D-Series Turbo Header (pics)
After working several hours today i completed a D-series turbo header for picture and demonstrational purposes.. normally i make parts to order but im going to try to have these instock. I will not link people to my website where they can buy these. im simply displaying it. also i will accept suggestions to make them better... which is the main reason i make posts like this.
Specs on these headers:
- 316 Stainless Steel Tubes
- 304 Stainless Steel CNC machined Flanges
- Tapped T3 flange bolt holes for easier installation
- ONLY 45degree bends begin runners to allow exhaust gases to take shape of tubes before taking sharp bends. (improved exhaust flow)
- ONLY 2 SMALL radius bends used to avoid sharp bends in exhaust flow. (improved exhaust flow)
- Milled flat after welding (not sanded flat)
- TIG welded with 312 Stainless Steel TIG rod for high strength welds
The external wastegate flange is not welded on... setup in mill for maching flat is earier without it on.




Specs on these headers:
- 316 Stainless Steel Tubes
- 304 Stainless Steel CNC machined Flanges
- Tapped T3 flange bolt holes for easier installation
- ONLY 45degree bends begin runners to allow exhaust gases to take shape of tubes before taking sharp bends. (improved exhaust flow)
- ONLY 2 SMALL radius bends used to avoid sharp bends in exhaust flow. (improved exhaust flow)
- Milled flat after welding (not sanded flat)
- TIG welded with 312 Stainless Steel TIG rod for high strength welds
The external wastegate flange is not welded on... setup in mill for maching flat is earier without it on.
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Use more filler so here isn't a dip were the runners are welded together. Besides that, I like the use of 45's in place of 90's on runners 1 and 4. Should help flow compared to the other rams horns manifolds on the market.
And all this **** about copying a design. All these guys just copied it from nature.
Justin
And all this **** about copying a design. All these guys just copied it from nature.
Justin
i agree , you n eed more filler, looks like your skimpin out on it hehehe, also got any pics of the beads looks like you're overheating them, instead of gettin the nice shiny rainbow look which is key to a perfect heated weld. when they turn grey n black its overheated, compromising the strength of the weld.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by safe driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice mani... but be prepared to put on your flamesuit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't see why people would flame him..
BTW: nice manifold.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't see why people would flame him..
BTW: nice manifold.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: abitibi-temiscamingue, Quebec, Canada
Nice mani man,
a bit more filler rod would be nice,
and a bit hotter would be nice, a goldish color is preferable, with tint of blue in the weld would be perfect.
anyway, nice work
Kranked
a bit more filler rod would be nice,
and a bit hotter would be nice, a goldish color is preferable, with tint of blue in the weld would be perfect.
anyway, nice work
Kranked
email me with prices for it shipped at hot_male_69_69@hotmail.com
thanx justin
thanx justin
I prefer mild steel flanges as they don't undergo as much thermal expansion. At the very least, if you use SS flanges, make sure the bolt holes are sized to account for expansion.
Judging by the clean appearance of your manifold, you may already know this, just an $0.02.
As far as copying designs... go flame Eagle for copying Carillo.
Judging by the clean appearance of your manifold, you may already know this, just an $0.02.
As far as copying designs... go flame Eagle for copying Carillo.
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shadowstylz
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jul 7, 2003 10:05 AM



