i jus got my jdm h22a put in my 94 accord and its fast but im running into a lot of serious problems such as :

when my car is idle, the rpms are dangerously too low and the car eventually "stalls" out, my check engine light gets on and off occasionally and ppl have been saying its the egr valve ...

my heater doesnt work

the jdm h22a redline is about 78 - 8200 but sometimes in 1st and 2nd my rev limiter kicks in before hand why is that?

please help

thanks

 

for your idle did you mess with the TPS at all when you put the motor in there...if so..then adjust your TPS if not then adjust your idle screw...

when the check engine light comes on...jump the connecter and pull the code....

jdm h22a redline is at 7400 and cut off at 7800...type s cut off at 8200...when your rev limiter kicks in early that means you have an error...

 

my cut is lower than 7800. more like 7500-7600.
sounds like some stuff was not doneright in the swap to me.

 

adjust your throttle cable tension so it is tight, but not idleing high. hondas idle high when they are cold, and the idle slowly adjusts itself as the iab (i think) valve closes and stops letting hot coolant through the intake manifold. if your idle is adjusted too low, then it will idle fine, then stall out when the engine reaches operating temp. try letting the car warm up, then adjusting the idle. get it roughly where you want it by adjusting the cable (+/- 250 rpm), then fine tune it with the idle adjusting screw. i think the h22 should be around 750. and for your heater... what is broken?? it not very uncommon for the cable to become kinked or damaged on the install. check on your firewall, there is an inlet and outlet water hose for your heater core. check the inlet hose, there is a valve that lets hot water in when you turn your heater **** to hot. if the cable came off or is kinked anywhere along its way to your climate controls, it will not open and close properly. try manually opening the valve, see if you get heat, and if you do, then fix the problem in the cable. hope this helps.

 

well i work at honda, and one of my good friend mechanics looked at it...and he disconnected the egr vacuum hose and it ran normal, but when he put it back on, it stalled out, so im guessing its clogged =\ but im running w/ out the egr basically...any problems i might encounter with the vacuum hose not connected? and the rpm needle is "hopping" from 1500 to around 800

 

EGR is not that hard to clean...open it and clean it...EGR is there for emmission reason...you can run without it...but you will get a check engine light...what people do is they cap off the EGR by putting a plate in between the egr and the manifold....

I think you hook up your vacuum wrong...cuz there shouldn't be any vacuum going into the EGR...even though there's a vacuum line...that vacuum line run towards something on the right fender if you're facing the front of the car...egr vacuum line doesn't go right to the intake manifold...it goes to something else right in front left fender...and then to the EGR

 

did you switch the heated o2 sensor and egr pins on teh ecu like you have to on a 5th gen accord? that seems to be the problem fromn waht you are sasying.

 

i had the same problems with my swap. mine happened to be a combination of all of things. First, the o2 heater pin and egr pins werent swapped, after that the car ran alright as long as it was warm outside. Secondly, my heat didnt work because one of my heater core tubes got bent when we pulled the engine out, so i had to replace the heater core, big *** bummer. Thirdly, I had an issue with all of the jdm p13 ecu's I tried. All of them produced a bad idle, i ended up using a p72 and all the problems went away. I also tried a USDM prelude ECU and it worked fine as well. I have heard with the USDM ecu you lose 5 horsepower, but my car ran so much better with it. Just my $.02