Today I went to my mechanic to replace my oxygen sensor (ecu was throwing a code 1), replace front-passenger upper control arm (ball joint is busted), and install a new rad that I bought a couple of days ago.

Prior to the installation of these parts, my car ran fine when the motor just starts to get warm (before it overheats). After about 15mins of driving, my check engine light comes on (I assume it is because of the O2 sensor). Once this light turns on, my car seems to "bog" when trying to accelerate (hardly any acceleration when I step on the gas... and first gear is really tough to start without chirpping the tires... I have to start first gear in a high rev in order for the car to not "bog"). When I shut off my engine for a few minutes to go grab something in a convenience store, the check engine light resets... as I start the motor again, this "bog" is gone ("bog" returns as check engine light comes on again).

Now let's get to the point. The rad installation, replacing of O2 sensor, replacing of upper ball joint / control arm, all went well. The motor started up fine, climate control works, everything is good.
Until I hit the highway....... My car starts to "bog" again. I pull over to check my ecu and it is not throwing a single code. I continue on the highway... then my car stalls while going 90km/h. I pull over automatcially thinking that it is the dizzy (this happend to me last year). Car cranks but won't turn over... no spark.
I call my mechanic telling him what just happend. I got my car towed over to his shop again. He says the rotor screw in the dizzy is out (what a surprise). He went to the extent of taking out his OWN EF dizzy from his perfectly tuned track car and installed it on mine (this was because the 3 dizzys he had at the shop didn't turn the motor either). It fired right up.

Now the twist of the whole night:
I barely made it home on the highway because my car "BOGS" AGAIN
It was the EXACT symptoms of when the check engine light came on before any of this was installed.

Now I need all you EF guru's to tell me what you think is wrong! My car is sitting outside, it's friday, and I'm scared to drive my car ever again.
Any ideas?

TIA

 

Okay, since nobody is responding... I will give some more information:
My motor is SOHC ZC w/ DPFI

I searched the archives and found some other people's responses:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicLX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well since it runs in open loop(o2) when its cold and doesnt bog but when its in closed loop and warm it does bog you should try unplugging the o2 sensors or sensor and runnin it like that. if the bog goes away then its your o2 sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just changed my O2 sensor with a brand new one. My code 1 from the ecu is now gone. I changed this sensor not only to hopefully get rid of that check engine light and bog, but also to try and pass the emissions test. Also, how many O2 sensors are there supposed to be on a SOHC ZC? I only have ONE... it is located to the left of the exhaust manifold, almost level with the block-stamp "ZC". There is also a mysterious tapped hole in the center of the exhaust manifold below the dip stick. Is there supposed to be another sensor there? If so, how come I'm not getting anymore code?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also check your cam timing...mine went off by one tooth retarding it so severely that it had no powerband up until 3k, then it pulled like crazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is questionable for me because the bog feels exactly what blah13 explained (no power till about 3K then all of a sudden it pulls). Please give me more insight to this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you floor it suddenly does it bog bad for 1 second? if so you probably got the 2 outer wires on the TPS backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is also one of my symptoms... does a dpfi have tps? if so, where is the 2 outer wires?

I Seriously need help guys...

 

bump 4 me
please help

 

Has anyone experienced a "poof" sound when punching the gas?
(to downshift or just low end flooring)

If the timing belt is off by a tooth, does it affect the distributer to break cap and rotor screw?

man, usually h-t answers my questions almost instantly but where are you guys now?!
PLEASE I NEED HELP

 

nobody?!?
come on there has to be SOMEBODY who has an idea what is wrong??

 

K here is my 2 cents. Since before I grew some ***** and got common sense to ditch the eclipse and buy my EF Civic HB. I to had bogging in both. Common things to check, fuel filter (if this bad boy is old and gunked up ur gas flow is gonna be reduced) also check for some vac. leaks maybe somewhere the a seal is going and it that could be causing when only on highways. Also check ur throttle body and look where the flap opens see if there is build up ur TB could be sticking clean it anyways. if all else fails respond or personal message me. Good Luck I hope I was some help

 

Really sounds like an ignition issue to me since that "poof" sound is a cylinder firing when its not supposed to. Check your distributor wires and make sure they are in order. Check spark plugs. Which dizzy are you using? It is possible that the distributor is 180 degrees the wrong way. Check timing. Check TDC.

Now in few instances, with a bad O2 sensor.. its can cause your car to run too lean and heat up the material in the catalytic converter, clogging exhaust flow.

I also noticed that you mentioned you replaced the radiator... did you remember to bleed the coolant to rid of bubbles?
Just some suggestions.

 

I know exactly what you are describing since my B16 rex does exactly the same thing. I think it is a distributor problem (or at least a spark problem) when it starts to bog, I usually put the clutch in and switch it off for a few seconds. That seems to work. Something like this is difficult to test because it only does it on the highway, after driving for a constant speed for an extended period of time (15 + minutes)

 

I had problems with this as well in my crx... engine would be fine...and now and then would just die and not crank until I whacked the distributor around with a stick...MASSIVELY pissed me off.... I replaced the coil....cap/rotor....and it still did it...I think it was the ignitor...which runs for something like 90 bucks...better to spend 140 on a whole new distributor at autozone and take the lifetime warranty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WindZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K here is my 2 cents. Since before I grew some ***** and got common sense to ditch the eclipse and buy my EF Civic HB. I to had bogging in both. Common things to check, fuel filter (if this bad boy is old and gunked up ur gas flow is gonna be reduced) also check for some vac. leaks maybe somewhere the a seal is going and it that could be causing when only on highways. Also check ur throttle body and look where the flap opens see if there is build up ur TB could be sticking clean it anyways. if all else fails respond or personal message me. Good Luck I hope I was some help </TD></TR></TABLE>

geez i never thought of the fuel filter.. i will get that replaced as soon as i have the $.
TB will also be checked sometime today. thanks for ur reply, i'll pm you once i get this done.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rj-SiHatchy] Really sounds like an ignition issue to me since that "poof" sound is a cylinder firing when its not supposed to. Check your distributor wires and make sure they are in order. Check spark plugs. Which dizzy are you using? It is possible that the distributor is 180 degrees the wrong way. Check timing. Check TDC.

Now in few instances, with a bad O2 sensor.. its can cause your car to run too lean and heat up the material in the catalytic converter, clogging exhaust flow.

I also noticed that you mentioned you replaced the radiator... did you remember to bleed the coolant to rid of bubbles?
Just some suggestions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure my mechanic knows what he is doing since he also has a EF as a track car. I'm not sure what type of dizzy he put in my car, but i'll check timing TDC since he didnt do that. (BTW what dizzy is supposed to be on SOHC ZC? d16a6 dizzy?) I failed my emissions test... maybe my cat is ****? You may be right on that one. The rad was bled through to let all the bubbles out. There is no overheating or weird sounds so i think the rad install went good.
Thanks for your reply

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlastikOwl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had problems with this as well in my crx... engine would be fine...and now and then would just die and not crank until I whacked the distributor around with a stick...MASSIVELY pissed me off.... I replaced the coil....cap/rotor....and it still did it...I think it was the ignitor...which runs for something like 90 bucks...better to spend 140 on a whole new distributor at autozone and take the lifetime warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you seem to have the exact problem. Did you end up replacing it with a new dizzy? Did it solve the problem? Well i did spend $120 for my mechanic's OWN NEW dizzy in his track car (new wires and all) and it STILL does it. Thats why i'm looking for other problems... it seems like something is making the dizzy **** up like this... that is the problem im trying to find.

thanks for all of your replies guys

i will update this forum once everything is checked over.

 

try hollowing out ur catalytic converter or changing ur fuel filter or pcv valve

 

or check ur manifold u said there was tape on it try seeing if theres a crack behind that , that would cause ur o2 sincer to see a lean condition, so ur computer would make ur car run rich

 

UPDATE:

-tried running the car with O2 senor unplugged... still same... plugged it back it in, and it's still the same bogging.

-changed fuel filter today, still same bogging.

-i can't believe my mechanic didnt check the spark plugs (maybe he didnt because he changed them with the plug gaskets last year)..... When i checked the plugs, the 2 outer plugs were DRENCHED in oil... the second from the right also had a bit on the thread. I must have blown piston rings, or the head gasket, or hopefully it is just the 4 plug gaskets again.

This MUST be the problem since the car sounds/feels like it is running on 2 cylinders at low rpm range. It varies when this "bogging" feeling occurs. Sometimes it feels like it is running like a champ... but other times it feels like the car is about to shut down.

Any more insight to this?
Have I found the problem? Oil mixing with gas should cause little/no detonation... therefore "BOGGING" the motor at certain rpms..

Confirm with me please

 

Tomorrow I'm going to the dealership to buy a vavle cover gasket set.
I'm just wondering what gasket set I should ask for my SOHC ZC? Does the D16A6 have the same overall valve cover? Or is the SOHC ZC a 1.5L?

 

same as d16a6

 

what i wanna know is why does your sohc zc have dpfi?

oh, btw. props for being a girl driving a manual EF and knowing some mechanical **** too. that's awesome sauce.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c for sea &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i wanna know is why does your sohc zc have dpfi?

oh, btw. props for being a girl driving a manual EF and knowing some mechanical **** too. that's awesome sauce. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just so you know c for sea, this was taken from "her" biography --

User Biography

mods to come in the near future:
-PAINT!!@
-b16
I'm a 2nd year mechanical engineering student in Humber College.
**FOR THE RECORD, THE AVATAR IS NOT ME**
SEX: MALE


just to let you know

 

LOL
thanks origin for clearing that up


ok thanks guys, im off to honda to buy the gaskets

i'll be back with an update

 

UPDATE:

-replaced spark plug gaskets (o-rings)
-ran the car for 15 mins (hopefully to burn off the left over oil in chamber)
-car still bogs...

-found a pretty new cap for dizzy in my basement, installed the new cap/rotor
-car still bogs

-the car sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders (sounds like a lawn mower)
-i'm not going to drive my car til i get this fixed
-hopefully it's not a huge mechanical problem like piston rings... hopefully it's an easy electrical problem

I AM OFFICIALLY TOTALLY STUMPED
BOG OWNZ ME

 

i've decided to save about $2000 for a B16A1

i seriously cant drive it.

plus as i think about it, the car needs a new clutch as well....
so if any of you want to buy a fucked up sohc zc, give me a shout.

i am more depressed about this car than anything else now.

i dont understand.... i treat this car better than anything.... but my car hates me

 

Dont give up.. have you changed the spark plugs?
Have you checked the plug wires, look for cracking? Are you positive the wires are in the right order?
Did you reset the ECU after installing the new O2 sensor?
I still dont understand why you are running DPFI on a SOHC ZC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rj-SiHatchy]Dont give up.. have you changed the spark plugs?
Have you checked the plug wires, look for cracking? Are you positive the wires are in the right order?
Did you reset the ECU after installing the new O2 sensor?
I still dont understand why you are running DPFI on a SOHC ZC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-spark plugs changed 10 months ago

-new plugs / wires (7mm)

-wires are in order (ex. let cylinders = ABCD from left to right) on the distributer it would look:
BA
DC

-ecu reset

-the car was bought like this with sohc zc and dpfi

 

do a compression test and/or a leakdown test to see whats going on with your piston rings..

If it is....drop the pan...pull the pistons and replace them with a replacement kit from autozone or something...it's not as hard as you might think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PlastikOwl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a compression test and/or a leakdown test to see whats going on with your piston rings..

If it is....drop the pan...pull the pistons and replace them with a replacement kit from autozone or something...it's not as hard as you might think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is my last glimpse of hope for my little motor.
i'll be doing the compression test today.
i already found a first gen B16A for $900 without ecu, so if it turns out to be the pistons/rings/head gasket... im just going to go on with the swap.

thanks for the support guys.