Clutch problems... PLZ HELP
OK here is the prolem...
When i try to put the car into gear i put the clutch in...
and i move the stick to any gear...
it wont go in.
i cheaked the fluid and its full so thats not it
i drove through a puddle the day before it stoped workin
ive had suggestions of a broen likeage, and a messed up throwout bearing
any suggestions..
i actually have an acura 2.3cl but its basically the same car.
When i try to put the car into gear i put the clutch in...
and i move the stick to any gear...
it wont go in.
i cheaked the fluid and its full so thats not it
i drove through a puddle the day before it stoped workin
ive had suggestions of a broen likeage, and a messed up throwout bearing
any suggestions..
i actually have an acura 2.3cl but its basically the same car.
Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Turn off the engine, try to put it in gear. If that works, then try to start the engine. Be careful while you do this, the car might lurch forward if the clutch is locked up. Make sure there's room for the car to move without hitting anything. If the clutch is just dragging, it'll push against your brakes like an automatic tranny.
It might be that your clutch fluid needs to have the air bled out of it. Maybe your clutch master or slave cylinders are shot. It's even possible for your clutch disk or pressure plate is broken & some part is wedged in there, locking it up...
It might be that your clutch fluid needs to have the air bled out of it. Maybe your clutch master or slave cylinders are shot. It's even possible for your clutch disk or pressure plate is broken & some part is wedged in there, locking it up...
it dose lurch...
and it does feal like the clutch isnt disengaging but im dumb...
and broke so i cant take it an where...
is ther any way to check the master and slave?
and it does feal like the clutch isnt disengaging but im dumb...
and broke so i cant take it an where...
is ther any way to check the master and slave?
I think you'd be better to talk with someone who has the same car. Here's what you'll want...
Look at the clutch slave cylinder while someone pushes the clutch pedal in & out (engine not running). The slave pushes against a lever which goes into the transmission (that's the clutch fork). How much does the fork move? How much is it SUPPOSED to move for your year & model? (1"? 3/4"??)
Follow the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder - somewhere it changes into a rubber hose. Make sure that hose isn't blowing up like a balloon when you press the clutch pedal - if it is, it's shot & you need a new hose.
You say you checked your fluid... Are you talking about the clutch fluid in the little plastic reservoir near your brake fluid? (Checking your transmission fluid isn't the problem here.) Just checking the reservoir isn't enough. If there's air bubbles in the hydraulic system it'll do just what you describe. You would normally look for leaks, but if it were leaking, your reservoir would be low or empty.
Do you know how to bleed the clutch? Search for some instructions somewhere around here... I know I've seen a write-up. If you do that yourself it'll only cost you the price of a bottle of brake fluid. Maybe(?) it'll fix your problem. That's the best way to rule out the easy fix.
---
Instead of IM, maybe this'll help someone else if they find this thread by searching...
Modified by JimBlake at 4:46 PM 2/13/2004
Look at the clutch slave cylinder while someone pushes the clutch pedal in & out (engine not running). The slave pushes against a lever which goes into the transmission (that's the clutch fork). How much does the fork move? How much is it SUPPOSED to move for your year & model? (1"? 3/4"??)
Follow the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder - somewhere it changes into a rubber hose. Make sure that hose isn't blowing up like a balloon when you press the clutch pedal - if it is, it's shot & you need a new hose.
You say you checked your fluid... Are you talking about the clutch fluid in the little plastic reservoir near your brake fluid? (Checking your transmission fluid isn't the problem here.) Just checking the reservoir isn't enough. If there's air bubbles in the hydraulic system it'll do just what you describe. You would normally look for leaks, but if it were leaking, your reservoir would be low or empty.
Do you know how to bleed the clutch? Search for some instructions somewhere around here... I know I've seen a write-up. If you do that yourself it'll only cost you the price of a bottle of brake fluid. Maybe(?) it'll fix your problem. That's the best way to rule out the easy fix.
---
Instead of IM, maybe this'll help someone else if they find this thread by searching...
Modified by JimBlake at 4:46 PM 2/13/2004
I hate to revive this post from archive but I have exactly the same problem with my clutch - I even went through a massive puddle the night before (like the original poster wrote). It doesn't seem like it would be a coincidence. My fluid is normal and the clutch fork travel is also. I replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system about a year ago. I remember it didn't take much fork travel to begin disengaging the clutch. The clutch is absolutely locked in engaged position. I can start it in gear but the car takes off as if I don't even have the pedal depressed. Then when I brake to a stop the car stalls. There is no slippage at all. I can't imagine what a water puddle can do to cause this. By the way, I went through the puddle and drove normally a few more miles home and parked the car. Everything was OK. The problem didn't surface until the next morning when I was going to work. In these threads no one seemed to suggest what might have occured. I know the problem is not external to the clutch (fluid, cylinders, etc.) Any one have ideas?
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Since you've ruled out external hydraulic stuff, I think you got no alternative. I can think of a couple ways for this to happen...
Clutch fork broken.
Pivot ball for clutch fork broken.
Something broken off the pressure plate or clutch disk, wedging them together.
Seized pilot bearing.
Whichever it is, you STILL have to remove the tranny.
Clutch fork broken.
Pivot ball for clutch fork broken.
Something broken off the pressure plate or clutch disk, wedging them together.
Seized pilot bearing.
Whichever it is, you STILL have to remove the tranny.
I came to the same conclusion. The clutch fork and pivot ball are OK visually with good movement (travel). I'm thinking one of the springs on the clutch disk broke loose and is wedging everything together.
I'm not looking forward to this job.
I'll post after I get it torn down. Maybe someone else can benefit from what I find.
Thanks for the post.
I'm not looking forward to this job.
I'll post after I get it torn down. Maybe someone else can benefit from what I find.
Thanks for the post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might be that your clutch fluid needs to have the air bled out of it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
not saying its wrong, but if that were the case, wouldnt the pedal be mushy and just sink to the floor and have to be pulled back up?
not saying its wrong, but if that were the case, wouldnt the pedal be mushy and just sink to the floor and have to be pulled back up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drifter_for_life06 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not saying its wrong, but if that were the case, wouldnt the pedal be mushy and just sink to the floor and have to be pulled back up?</TD></TR></TABLE>That's most likely true. But from his first post, maybe it was happening that way. Besides, it's an easy thing to check & rule out.
Replacement clutch kit is in - whew!!!!! Lots of hours. Thought someone could benefit from what I found.
After going through a real deep puddle after work and parking overnight I couldn't disengage the clutch in the morning. I eliminated external problems (fluid, cylinders, fork, etc.) so I removed the tranny and clutch.
The clutch plate was fused to the pressure plate (but not the flywheel). It wasn't very hard to pry it off once the pressure plate was removed from the car but some clutch material stuck to the pressure plate when I pryed it off.
I showed it to a Honda certified mechanic and he couldn't believe that it only took overnight for it to be stuck together that much. He said he had seen that happen before when a car is salvaged from a flood and sat for months before being worked on.
Just thought I would post so you guys can keep it in the back of your mind if you ever see the same problem.
After going through a real deep puddle after work and parking overnight I couldn't disengage the clutch in the morning. I eliminated external problems (fluid, cylinders, fork, etc.) so I removed the tranny and clutch.
The clutch plate was fused to the pressure plate (but not the flywheel). It wasn't very hard to pry it off once the pressure plate was removed from the car but some clutch material stuck to the pressure plate when I pryed it off.
I showed it to a Honda certified mechanic and he couldn't believe that it only took overnight for it to be stuck together that much. He said he had seen that happen before when a car is salvaged from a flood and sat for months before being worked on.
Just thought I would post so you guys can keep it in the back of your mind if you ever see the same problem.
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Acura RSX DC5 & Honda Civic EP3
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