OK I have a H22/LSD hatch w/ Falken Azenis and 90% tread left. I cant grip for ****. I have to launch at 1500-2000rpm's, even 2k rpms is pushin it.. I want to here some opinions on a good street tires for 16" wheels. Thanks!!!!!

 

keep the 15" wheel...... DO BF-G drag radials...... Measure and go as big as u can, Even if it looks weird....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outkast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
keep the 15" wheel...... DO BF-G drag radials...... Measure and go as big as u can, Even if it looks weird.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said.

Sam

 

I say get some slicks on 14inch tire it wouldnt be the 1st time i saw a honda on slicks. If you want 16s get them I know fo someone who has a h22 in a hatch and maybe he couldnt drive but he spun so much he did a 15.1@ 100 mph so get slicks.

 

You need to learn how to drive. I got a 2.189 60ft with fully inflated Falken Ziex 512 tires. I also have no LSD. I launched at 3500 rpm's and feathered out the clutch gradually giving it gas. I'm not the best driver either but a lot of kids at the track with drag radilas were pulling 2.2's 2.3's. Only thing I must say is baby 2nd if you get a good 60ft time on regular street tires, I lost traction right when I shifted into second.

Edit: These were on 14' inch rims 195/60/14


Modified by Pat McGroin at 12:07 PM 2/11/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pat McGroin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I launched at 3500 rpm's and feathered out the clutch gradually giving it gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>



The pedals are not on/off buttons. (with street tires )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The pedals are not on/off buttons. (with street tires )</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol that sounds like im 15yrs old in driving school

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bl18t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


lol that sounds like im 15yrs old in driving school</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still get a kick out of guys who spin like heck and sort of half-brag about how fast their cars could be if they had traction... there's no excuses.. drive right. 120hp or 400hp.

 

Remember that suspension is one of the biggest keys to traction....is the car lowered? Is your camber off? This could make a huge difference in your available traction.

Do you want a car that is fast in a straight line only or a compromise between straight and cornering? If you only want to go fast straight then go with the drag radials....but my favorite street tire is a Hoosier wet road race tire.....in normal dry form they have one tread grove that runs the circumference of the tire...in wet form they sipe a full tread pattern into the tire...they're dot approved and run right around $200 bucks a tire....even is life is half because of softer compound who cares they're half as much. Sorry I don't remember the part number...but I found these when we turbo charged John Carmacks Ferrari F-50. I used the wets Hoosiers to replace the P-zeros that the 50 came with...big difference all around…straight and lateral.

another thing...if you're only interested in straight...have your car's camber adjusted to 0 degrees with the front jacked up about 2-3" this will simulate the cars dynamic height and where the tires run in their camber curves under acceleration.....the driving tips don't hurt either

Good luck!

 

Awesome info Fisch. $200 seems a little much for the Hoosier, anything cheaper you'd recommend? Also, what wheel would you recommend? Should i go with a stock rim like a 14x6, or should i go with something wider like a 15x.7.5" or something like that? How much do you think it'd help to jack the front end up?

 

Fisch, is this the tire you're referring to?

 

R3S03 are the ones we put on the f-50. We bought the P335/30ZR-18's for the rear...they don't offer that size in the wet tread so I traced the patterns off of the fronts onto the rears and siped them myself. I don't remember the size of the fronts but we bought the wets as is and I didn't have to do anything to them.

Hoosier will tell you not to run the drys on the highway even though they are dot approved. This is for good reason...originally we had just the drys on the back and the stock p-zeros on the front (the car has 800 hp, twins and on alcohol) because Carmack wanted more power down...but the car under-steered badly with the stickies in the back. The drys only have two tread grooves and they run around the circumference of the tire...no good for wet spots...ask Norwood, he spun it out on the highway . This is why I put a tread pattern on the back and wets on the front. The wets aren't dot approved because the groves aren’t cut by a machine...they're done by hand at Hoosier. They have to be cut by machine to be DOT approved. You should be able to find the sizes you need in the wets...find a friend to mount them, because of dot, a regular tire shop won't do it unless you know someone or pay under the table. Some shops will mount them if you bring just the rims in.

Anyway, hope that helps...these are currently my favorites for the street....closest to the best of both worlds that I've found.

PS just to clarify...you jack the car up just to set camber...you don't actually raise ride height. The best situation would be to lower the car as much as possible while maintaining good camber curves at dynamic (under acceleration) ride heights.

Good luck

 

what else can you do to aid traction?