Plug Wires, I have magnicores heard they were shit and i fail'd smog when i should have pass'd
The topic basically explains it all. What plug wires do most of you guys run?
For the mods you have listed i would think stock would be fine.
Maybe i'm reading it wrong but are you saying you failed because of the plug wires? More likely the v-afc.
Doubt it. What part did you fail on? If you posts you smog readings i'll give it my best shot at diagnosis.
Maybe i'm reading it wrong but are you saying you failed because of the plug wires? More likely the v-afc.
Doubt it. What part did you fail on? If you posts you smog readings i'll give it my best shot at diagnosis.
I've heard alot of bad things about the magnicores. here's my post in the integra forum.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&i...&postid=573490
that will show you my results.
Also vafc is set at 0% cor
BoostinDC2.... Jerry?
[Modified by SystemGSR, 12:20 AM 10/2/2001]
[Modified by SystemGSR, 1:23 AM 10/2/2001]
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&i...&postid=573490
that will show you my results.
Also vafc is set at 0% cor
BoostinDC2.... Jerry?
[Modified by SystemGSR, 12:20 AM 10/2/2001]
[Modified by SystemGSR, 1:23 AM 10/2/2001]
Are magnecores really that bad...? I was about to buy a set but would I be better off going with a set of MSD wires instead...?
Trending Topics
this is shaun... the guy you never talk to anymore.
as for getting the MSD Magnicores well run a search on magnicore and see what you come up with. I've sean alot of bad **** about them.
My dad has run them on our boat for years and he says that when he buys then he has to bring a ohms meter with him to test every wire on the spot so he can swap out bad wires with good ones from another box. This is shitty.
Also after buying my first set i had 2 bad wires. Can you beleive that ****. I also had alittle problem with them staying seated all the way in at first. Now they stay in but i'm not sure if i trust them anymore. Quality it seams has gone down.
as for getting the MSD Magnicores well run a search on magnicore and see what you come up with. I've sean alot of bad **** about them.
My dad has run them on our boat for years and he says that when he buys then he has to bring a ohms meter with him to test every wire on the spot so he can swap out bad wires with good ones from another box. This is shitty.
Also after buying my first set i had 2 bad wires. Can you beleive that ****. I also had alittle problem with them staying seated all the way in at first. Now they stay in but i'm not sure if i trust them anymore. Quality it seams has gone down.
hmm...lets see.
well in the other thread you said it was hot but leaving it idling doesn't count. better would be racing the engine at 2500 rpm while the tech inputs the info into the machine. if he's cool he'll let you. keep your fingers crossed. i say this because your running pretty clean on the second step.
another reason could be a lazy o2 sensor. if it slow to react it will not pulse rich/ lean fast enough and will give you similar readings.
lastly cat. conv. but i doubt it. either way there are several ways to check both.
Simplest ones i know: Check o2 with a fast enough digital multimeter. An oscillascope or graphing multimeter would be bettter but not to many peeps have one. You want to see a min. of 8 cross counts in tens sec. for a healthly O2. The voltage should go up to about .875 mv(millivolts) and a low of .175mv. A cross count is basically a switch from rich to lean or vice versa.
As far as the cat goes, you'll need access to an infrared temp sensor. Bring vehicle to normal operating temp. Raise idle to about 2500 rpm and ground one plug wire.
Now measure the exhaust temp before the cat and after. For get the exact percentage of temp increase but it should be noticeably higher. Excess fuel continuing to be burnt will create heat thus the higher exh. temp.
I would start will the basics first...plug wires back to stock and a good tune up. (cheaper). Using a small hose connected to manifold vacuum you can SLOWLY introduce water into the combustion chamber. This does a good job of cleaning it as well as the cat conv. Gets it nice and hot. You should do this at 2500 rpm also.
Follow it up with a couple of full throttle runs. (Freeway on ramps)
Good luck. Hope this helps.
well in the other thread you said it was hot but leaving it idling doesn't count. better would be racing the engine at 2500 rpm while the tech inputs the info into the machine. if he's cool he'll let you. keep your fingers crossed. i say this because your running pretty clean on the second step.
another reason could be a lazy o2 sensor. if it slow to react it will not pulse rich/ lean fast enough and will give you similar readings.
lastly cat. conv. but i doubt it. either way there are several ways to check both.
Simplest ones i know: Check o2 with a fast enough digital multimeter. An oscillascope or graphing multimeter would be bettter but not to many peeps have one. You want to see a min. of 8 cross counts in tens sec. for a healthly O2. The voltage should go up to about .875 mv(millivolts) and a low of .175mv. A cross count is basically a switch from rich to lean or vice versa.
As far as the cat goes, you'll need access to an infrared temp sensor. Bring vehicle to normal operating temp. Raise idle to about 2500 rpm and ground one plug wire.
Now measure the exhaust temp before the cat and after. For get the exact percentage of temp increase but it should be noticeably higher. Excess fuel continuing to be burnt will create heat thus the higher exh. temp.
I would start will the basics first...plug wires back to stock and a good tune up. (cheaper). Using a small hose connected to manifold vacuum you can SLOWLY introduce water into the combustion chamber. This does a good job of cleaning it as well as the cat conv. Gets it nice and hot. You should do this at 2500 rpm also.
Follow it up with a couple of full throttle runs. (Freeway on ramps)
Good luck. Hope this helps.
can you give me some more info about testing o2 sensor. I have a digital multimeter but i dont know if it will refresh fast enough to see changes. maybe....
can you give me some more info about testing o2 sensor. I have a digital multimeter but i dont know if it will refresh fast enough to see changes. maybe....
can you give me some more info about testing o2 sensor. I have a digital multimeter but i dont know if it will refresh fast enough to see changes. maybe....
the spoon ones 
I have msd's. I used to have magnecores and they didnt' seal properly. I have also had ngk's and they were great, just blue.

I have msd's. I used to have magnecores and they didnt' seal properly. I have also had ngk's and they were great, just blue.
I had Magnacore's and went back to stock. They dont' seat properly on the spark plug and were arching in my case. I even had the dealer look at them and they couldn't get them to fit correctly either. Kevin McCormick informed me that his pop off the distributor too. Guy Gladden of the TypeR list on Yahoo groups has also posted similar comments. In fact, I don't believe I've heard anyone say they fit well or worked as intended. So buyer beware if you choose to get the Magnacore. They s*ck IMO.
On a side note, I just ordered a new cap, rotor, and plug wires all for $51 from Naples Acura. Helluva deal, especially since the OEM wires work and fit so well.
On a side note, I just ordered a new cap, rotor, and plug wires all for $51 from Naples Acura. Helluva deal, especially since the OEM wires work and fit so well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




