I put on all new rotors, kept my stock ITR pads which were still good, flushed the brake system and bleed in the proper order as indicated by the Helms.

So after the brakes were mushy so I bled again. Then they firmed up a little. So I did a rotor break-in procedure (found on H-T). Then after leaving the car overnight they firmed up more. Within two days they felt back normal and it was great.

Now the car has been in a body shop for almost two weeks, I get it back and the brakes feel mushy again!

What is going on? Can someone explain why this might be happening? Also, is there a bleeding procedure to avoid this? Thanks!

 

What did the body shop work on? Did they have to remove a caliper or something? That would be the easiest explanation to your problem... getting air in the system. Unless your M/C is shot and the pedal drops to the floor at a stop.

Bleed it one more time and see how it performs under your supervision. I think you bleed it right the 1st & 2nd time.

 

I have a question for you auto-xers....I havent changed my brake fluid for probaly more than 30k....and I get on it...and brake a lot...do you think pedel feel woudl benefit? I have noticed that its getting pretty solid when braking hard. Also my pads still look like there is a lot left should I also resurface the rotors? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by That Dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I havent changed my brake fluid for probaly more than 30k....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then change it NOW. Even a street-only car (even one driven by my grandmother) needs to have the brake fluid changed every 30K miles or 2 years, whichever comes first. More often for a car that is tracked, autocrossed, and/or driven hard.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by That Dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you think pedel feel woudl benefit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what? From changing the fluid? The effectiveness sure would.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by That Dood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also my pads still look like there is a lot left should I also resurface the rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? Nothing you have stated indicates any reason why you would need to resurface the rotors.

 

OK...Ill change my fluid....**** I just replaced my cap/rotor and plugs (some of those NGK Iridiums VX) and that mad ea HUGE difference...I hope replacing the fluid has that kind of effect....also would I benefit by using an ITR BB and MC? I have a EK hatch with a 4-wheel 00 Civic Si disc conversion with the proportion valve and MC right now...

Thanks guys...I dont really know nothing about this whole braking thing...

Also If you wanted to replace any of the bushing in the arms and such...what would you replace and why?

Also anyone running Zeal B2's? My **** is sometimes rough (like in dry weather)...like you get annoyed and really pissed off (our streets here are pretty shitty..like potholes sit 1-2 inches below street pavement). Any springs that I could get for the streets...like another brand for cheaper?

I want to run some rear race track renting racing this summer (my buddy just picked up a STi) and want to get some fun going at our local race track (i think it cart racing...not sure...track looks like what they use for the F-1 races).

Sorry to blabber.

 

If you bleed the brakes by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor you can damage the master cylinder. I used to bleed brakes like this all the time...master cylinder became damaged. Now with a new master cylinder and new brake bleeding procedure (pushing the pedal only 3/4 of the way down), my brakes have remained firm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Now with a new master cylinder and new brake bleeding procedure (pushing the pedal only 3/4 of the way down), my brakes have remained firm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or, just put a wooden block under the brake pedal. This way your travel is limited to 1/2 -&gt; 3/4 travel and you never risk pushing it all the way down. Learned it from Pyromaster, the track n*zi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you bleed the brakes by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor you can damage the master cylinder. I used to bleed brakes like this all the time...master cylinder became damaged. Now with a new master cylinder and new brake bleeding procedure (pushing the pedal only 3/4 of the way down), my brakes have remained firm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And with this in mind and as long as your MC is still good.


REBLEED the system till it's hard as a rock.

Trust at least Me Dave and Ken here. Been there did that.

Sounds like air in the line and or a bad bleed.

 

Well I just re-bled and seemed there was some air; and they are more firm now, but still not all the way there. I am going to leave it over night and see if it firms up. I bet money it does.