i just did a swap for a friend and the car was running fine until he picked it up it was like 20 degrees outside and he drives maybe a minute without warming it up and gets on it. he told me the car quickly started losing power and then completly cut off.
im not sure if its his headgasket the car wont even start anymore when you try to start the motor just spins smoothly like its building no compression at all. theres oil around the head and the oil cap has a milky residue.
i didnt see any trace of oil in the radiator but i dont even think the thermostat got to open would that prevent oil from entering the radiator?
Hope someone can help im clueless of what it could be.
tia.

 

Where did you get the motor?

 

why the hell would he get on it right after a swap, i'm assuming new gaskets and seals? also, he didn't even give it enough time to build up the right oil pressure (assuming it's vtec). usually milky white means coolant, but if you completely rebuilt the motor, new bearings, etc, then the discoloration can be from the engine lube.

 

Milky white oil is a sign of a head gasket, might as well pull the head off and check things out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why the hell would he get on it right after a swap, i'm assuming new gaskets and seals? also, he didn't even give it enough time to build up the right oil pressure (assuming it's vtec). usually milky white means coolant, but if you completely rebuilt the motor, new bearings, etc, then the discoloration can be from the engine lube. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i asked him the same thing?? but the motor already had a thicker headgasket and everything is else is still stock never been rebuilt. it was turboed before he bought it
he bought the motor from someone at nu image in va.
i still cant figure out why when i crank the motor why it spins so freely when i try to start it. it doesnt do the normal stop & go kind of cranking???

 

You don't even need to see the motor to know that the headgasket is blow..... Milky oil is water in the oil
easy crank, because no compression

blow motor because of possibly a blow motor to begin with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't even need to see the motor to know that the headgasket is blow..... Milky oil is water in the oil
easy crank, because no compression

blow motor because of possibly a blow motor to begin with? </TD></TR></TABLE>

but if the headgasket was blown wouldnt only 1 or 2 cylinder be losing compression and not all of them? if it was building some compression i would think the starter would have some resistance.
the motor was running fine at first when I took it for a test drive. so i know it wasnt blown from the get go.

 

im sure being hard on it right after a swap couldn't help much on the engine life

 

Did you check the timing? Re-check. Do a compresson test as well. Good Luck!

 

i just did a compression test and got
#1 - 25psi
#2 - 25
#3 - 75
#4 - 125
probably the headgasket right?

 

Was it a new headgasket / Used?

It could also be the Rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by velocitytrends &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was it a new headgasket / Used?

It could also be the Rings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It was supposedly a new gasket when it was put on but the car was turboed before he got it. The rings I think are fine b/c I put oil in the cylinders and the readings didnt change.

 

check your timing belt to make sure belt didn;t slip ... if camgears are not aligned anymore you'll get no compression and motor will spin freely.

greg

 

check cam timing and change that head gasket ..make sure it is torqued down correctly and do a leak down...since the motor was boosted and assuming it is stock u could also be losing compression through burnt rings or just cracked ringlands..