Something I thought up to combat the cold weather start.
Ok this all started when I noticed a veteran CRX drag racer in our shop who is a technician. (He is so cool he still has a new Mugen flywheel for a D15 in his tool box.) He was replacing an older Accord engine for a client that didn't like to change his oil that often...After we received the used engine we relpace all the regular stuff. Like water pump, timing belt, thermostat, engine oil, and filter+++...You know the regular stuff. then when he has it in and lord knowing how long the engine sat before we got it. (All of our engines come from Import Auto Salvage)
He unplugs the distributor power plug (blue and black) so the engine can not fire up. He then cranks it over for @20-30 seconds for the engine oil light to go out...Then plugs in the distributor and fires it up...I ask why. he responds just a little safety measure to get oil everywhere before the engine fires up...
Now my part in all this. I have a 2003 RSX-S with of course an Immobilizer key...I have always had an extra regular (non immobilizer) key blank...The 4.00 kind as to lock the vehicle running in my driveway and leave it running( not often though)...Well it now serves two purposes. This morning when it was like 4 degrees outside with the wind chill. I sat down in the cold *** leather drivers seat and used my regular key blank, turned the ignition on and watched the green immobilizer light flash as I turned the ignition switch over. the engine turned slowly over for @25 seconds. remember it was very cold and I also use Mobil-1 full synthetic...After the oil light went out I used my regular program key and the engine fired right up...
I hope I didn't waste any of your time to read all this. I am **** when it comes to anything that can help my engine. I figured maybe some of you guys who have really cold conditions for months at a time could save your engine from a little extra wear and tear by doing this. Total cost @4.00 and maybe 30 extra seconds...
Take it or leave it
BTW his flywheel is new and from when you could buy Mugen at a reasonable price from any Honda dealer.
Modified by GreenBean at 8:57 AM 1/21/2004
He unplugs the distributor power plug (blue and black) so the engine can not fire up. He then cranks it over for @20-30 seconds for the engine oil light to go out...Then plugs in the distributor and fires it up...I ask why. he responds just a little safety measure to get oil everywhere before the engine fires up...
Now my part in all this. I have a 2003 RSX-S with of course an Immobilizer key...I have always had an extra regular (non immobilizer) key blank...The 4.00 kind as to lock the vehicle running in my driveway and leave it running( not often though)...Well it now serves two purposes. This morning when it was like 4 degrees outside with the wind chill. I sat down in the cold *** leather drivers seat and used my regular key blank, turned the ignition on and watched the green immobilizer light flash as I turned the ignition switch over. the engine turned slowly over for @25 seconds. remember it was very cold and I also use Mobil-1 full synthetic...After the oil light went out I used my regular program key and the engine fired right up...
I hope I didn't waste any of your time to read all this. I am **** when it comes to anything that can help my engine. I figured maybe some of you guys who have really cold conditions for months at a time could save your engine from a little extra wear and tear by doing this. Total cost @4.00 and maybe 30 extra seconds...
Take it or leave it
BTW his flywheel is new and from when you could buy Mugen at a reasonable price from any Honda dealer.
Modified by GreenBean at 8:57 AM 1/21/2004
Not really, I mean use a non immobilizer key to turn the engine over until the oil light oes out. Then start the engine with your regular immobilizer key.
Its all about lubrication
Modified by GreenBean at 8:36 AM 1/21/2004
Its all about lubrication
Modified by GreenBean at 8:36 AM 1/21/2004
Heh, what he is saying is if you get a copy of your key made somewhere, without the immobilizer chip in it (like a hardware store or something) you can use that key to turn the engine over without starting up. This will lube the engine on a cold day without firing in the cylinders.
Then you can use your normal key (with the chip in it) to actually start the engine.
Then you can use your normal key (with the chip in it) to actually start the engine.
Trending Topics
There is a big difference in turning it over at @500 rpms or so and just having the engine start up and run at 1500-200o rpms cold...
Have you ever talked with a race engine builder....They can't stand cold starts...
Besides, like I said...the only cost is 4.00 and @30 seconds...But it could help the engine.
Have you ever talked with a race engine builder....They can't stand cold starts...
Besides, like I said...the only cost is 4.00 and @30 seconds...But it could help the engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My question is:
Does this turn the oil pump on? or is the oil pump run by the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The oil pump is run with the crank...It will take @15-20 seconds and the oil light will go out...
Does this turn the oil pump on? or is the oil pump run by the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The oil pump is run with the crank...It will take @15-20 seconds and the oil light will go out...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darryl Musashi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In contrast then, its like cranking your engine and having fuel pump disabled?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly,
Exactly,
But will the "pre" cranking for > 10 secs do any harm to the starter motor?
cause I believe it may overheat due to the fact that it's running on alot of current to crank the motor over for start ups, correct me if Im wrong
cause I believe it may overheat due to the fact that it's running on alot of current to crank the motor over for start ups, correct me if Im wrong
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">immobilizer key vs non-immobilizer key? does Acura give you a non-immobilizer key?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, but the pattern of the metal portion of the key is the same as a lot of other cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically since the rsx has an immobilizer system, w/o the immobilizer key, you can turn it to III (as if you are starting the car) and it doesn't really start up...and hold it for 25 seconds? is that what you're talking about?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, its like pre-oiling the engine.
No, but the pattern of the metal portion of the key is the same as a lot of other cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically since the rsx has an immobilizer system, w/o the immobilizer key, you can turn it to III (as if you are starting the car) and it doesn't really start up...and hold it for 25 seconds? is that what you're talking about?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, its like pre-oiling the engine.
Not necessary in my opinion. If it's that damn cold out, chances are you only have so long to get the engine to fire. After that, you're stuck. The slight benefit of 'pre-oiling' is offset by the additional wear and tear on the starter and battery. I've never had any engine related issues due to cold weather starts and oil.
Ah The beauty of the 4yr/50,000 factory warranty...
Trust me the starter may only be turning for 15-20 seconds max....
Trust me the starter may only be turning for 15-20 seconds max....
If you drive your car everyday, then I don't see any benefit to cranking the motor for 30 seconds before actually starting it. Maybe if it has been in storage, but then you just pour oil down the sparkplug holes (with plugs removed) and the point is moot.
There is still oil in all of the places that there needs to be, and when was the last time you saw a 100K mile Honda motor put down inferior HP numbers or smoking like a freight train when it has been maintained properly?
The most important thing to do is to not rev the **** out of a cold motor and run a good thin oil in the winter. Normal idling will be ok. Or, just invest in a engine block heater. Honda sells them for cold climates.
Junkyard motors are a different story. You never know what kinda crap is in there.
There is still oil in all of the places that there needs to be, and when was the last time you saw a 100K mile Honda motor put down inferior HP numbers or smoking like a freight train when it has been maintained properly?
The most important thing to do is to not rev the **** out of a cold motor and run a good thin oil in the winter. Normal idling will be ok. Or, just invest in a engine block heater. Honda sells them for cold climates.
Junkyard motors are a different story. You never know what kinda crap is in there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
devin0606
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
3
Mar 21, 2017 12:45 PM
ferio252
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
6
Dec 15, 2010 12:29 PM
streetracerof06
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
3
May 8, 2006 06:09 AM



