no name vs brand name strut/tie bars...any difference?
i was about to buy the rest of my suspension today until somebody suggested to me to buy the no name stuff cuz it's all "the same".....they're metal bars, they all do the same thing right? call me hard headed or race biased, but i was still kinda iffy about the idea.....first of all there is a HUGE price difference the no name stuff is at the least three times cheaper than the brand name stuff....are we really only paying for the so called "name"? how about the quality? what do you guys think? does anybody have any experience with this whatsoever? any help is appreciated....
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
its a metal bar that connects 2 points together and stiffens the car. How much can they differ? Neuspeed has some interesting bars but just comparing two normal bars.... they are the same
the cheap kid has been working for me for over a year now and is stilll holding up i'd say go with the cheap one if its just street driven
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whoaitslen2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I kinna wish my ebay rear upper strut bar was one piece instead of 3.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A trip to the machine shop and $5 could fix that. Not that it matters though but if it make syou feel better.
Cheers,
Roy
</TD></TR></TABLE>A trip to the machine shop and $5 could fix that. Not that it matters though but if it make syou feel better.
Cheers,
Roy
depends on how you look at it, the more expensive stuff like dc and others is better quality, but for the huge price difference, you can get the cheaper front and rear, lower and upper for the price one front upper expensive one.
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friends old cheapos would squeak when ur turn hard... i like the multi point bars.. the ones that attach to ur towers and to ur firewall.. those look cool
The Neuspeed front stut tower bar is pretty good. It's a one piece design so it's not going to flex on you.
Everything else (upper rear, lower front and lower rear sway bars) I'd just get the cheap stuff. I've heard that the front upper tower bar makes the biggest difference.
Everything else (upper rear, lower front and lower rear sway bars) I'd just get the cheap stuff. I've heard that the front upper tower bar makes the biggest difference.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4gen4dr_sleeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go for neuspeed or DC sports. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
I have been running Skunk2 bars on my car and they are rock solid, they look exactly like the spoon so you know the design is good...
I have found the ebay bars to be useless, youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
I have been running Skunk2 bars on my car and they are rock solid, they look exactly like the spoon so you know the design is good...
I have found the ebay bars to be useless, youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
not really a big difference. i have noname front and rear uppers, and skunk2 tie bar, j.FOX trunk bar, and love the ride with koni yellows and skunk coils
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dupalala »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, you pulling on the bar and the forces the bar sees are 2 different things. The bar is compressed from the ends when the car is in motion, not tugged from the middle. The strength of even the cheapest bar is fine for a street car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dupalala »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, you pulling on the bar and the forces the bar sees are 2 different things. The bar is compressed from the ends when the car is in motion, not tugged from the middle. The strength of even the cheapest bar is fine for a street car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dupalala »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
Get something with no joints, a solid piece .. i.e. Mugen, Neuspeed, etc. You don't have to go and dish out the money for a Mugen, but a used neuspeed can be gotten for pretty cheap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dupalala »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
I have been running Skunk2 bars on my car and they are rock solid, they look exactly like the spoon so you know the design is good...
I have found the ebay bars to be useless, youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I gotta agree, I have Skunk2 front and rear upper as well as lower tie bars, and they are the most solid bars I have seen
Everyone stop saying DC sports... Next time you see one, grab it and shake hard, watch it bend... I guess thats what happens when you incorporate HOLES into your strut bar, and the tinyest endlinks ever designed
I have been running Skunk2 bars on my car and they are rock solid, they look exactly like the spoon so you know the design is good...
I have found the ebay bars to be useless, youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I gotta agree, I have Skunk2 front and rear upper as well as lower tie bars, and they are the most solid bars I have seen
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dupalala »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have found the ebay bars to be useless, youre better off getting a stock Si or GSR strut bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for the GSR strut bar, I'm actually using one on an ITR.
for the GSR strut bar, I'm actually using one on an ITR.
it apears to me that the bar with no joints would work the best. i personaly have been rockin the cheap'o, but it seems that having a single bolt on each side of the actual bar (not the mounts) would still allow it to move, unlike the ones with two bolts or no joints
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I gotta agree, I have Skunk2 front and rear upper as well as lower tie bars, and they are the most solid bars I have seen</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, me too.
Dont ever forget - "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR."
I gotta agree, I have Skunk2 front and rear upper as well as lower tie bars, and they are the most solid bars I have seen</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, me too.
Dont ever forget - "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR."
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