Can anyone help me out here, I am starting to put together my CRX and am gonna go turbo. I will be using a Dart block as the foundation of this beast and a B16 head, using obd1. Dart has 4 different blocks to choose from. I want to run around 10 to 15 psi. Anyone have any ideas of what to put in this engine as far as crank, rods, pistons, rings etc. etc. I am limited on money so the turbo might be next year but I am building the long block now. Holla with your suggestions and input. I am looking at a budget of around $7000. I have the head already.

 

what are your goals. If this is a streetcar i doubt u will want to have that much power. crx's have such a small wheelbase it would be wise to keep it realistic.

 

It will be street and strip and some SCCA racing also, as well as a show or 2. All around fun.

 

i would ask about this in the forced induction forum, since your question pertains mainly with engine theory and whatnot. HTH

 

If you dont know the block, then you dont know enough about your turbo set up to run any SCCA road races/schools... keep it autox only. i would also keep the boost down... 10 is a good (on the very high end) streetable level.... you could always boost it up for the strip... and turn it way down for road courses.

http://www.nasaracing.net ~ we're at summit point almost all year long!

 

Dart/Payn Block B18 Block with 84.5mm bore
Wiseco Pistons (9.0:1 CR)
Total seal gapless top piston Rings
Oliver Rods
Bearings/thrust washers
Hondata heat shield gasket
Cometic head gasket
ARP studs
Set of 16 SS valves; + 1mm intake, stock size exhaust Quaife differential
Walbro fuel pump
Bearings for Quaife Magnecor wires Clutchmaster’s Stage 3 Clutch package
I have a good idea so far. ENOUGH SAID!!!!

 

I'm not say'n you didnt have a good idea. I'm just saying, as a tech inspector for NASA, there hasnt been a single turbo honda with a swap that has made it the entire weekend of schooling. that turbo is going to generate a TON of heat, and without major upgrades to your cooling system (which i've also seen done and fail) you dont stand a chance of staying on track.... unless you are talking about being involved in Feb. and Nov Dec.

There was a hatch with an LS/vtec and turbo at Lowes international speedway when we ran half the speedway and the infield. He had two electric fans, upgraded thermo, heat sheild, fluidyne full radiator... and he still couldnt stay out on track on a 90 degree day. Placement of the turbo is key, but never the less its always going to be a "hot spot" in the engine bay when you road race. Good luck and remember the turbo placement. No amount of engine prep is going to help out a turbo track car without upgraded cooling.

PS~ i've been throwing around the thought of running a B20 vtec turbo on track... once the swap is done we'll have to trade info on how to keep it cool... cause D.C. traffic is going to give me killer heat, let alone track time.

 

Its all good. I am wanting to build a Turbo set up realy bad, and you are right, it would have a heating problem. Most likely it will be a street and strip deal and thats about it. Got a newborn son to raise and that costs some loot. Oh by the way, I currently live in Germany but was born and raised in Leesburg Va. Holla!

 

hey man, i know it's not DART, but it's at least as good of quality...I have an AEBS sleeved LS block for sale that'd work really well for your setup. I also have 9.4:1 CR pistons that'll be great for racing b/c it still has a decent CR for low end power. Here's a link to my for sale post:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=742943

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_4_LIFE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dart/Payn Block B18 Block with 84.5mm bore
Wiseco Pistons (9.0:1 CR)
Total seal gapless top piston Rings
Oliver Rods
Bearings/thrust washers
Hondata heat shield gasket
Cometic head gasket
ARP studs
Set of 16 SS valves; + 1mm intake, stock size exhaust Quaife differential
Walbro fuel pump
Bearings for Quaife Magnecor wires Clutchmaster’s Stage 3 Clutch package
I have a good idea so far. ENOUGH SAID!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might want to rethink that setup. For the head I'd go .5 oversized valves on the intake and 1+ on the exhaust.

I'll be doing a dart block for my crx.
Dart talldeck 81mm (bored to 84)
CP pistons (swain ceramic coated)
Pauter rods
eagle 92mm crank (1.599 R/S still)
ACL bearings