Back in September, my then 190,000mile/9 year old engine had the head resurfaced because of a leaky head gasket and constant overheating problems the previous year and a half. The overheating problem came up in May 2002 during a hotlapping event at Buttonwillow. The main problem in May 2002 was a broken radiator. However, I'm assuming the overheating warped the head a little bit.

Between May 2002 and November 2002, the car was fine and didn't overheat. However, at my next event in November 2002, the car overheated on the first lap. I pulled off by the Star Mazda corner in Buttonwillow and stayed there the entire 15 minutes of my session. When the session ended, I started the car up and coasted the rest of the lap with the heater at full blast (no heat was coming out) and the needle in the red. I called it a day and put water in the radiator and drove the four hours home without incident. After that, the car started overheating in traffic. The heater at full blast slowed the needle ascent and once the car got moving, the needle went down (probably a combination of the air hitting the radiator and the increased rpm of the water pump).

I took my car to a Honda mechanic shop. The head was resurfaced and a new gasket installed. Everything was fine for a week until the car overheated in traffic. The rad. fan fuse blew. The needle hit the red for a few moments before I shut off the engine. I put in a new fuse and coolant and the car has been fine since September.

Now, my question is regarding the engine's durability. I'm planning on attending a hotlapping event at Buttonwillow in April. Will the engine be able to handle a hotlapping event after being resurfaced and getting a new head gasket? As far as I know, the head needing to be resurfaced was the only problem from the overheating. According to the mechanic, the rest of the engine stuff looks okay. The engine has 195,000 miles and still runs fine (no more overheating, no burning oil, still getting around 38mpg).

 

hi there.

before you go to the next track event, i'd do the following:

1. replace radiator with a DelSol VTEC unit (double thickness)
2. replace thermostat
3. replace water pump
4. compression test/leakdown test on motor
5. set timing to at or near stock

if 1 thru 4 is done, and you are running a mostly stock D16Z6, i don't see how it can be overheating. should run nice and cool, even on the hottest days....

good luck

todd

PS i have an almost brand new DelSol VTEC radiator for sale if you are looking; i took it out of my H1 car and replaced with a combination Howe racing radiator/oil cooler.

 

^ What he said. Near stock D series should have no overheating/cooling issues if everything is in good shape. The Del Sol radiator is an easy upgrade and might be worthwhile if the current radiator is old/questionable. Thermostat and water pump are also cheap insurance. As is a new fan belt (the pump is belt driven, right?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(the pump is belt driven, right?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right.

 

I've had three D16Z6's in the past two years in two different cars.

The first is on my 93 Civic Si Hatch. This was a strong motor and endured stop and go driving in NYC for 190k miles. Performed well in HS autocross, with several wins in NYC/NJ area and did well on several track sessions. The car was completely showroom stock (meaning dealer stock and not the SCCA class) and held up very well.

However, I've had the overheating issues with the D16Z6 on my 94 Civic EX Coupe. I too resurfaced and replaced the head gasket, but finally decided to swap it out. After I had the engine out, I checked all the water passages and looked for cracks in the block/cylinders. All checks out ok. No reason why the overheating. The motor did serve well... also 170k miles.

Now, that car has another D16Z6 with only 70k miles on it. Its run great on the street (in NYC traffic) the past 25k miles and I autocrossed it all last sumer (2 wins in HS in NYC/NJ area). I have not lapped on this motor yet, since I've converted my Integra as the track car. So, while I can't vouch for this motor working in lapping days, I'm guessing(hoping) it will be ok. The motor was only $300 bucks and a weekend to swap.

In the end, I've had two good motors and 1 go bad. But again, they last over 170k miles so I'm happy. Keep me informed on your situation. I'm interesting in finding out how your motor does because I'm thinking of converting the 94 EX Civic Coupe as a race since it just got recalssed to ITA for in 2005!




Modified by gsirnj at 4:31 PM 2/11/2004

 

I can vouch for the reliability of both a BONE STOCK D16Z6 and an IT prepped D16Z6. Things I would do before running at 10/10ths on a track with this motor are:

1) Get a larger radiator (either the "double thickness" del sol rad or a full frontal rad from 88-91 civic/crx or any integra)-I prefer the full frontal variety.
2) Get an oil cooler (a $100 B&M unit has worked great for me and is an easy install if done right the first time)
3) Make sure that if engine was rebuilt, factory bearing were used.
4) Overfill your oil a little (because you will burn a little while in vtec for extended periods of time)

My current engine has 22 races, 22 practice sessions, 22 qual sessions, and 6 hpde sessions and still seems pretty strong--knocking on wood as I type.

Glad to see others running this motor in a road course environment. Keep me posted of any other problems you encounter so I know what to look out for (if I haven't already encountered them).

You are probably pretty safe. When all else fails, go back to stock engine w/ more attention to keeping things cool.

Good luck

 

My Del Sol has been autocrosse and open tracked since it has had 90000 miles on it. It know hoas 140000 miles on it and still seems plenty strong.

 

im going to be doing my first HPDE at gingerman in July, and my z6 is basically stock. should i worry about replacing the radiator in my 93 si? how much does the del sol radiator usually cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outrun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back in September, my then 190,000mile/9 year old engine had the head resurfaced because of a leaky head gasket and constant overheating problems the previous year and a half. The overheating problem came up in May 2002 during a hotlapping event at Buttonwillow. The main problem in May 2002 was a broken radiator. However, I'm assuming the overheating warped the head a little bit.

Between May 2002 and November 2002, the car was fine and didn't overheat. However, at my next event in November 2002, the car overheated on the first lap. I pulled off by the Star Mazda corner in Buttonwillow and stayed there the entire 15 minutes of my session. When the session ended, I started the car up and coasted the rest of the lap with the heater at full blast (no heat was coming out) and the needle in the red. I called it a day and put water in the radiator and drove the four hours home without incident. After that, the car started overheating in traffic. The heater at full blast slowed the needle ascent and once the car got moving, the needle went down (probably a combination of the air hitting the radiator and the increased rpm of the water pump).

I took my car to a Honda mechanic shop. The head was resurfaced and a new gasket installed. Everything was fine for a week until the car overheated in traffic. The rad. fan fuse blew. The needle hit the red for a few moments before I shut off the engine. I put in a new fuse and coolant and the car has been fine since September.

Now, my question is regarding the engine's durability. I'm planning on attending a hotlapping event at Buttonwillow in April. Will the engine be able to handle a hotlapping event after being resurfaced and getting a new head gasket? As far as I know, the head needing to be resurfaced was the only problem from the overheating. According to the mechanic, the rest of the engine stuff looks okay. The engine has 195,000 miles and still runs fine (no more overheating, no burning oil, still getting around 38mpg).</TD></TR></TABLE>

What you described is pretty much what i've went through with my ol 88 Integra, D16A1. The problem is that once the engine overheats it is very likely that not just the head but the block itself needs resurfacing (decking). You can keep shaving heads and changing gaskets and the same problem will keep coming back because only 1/2 problem is solved each time. But the hassle of yanking the block and resurfacing it is not worth it. Might as well swap another (or same model) motor in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My Del Sol has been autocrosse and open tracked since it has had 90000 miles on it. It know hoas 140000 miles on it and still seems plenty strong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my coupe is very similar. it's been autocrossed and open tracked since 105k. she's got 212k on her now. still makes decent power, doesn't burn any oil, and gets 40mpg. other then maintenance stuff, the only other things i've had to replace were the radiator (new england salt ate through the thing), and the input shaft bearing on the tranny. the only time the motor had any cooling issues was when the radiator went bad. put a new stock one in, no problems since.

nate

 

I have been tracking my 99 Civic EX sedan for 5 years now and I have over 130,000 miles on the odo and about 6,000 track miles. I'm on my 3rd head gasket right now. The only major concern about this engine is the radiator is too small. Once you upgrade to a bigger one you should have a trouble free event. I still use the stock radiator now and I just turn the heater on and the air full blast all the time on the track. During summer it will still overheat and you have slow down to prevent blowing another head gasket.

Charleston

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com

 

Upgraded radiator...$100.
Not overheating and being able to keep your foot in it and stay at 10/10ths...PRICELESS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lyonel 13H4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Upgraded radiator...$100.
Not overheating and being able to keep your foot in it and stay at 10/10ths...PRICELESS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I treated my z6 with very little respect for the pas 3 years and it had a shaved head+new gasket on a stock bottom end with no over heating probs.
see video here(right click save)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

or heres another one

http://www3.sympatico.ca/vivekp/type-r2.wmv


I had a 90 teg rad which is full length 2 row and it did the job fine.

but I have a oil cooler too but you should be fine as long as the gasket is sealing fine and the rad is ok.

Make sure you're not leaning out either.

Also z6's use metal head gaskets which are very strong compared to the older A1's, A'6's but even a prolonged overheating will kill pop a metal gasket too