a pin in the back of the alternator. however you need to know what pin to ground and if you havent done it before i would not recommend it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#0863 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just switch back to stockers</TD></TR></TABLE>
you must've missed his post above. he's using stock bulbs.
you must've missed his post above. he's using stock bulbs.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Aye BaY BaY, california, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bayarea13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how low does the car idle? you probably have a weak alternator. check idle voltage, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5. im guessing that it is not putting out sufficient current at idle, especially low idle. for one secure youre idle. at high idle the light will probably be bright but also check idle voltage and output. the alternator should be able to put out enough current at idle to keep the lights bright and keep the voltage at 13.5. if not replace it. the alternatar regulates by controlling field current. output increases with RPM but is regulated back down by opening and closing the field coil(through the internal voltage regulator). the alternator should be full fielding when the voltage is below 13.5. you can act as the regulator and full field the alternator with a screwdriver though a pin in the back of the alternator. however you need to know what pin to ground and if you havent done it before i would not recommend it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
good point!!!
will check this tomorrow morning..thnx
good point!!!
will check this tomorrow morning..thnx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hYpE-R-29 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NOPE ALL WRONG!!!...its stock oem 9006 bulbs from Acura, plus I use Latex gloves and i never touch the glass...c'mon folks i have a all motor Type R...i know these things
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Awesome
My lights dim when the idle drops too, I wouldn't worry about it..
NOPE ALL WRONG!!!...its stock oem 9006 bulbs from Acura, plus I use Latex gloves and i never touch the glass...c'mon folks i have a all motor Type R...i know these things
</TD></TR></TABLE>Awesome
My lights dim when the idle drops too, I wouldn't worry about it..
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