? re: valve adjustment: crow's foot and torque
i have question re: valve adjustments.
i plan to use a flat head screwdriver and a crow's foot wrench (it looks like it can fit in there) instead of a specific valve adjustment tool. my questions:
1- anyone else done this? there is enough room, right?
2- Helm's manual says 14 ft.lbs. for locknut torque. if i were to actually use a torque wrench, what is the torque actually applied to the lock-nut? i assume it will be different because the nut is now no longer on the axis of the torque wrench. any physics people know any formulas?
3- last question: if you have cam gears and adjusted the timing, i would think that as long as they are within a few degrees you wouldn't have to "TDC" the intake and then the exhaust cam separately (as to compensate for any +/- a few degrees). at TDC, the valves are closed, and thus should be at the lowest point of the cam for at least some arc of the circle, so it wouldn't matter if they were off by just one or two degrees.
thanks in advance...
i plan to use a flat head screwdriver and a crow's foot wrench (it looks like it can fit in there) instead of a specific valve adjustment tool. my questions:
1- anyone else done this? there is enough room, right?
2- Helm's manual says 14 ft.lbs. for locknut torque. if i were to actually use a torque wrench, what is the torque actually applied to the lock-nut? i assume it will be different because the nut is now no longer on the axis of the torque wrench. any physics people know any formulas?
3- last question: if you have cam gears and adjusted the timing, i would think that as long as they are within a few degrees you wouldn't have to "TDC" the intake and then the exhaust cam separately (as to compensate for any +/- a few degrees). at TDC, the valves are closed, and thus should be at the lowest point of the cam for at least some arc of the circle, so it wouldn't matter if they were off by just one or two degrees.
thanks in advance...
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