For those of you guys running w/ Skunk2 Stage II Camshafts and got it turned, what settings are you making the most power?

Mine Right Now is
Intake Side +2 Degrees
Exhaust Side 0 Degrees

 

bump i would also like to know

 

so how much power are you making?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daboi630 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how much power are you making? </TD></TR></TABLE>

No idea yet. I haven't tuned my car. Right now I just been playing w/ cam gear settings and my FPR. So far, I haven't been happy with the power of the Skunk2 Stage II. The power feels like it comes on too late. But once I have enough money to purchase a Hondata unit + Tuning, I'll keep you guys updated.

 

i have been told the type-s cams give just as much power as the Skunk cams do. anyone heard this as well. i havent seen dyno comparison sheets or anything, just heard this from a couple of ppl.

 

That might be possible on a stock block, but I'm sure with a bump in compression w/ a built block such as 11.5:1 Compression maybe even higher, the Skunk2 Stage II will show more gains.

 

Try retarding the exhaust. That helped out a lot with my Crower Stage 2's. -3 for me.

 

Type S cams make no where near the power of any stage 2 cams. Type S will make about 5 hp. They dont have enough duration to make much power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try retarding the exhaust. That helped out a lot with my Crower Stage 2's. -3 for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You also have the intake side on +1 right?

Isn't that a lot of overlap? No problems w/ the valves hitting each other?

 

skunk 2 stage 2 are a lot better...you dont get that much out of type s...dont mean to hijack your thread but does anyone have jun stage 3 cams? i want to know how those are. sorry for the hijack

 

My setup was Type-S pistons and a 0.020 milled head. Thats 11.6:1 compression. I actually had the cam gears at -5 and -1, to give about -3 exhaust and + 1 intake when taking the milled head into account (0.012=1deg+). When I first put the motor back together I accidentally had both cam gears retarded a tooth and there were no pistons hitting valves. Goes to show how much you can move them. The intake is iffy. I messed around with it and didn't seem to gain any power by adding or subracting anymore. It might make more power when advancing it, but thats because it leans it out more, when you have to adjust the fuel it doesn't increase it overall. The engine made 8 whp alone when I retarded the exhaust to -3.

 

Thanks for the input Ranta, but the cam profiles are different between the two cams. But you're using +1 and -3 huh? The overlap on that isn't too much?

I usually don't see street cars w/ an exhaust cam retarded so much.

 

Thats what works for the Crower's I guess. Both Crower and Import Builders said retarding the exhaust 2-3 degrees would help. I'm not sure on the Skunk2's though.