Anyone know where it talks about replacing the front rotors in the Helms manual? I assume this mainly consists of removing the calipers, and then just putting on a new rotor.

Any suggestions on this process or references to page in the Helms would be greatly appreciated! :-)

 

I dont' have my helms manual with me right now....

But, it should give you some details in the suspension chapter.

It's as simple as taking the two 17mm bolts off of the bracket on the backside of the rotor (i.e., take the caliper and bracket off as one piece), and taking out the screws (if there are any) on the rotors. That's it and that's all. Go in reverse order to put it back together, just dont put the screws in very tight. As far as torque specs on the caliper bracket bolts, I dont know. It's in the 30lb-ft range.... just tighten them real good.

Impact screwdrivers never seem to work right and drilling screws out is no fun.

 

Impact screwdrivers work fine! You just have to have something large and heavy to hit them with.

Last time, I did my brakes, I was hitting the impact driver with a friggin' brick which worked quite well. Hammers are hard to get to work on the impact driver since most hammers are too small and its hard to get a good hit with hammers.

-Larkin who has now added a brick to his tool collection.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EbboyPSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Impact screwdrivers work fine! You just have to have something large and heavy to hit them with.

Last time, I did my brakes, I was hitting the impact driver with a friggin' brick which worked quite well. Hammers are hard to get to work on the impact driver since most hammers are too small and its hard to get a good hit with hammers.

-Larkin who has now added a brick to his tool collection.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

impact screwdriver is a must if you have any rust, but for a brick I had no problem with a simple hammer--just takes nerves of steel or someone else holding the impact screwdriver

 

once you impact/drill the screws out, and the rotor is still stuck to the hub, screw a pair of 12x1.25 bolts into the holes not used by the screws - alternate tightening them a little bit at a time and it will pop the rotor off the hub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you impact/drill the screws out, and the rotor is still stuck to the hub, screw a pair of 12x1.25 bolts into the holes not used by the screws - alternate tightening them a little bit at a time and it will pop the rotor off the hub.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol....I must like hitting stuff instead of using actual tools.

For this I take a wood block and place it on the edge of the rotor and hit the block with a hammer rotating my inflection point between hits. This way, I don't ruin the rotor and it works fast

 

those two screws are sometimes a bitch to get out...

if so, PBBlaster the fockers... wait a few minutes, drink beer, then impact driver.

still doesn't work or if you strip the head, get screw extractor kit from pepboys ($3 a piece, you'll need 2nd or 3rd smallest size).

you still can't get it out, time to go dremel on them.

-yeah, I had to do all these once on an old Civic... took 3 hours for a 5-minutes job. hate those retaining screws!

 

F*ck, those screws are a bitch. I had the impact screwdriver, but maybe I am not sure it right?

I set it to loosen, and then hold it and pound the hell out of the thing, but nothing. Won't budge at all.

Can someone send me a link to a good impact screwdriver?

Any other tips/suggestions?

 

Drill the bitch, use a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw and pop the head off. Give the rotor a few whacks with a deadblow hammer, and if it doesnt budge, rummage your spare bolts box for a couple of 12x1.25's.

I dont even bother with an impact screwdriver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I set it to loosen, and then hold it and pound the hell out of the thing, but nothing. Won't budge at all.

Any other tips/suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, they are probably seized to hell. Did you strip the head yet? follow my steps above..

1. Impact (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 2)
2. Get PB Blaster (liquid wrench) Soak it for 20 min... impact again (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 3)
3. Get bolt extraction kit (pepboys or home depot). You just need a hammer + adj. wrench. (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 4)
4. If your head is just about stripped to hell, bust out a dremel... make the phillip bolt into a flat head bolt... get a big focking screw driver and twist it off. (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 5)
5. You're pretty much focked at this point, if it's still stuck in there. drive over to a mechanic, pay him $20 and have him fock with it.

-Sean

 

It's snap -on it must be good.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

 

Thats a shitload of effort where a drill will accomplish the same thing in 30 seconds flat. Buy new screws and anti-seize them if you want, or just shitcan them like i do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, they are probably seized to hell. Did you strip the head yet? follow my steps above..

1. Impact (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 2)
2. Get PB Blaster (liquid wrench) Soak it for 20 min... impact again (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 3)
3. Get bolt extraction kit (pepboys or home depot). You just need a hammer + adj. wrench. (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 4)
4. If your head is just about stripped to hell, bust out a dremel... make the phillip bolt into a flat head bolt... get a big focking screw driver and twist it off. (yes -&gt; you're done, no-&gt; go to step 5)
5. You're pretty much focked at this point, if it's still stuck in there. drive over to a mechanic, pay him $20 and have him fock with it.

-Sean</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Screws are overrated, it just makes it easier to change pads (don't have to watch rotor position).

Drill'em out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats a shitload of effort where a drill will accomplish the same thing in 30 seconds flat. Buy new screws and anti-seize them if you want, or just shitcan them like i do.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the way to go.

 

Ugh, finally got them. A friend got them in about 5 seconds. He showed me how to use the impact screwdriver; I wasn't using it correctly.

So new rotors are on.

Any tips for break-in on new rotors and used break pads (stock pads) ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onyx00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any tips for break-in on new rotors and used break pads (stock pads) ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

:fire:

 

head-up: Don't bother putting the damn screws back in. The rotors will be just fine w/o.

**solves problem of getting the same headache next time you need to switch rotors!

 

Use anti-seize on the screws if you use them.

But yeah, new rotors and used pads?

Find the post(s) about bedding brakes. Think it's 50-10 mph, 60 - 5 mph, 100-5 mph, then drive home, park with no e-brake, and let them cool to cold. Do not use the brakes if you can after the 100-5 until after you park it and it's cooled. A long fast drive with no brakes works for cooling too.

Check for the post tho, my memory could be faulty.