Hi all, NOOBLAR here... first thread :D

I have had this thought in mind, regarding building a new engine by purchasing parts slowly.

My idea is to make a 1.8 to 2.0 liter engine using the B series parts. I have thought about swap before, but I figure (and this goes for JDM motors especially) that motors from Japan with "low" mileage might need overhaul because Japan, being a small country with less chance of highway travel, the motors are either all city driving or used for competition. My thinking could be very well wrongful.

I copied this line quoted from B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All the B16B is is a destroked Integra Type R engine with higher CR pistons and a better intake camshaft.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is what I think:

B series bottom end from Honda
B16A Head from Honda
Jun Cam
B16B pistons and crank shaft fron Honda
Increase to 2.0 liter
Port & Polish
Spoon valves and valve springs
Spoon head gasket
Spoon oil pan

I am sure I have missed a lot of parts. But how smart is this route compare to buy an used engine and just plug and play? This way, I can start purchasing the parts slowly and put it together myself or have the parts ready and assembled professionally.

This site is flooded with Honda experts. I am willing to get educated and corrected.

Thanks

 

just get a B20 block and a b18 head...same sort of thing you are trying to do except you'll have a honda motor- much more reliable than a Nova_Dust B16

 

Oh I see what you mean. Save the money on increase the displacement and just get B20 to begin with. And I suppose all B18 heads are the same?

How about my other suggested parts? Any comments on those?

Thanks

 

B18a/b= non vtec head
B18c/c1= Vtec head and intake mani has butterflies.
B18c5/r= Pretty agressive head
B16a= vtec head

Theres more you could get into such as lift/duration of cams and the bolt pattern on the intake side.

 

See thread above and below ...

 

Damn, beat me to it. I hate being at work and trying to help someone out on H-T, then a customer comes in and distracts me.

 

I hear the B20/vtec is not the most reliable. I have not heard any real info on this besides converting to vtec being a problem (oiling). I could be wrong though.

How much power do you want? Then we can suggest some combos.

 

I thought I knew B18 have different heads, not sure what made me say that they are all the same... LOL Just like Y7 and Y8 and such such...

My idea goal is to reach power:weight ratio of 0.09 to 0.10

The lighter my car, the less power I need. If I can get my car down to 2000 lb with myself in it, (that's 1850lbs, hard to achieve for a regular 6th gen hatch chassis...) I would only need 180WHP to 200WHP. So money is not just spent on motor but also CF products and lighter rims (will will be my next project).

I will be more than happy to start with 160WHP and work my way up.

Another thing, B18 bore to 2.0 liter is different from a factory B20 bottom end?

 

I have ran LS-Vtec for a while

 

yes there are big differnces between the b18 and the b20 bottom end!

 

so between the b18 and b20 bottem end which would put out more but stay reliable?

 

supposedly the B20 has weaker sleaves than the B18!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">supposedly the B20 has weaker sleaves than the B18!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats true but if your want serious power it would be better to resleeve

 

Sleeve is to add a metal tubing inside the wall right?

 

The "problem" with a non-modified B20 block is there are no oil jets inside it to coat the crankshaft and it's respective bearings with the necessary oil under high RPM and engine loads.

The block can be modified to accomidate such jets, but it would be much easier to use the B16B or B18C5 block that already includes these passages and simply requires some finessing of the cylinders to handle larger pistons to increase displacement.

You are moving in the right direction Nova, but you still need to keep moving.

Spoon parts are nothing more that polished and slightly balanced OEM Honda parts, that cost more than they are worth. It's hard to beat OEM quality, but for the price, you can far surpass that quality part for part, dollar for dollar.

All blocks have sleeves. They are the walls that the pistons move up and down in, that stiffen and strengthen the block, and limit down to almost null the amount of movement or interference between each cylinder.

There are different types and qualities of sleeves, built for each different purpose. Typically increasing piston bore size requires new or machined sleeves.

 

Thanks Hater

I read some more stuff and at this point, I am leaning towards buying parts and pick out new parts for the future engine. I figure let the D block run another 100K and at that point, if I still have my car, I will start my engine project. which should be.... after another 3 or 4 years. By then, my car should be all done with suspension work, light rims and weight reduced and upgraded handling so the car can handle more horsepower.

I mean, buying an used engine which some of the parts will be replaced at the end to me, is like a waste of money. For instance, replace the cams, pistons and whatnot. That's why I wanted to get the new parts initially. A B18 block should be my starting point.

Thanks for the helps again guys. Appreciated.

 

ahhh save urself the trouble. all ya need is sohc turbo!

 

I did thought about Turbo D16 for a sec before, I guess for a little horse power increase, it might seem a faster route. Then I thought about going all motor again instead of turbo. I suppose a all motor D16 will be viable but the parts seem to be limited for such engine.

I could be wrong.

 

oil sqiutters are to cool the pistons while running up and down the cylinders not for cooling the crank