Retorquing ARP studs on a D16a6
I've put about 30 miles on my motor since i swapped the headgasket and installed the studs on this thing.
We tourqued them then double checked them; but im wondering if I need to retourque these things any time soon as they stretch?
Anyone have any input?
We tourqued them then double checked them; but im wondering if I need to retourque these things any time soon as they stretch?
Anyone have any input?
The purpose of following the ARP instructions is to stretch the studs a predetermined amount without having to use a strain gauge as a professional assemblier would. They are not to stretch over time.
However, the cylider head will settle on the HG and block with heat cycles. I usually retorque them after 10 full heat cycles. A heat cycle is warming up a motor that has been sitting for more than 5 hours.
However, the cylider head will settle on the HG and block with heat cycles. I usually retorque them after 10 full heat cycles. A heat cycle is warming up a motor that has been sitting for more than 5 hours.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The purpose of following the ARP instructions is to stretch the studs a predetermined amount without having to use a strain gauge as a professional assemblier would. They are not to stretch over time.
However, the cylider head will settle on the HG and block with heat cycles. I usually retorque them after 10 full heat cycles. A heat cycle is warming up a motor that has been sitting for more than 5 hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks!
I followed the instructions to the T!! I am/was deathly afraid I'd **** this headgasket up. I put on one before this and reused the head bolts (bad idea) and it blew in less than a week; even with no boost
then we checked for warpage, cleaned it up real good, and bought some studs and a new gasket
However, the cylider head will settle on the HG and block with heat cycles. I usually retorque them after 10 full heat cycles. A heat cycle is warming up a motor that has been sitting for more than 5 hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks!
I followed the instructions to the T!! I am/was deathly afraid I'd **** this headgasket up. I put on one before this and reused the head bolts (bad idea) and it blew in less than a week; even with no boost

then we checked for warpage, cleaned it up real good, and bought some studs and a new gasket
when most people go in to re-torque they usually dont budge, at least from my experience. but even with that said i dont think its a bad idea, at least worth doing it for the piece of mind
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gritsak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when most people go in to re-torque they usually dont budge</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly...
Exactly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Exactly...</TD></TR></TABLE>
so basically you are saying that if you have properly torqued ARP or AEBS headstuds in teh proper sequence that you do not need to retorque them?
i want ot know because i just finished putting my motor back together and was curious if i am going to have to tear apart my head again just to retorque them...
Exactly...</TD></TR></TABLE>
so basically you are saying that if you have properly torqued ARP or AEBS headstuds in teh proper sequence that you do not need to retorque them?
i want ot know because i just finished putting my motor back together and was curious if i am going to have to tear apart my head again just to retorque them...
Basically...I think they key is making sure the Stud is seated well.
Everytime I've tried to re-torque them, they don't budge.
Everytime I've tried to re-torque them, they don't budge.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so basically you are saying that if you have properly torqued ARP or AEBS headstuds in teh proper sequence that you do not need to retorque them?
i want ot know because i just finished putting my motor back together and was curious if i am going to have to tear apart my head again just to retorque them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
it shouldnt be any problem to retorque them,
I dont think you should have to tear apart your head or anything,
just take the valve cover off
at least thats how it is on dseries.. maybe bseries has some part of the head that blocks the bolts, requiring some dissasembly to torque them??
fill me in
so basically you are saying that if you have properly torqued ARP or AEBS headstuds in teh proper sequence that you do not need to retorque them?
i want ot know because i just finished putting my motor back together and was curious if i am going to have to tear apart my head again just to retorque them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
it shouldnt be any problem to retorque them,
I dont think you should have to tear apart your head or anything,
just take the valve cover off
at least thats how it is on dseries.. maybe bseries has some part of the head that blocks the bolts, requiring some dissasembly to torque them??
fill me in
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC B series heads have the head studs located underneath the camshaft. You must remove the cams to get to the studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ooooh..
that suckz
ooooh..
that suckz
I've never had the studs budge either, but i ALWAYS retorque them
Its really gay of honda to hide the heabolts. They usually do such a nice job with things like that. Their is no excuse either, because my DOHC 4g63 can be retorqued with the cams in place.
Its really gay of honda to hide the heabolts. They usually do such a nice job with things like that. Their is no excuse either, because my DOHC 4g63 can be retorqued with the cams in place.
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Sep 23, 2004 05:39 AM








