How To Mold Body Kit // Shave Mouldings
Really need help from a pictorial or a well written how to on how to mould my
body kit (looking for sides and rear to be moulded) and also need to know how
to shave my side mouldings. Any help would be appreciated as I dont have the
cash to throw at a bodyshop to do this. Hoping to use fiberglass
Thanks
body kit (looking for sides and rear to be moulded) and also need to know how
to shave my side mouldings. Any help would be appreciated as I dont have the
cash to throw at a bodyshop to do this. Hoping to use fiberglass
Thanks
Do a search. And if you have never done it before I wouldn't suggest learning how to on an import. Unless you plan on doing it the wrong way by just filling wholes with filler. Requires knowing how to weld and shape metal as well as many other things.
Another thread at the top of the list talking about the same thing.: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=759690
Another thread at the top of the list talking about the same thing.: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=759690
Search feature absolutely sucks to me now. i cant find anything like I used to be able to.
And no Im not going to a body shop like I said I dont have the money and I want the satisfaction of learning and doing it myself, instead of pissing my money away.
Need help
And no Im not going to a body shop like I said I dont have the money and I want the satisfaction of learning and doing it myself, instead of pissing my money away.
Need help
most people that mold there body kits on use fiberglass and theres instructions on it all you need is the mat, hardner and resin but if you plan on driving this car everyday then i wouldnt mold your kit on everyone i know that has its cracked due to the flex on the bumpers(using fiberglass is very messy and time consuming espically if its your first time)
shaving your mouldings im not sure what u drive but i have a 97 civic coupe and all you have to do is take off the molding and get some sheet metal and cut it to form and weld it in then use filler and make it all smooth then prime paint and clear then you are good to go
lol this will also cost you a lot of money unless u paint it or have macco do it
shaving your mouldings im not sure what u drive but i have a 97 civic coupe and all you have to do is take off the molding and get some sheet metal and cut it to form and weld it in then use filler and make it all smooth then prime paint and clear then you are good to go
lol this will also cost you a lot of money unless u paint it or have macco do it
o and if you dont have that much money then i wouldnt even bother cause i bet it would cost me over 500 to get all the materials
fiberglass resin, hardner, mat, bodyfiller, lots of sandpaper, paint, primer, clear for basically whole car, metal, masking paper and tape
fiberglass resin, hardner, mat, bodyfiller, lots of sandpaper, paint, primer, clear for basically whole car, metal, masking paper and tape
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You do need to fill the holes with metal. If you fill the holes with fiberglass they will come back to huant you. You defenatly don't want to use body filler, but I would do the work yourself, paint and body work is not that hard. It's just alot of work and it does take practice, but if you have the time and money to learn it. Paint and body work is very satisfing. Just make sure you research and experiment, to learn. If you can use some test panels or junkyard parts to practice on. That would be good idplace to start before work on your car, becase fixing bad paint and body work is very time consuming and expensive. good luck
if you dont use filler then what would u use. If i was to shave my mouldings after i welded my plate on im sure my metal wouldnt be perfect so id either use filler or metal glaze. If you can shave something and not use filler then id like to know what is used to get the metal smooth
You would weld sheet metal over the indent of the curve. But leave enough indent so you can put filler in after to make it smooth. Paint and body work is hard to do it right for a 1st timer. Best deal is bring it to a shop if you cant weld and do GOOD bodywork. I wouldnt recomend modling the bumpers cause the will crack eventualy at least Iv seen fronts crack more often than rears or sideskirts. You would use fiberglass resin then a lil filler to mold skirts,bumpers. If you shave your moldings and just slap a ton of filler instead of welding sheet metal expect it to fall off if someone slams you door on a cold day.
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shaved moldings actually do a get thumps up from me...but don't mold your kit. in the future, you'll most likely wanna take it off and since its molded it will be a major bitch. i love my kit, but i'm sick of dealing with how low it hangs so i wanna take it off. i cant because i molded my sideskirts on. just some advice to you even though it does look better molded its not always about looks
Use body filler in small amounts, never to fill anything deep. You can use filler to even it out just not to fill in the holes, because it will shrink and sink in. I never put more than a 1/4 on anything and the less the better, because body filler shrinks and may show imperfections in your work. Always straighten the metal as best you can. You have to remember fixing bad work is costly in time and money, but a job done right is some to be proud of, it's like a work of art.
To shave the side-moldings:
1.Take them off.
2.Get a small piece of metal about 3/4"x3/4" and glue a coathanger to the middle of it.
3.Then put the metal in the hole so you can't see the edges, whilst holding it up with the hanger.
4.The do 2 small tack welds to hold the metal in place, take off the hanger(should snap off) then repeat on all the holes.
5.Come back to the first one and weld along the edges to the metal is secure.
6. Get a dremel or another sand device and sand down the welds.
7. With a mix of bondo/bodyfiller paste an amount over the holes (each hole not along the whole door)
8. After drying sand down to a smooth finish.
9. Whilst sanding don't forget to slightly extend past the filler to the contours are even.
10.Prep with primer and sealer and you are set.
For the bodykit:
1.Align the front bumpers and fenders.
2. Inject glue/hardener between the fender and front bumper.
3. Allow to dry over night.
4. Then sand down the joining areas.
5. With bondo/bodyfiller spread over the joining area, do not be shy unless you want to seperate.
6. Sand down to make a smooth transition joint.
7. Regret what you just did as now you can't take your bumper off and after scraping the drive and hitting the speed bump your bumpers are ruined.
Good Luck, however, I would recommend a decent bodyshop for the modings as it can be tricky, not cheap though as time consuming.
1.Take them off.
2.Get a small piece of metal about 3/4"x3/4" and glue a coathanger to the middle of it.
3.Then put the metal in the hole so you can't see the edges, whilst holding it up with the hanger.
4.The do 2 small tack welds to hold the metal in place, take off the hanger(should snap off) then repeat on all the holes.
5.Come back to the first one and weld along the edges to the metal is secure.
6. Get a dremel or another sand device and sand down the welds.
7. With a mix of bondo/bodyfiller paste an amount over the holes (each hole not along the whole door)
8. After drying sand down to a smooth finish.
9. Whilst sanding don't forget to slightly extend past the filler to the contours are even.
10.Prep with primer and sealer and you are set.
For the bodykit:
1.Align the front bumpers and fenders.
2. Inject glue/hardener between the fender and front bumper.
3. Allow to dry over night.
4. Then sand down the joining areas.
5. With bondo/bodyfiller spread over the joining area, do not be shy unless you want to seperate.
6. Sand down to make a smooth transition joint.
7. Regret what you just did as now you can't take your bumper off and after scraping the drive and hitting the speed bump your bumpers are ruined.
Good Luck, however, I would recommend a decent bodyshop for the modings as it can be tricky, not cheap though as time consuming.
It did not seem that any one really answered your Q. I want to mold my kit on too. Did you pick up any other info other then whats on the post?
As for the moldings for my 92 teg the JDM ones are very slim compared to the USDM ones. I am going that rout I think. Just thought let you know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastacuralover »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It did not seem that any one really answered your Q.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you not read the post above yours, it doesn't get more detailed without pictures than that.
It did not seem that any one really answered your Q.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you not read the post above yours, it doesn't get more detailed without pictures than that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you not read the post above yours, it doesn't get more detailed without pictures than that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My bad just read the side molding part assumed it was all molding.
All of that is great info, what kind of glue/hardener do you suggest? joining areas is this the contact points between the car and the kit? would tiger hair aka kitty hair be better or worse then straight bondo? What about fiber glassing it any info that way or do you not suggest this?
Modified by fastacuralover at 1:43 AM 3/20/2004
Did you not read the post above yours, it doesn't get more detailed without pictures than that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My bad just read the side molding part assumed it was all molding.
All of that is great info, what kind of glue/hardener do you suggest? joining areas is this the contact points between the car and the kit? would tiger hair aka kitty hair be better or worse then straight bondo? What about fiber glassing it any info that way or do you not suggest this?
Modified by fastacuralover at 1:43 AM 3/20/2004
Your best bet is to go to your local finish store and see what products they sell. It really depends on the two surface areas, is it Fibergalss to metal or urethane to metal.
As far as the contact areas yes where the body and kit will meet. You need to be patient and take your time. Again your finish store should have what you are after. You could maybe use fiberglass but wouldn't recommend it to join. find a glue hardner to join, the body filler around this to give the smooth appearence, fiberglass would crack too easily.
BTW, I had my front bumpers and fenders molded together, let me tell I will never go down that road. You can't take the bumpers off, and after 2 months I scraped on a driveway and the passenger side split. However it does work well on some sideskirt designs.
Your best bet is to go to a local reputable body shop and see what there estimates are. Just to give you an idea, when I had my car painted, it cost me an extra $50 for them to shave the sides of the car.
If you are doing it yourself, take your time and treat it like art, ie look at it from all angles, get other people to look at it for you inspect it and such. Remember if the body work is crap the finish product will be crap.
As far as the contact areas yes where the body and kit will meet. You need to be patient and take your time. Again your finish store should have what you are after. You could maybe use fiberglass but wouldn't recommend it to join. find a glue hardner to join, the body filler around this to give the smooth appearence, fiberglass would crack too easily.
BTW, I had my front bumpers and fenders molded together, let me tell I will never go down that road. You can't take the bumpers off, and after 2 months I scraped on a driveway and the passenger side split. However it does work well on some sideskirt designs.
Your best bet is to go to a local reputable body shop and see what there estimates are. Just to give you an idea, when I had my car painted, it cost me an extra $50 for them to shave the sides of the car.
If you are doing it yourself, take your time and treat it like art, ie look at it from all angles, get other people to look at it for you inspect it and such. Remember if the body work is crap the finish product will be crap.
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